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you can buy various water proof momentary buttons from West Marine Boat Parts, Boat Accessories, Sailing Gear and Boating Apparel or search the Cole Hersee site and then give the part number to West Marine
I used long strips of double wall shrink tube from Waytek Inc, Home page to buy fuses, circuit breakers, cable ties, wire and other electrical supplies By Waytek Inc. I crimped and silver soldered marine terminals I used Ancor marine 12 gauge wire from West Marine The series line starts from a terminal placed on top of the battery terminal of the starter to the momentary button The other wire from the button runs back to the "start" starter terminal I didn't shrink the shrink tube tight around the wires. All you see is covered wires running along the bulkhead between the rear shock absorbers. It looks stock |
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I just bought a JT&T Starter Button rated at 60 AMPs also water proof I will mount it with Water proof ends and wire it in as soon as this weekend. My New Cable also came in so I will be replacing it and the Relay.
I also plan to check all of the fuses and relays in the Trunk to make sure none of them are involved! Thanks again for the suggestion and to make life easy when I need to turn the engine over without back & forth or a helper! Amazon.com: JT&T Products (2681F) - 60 AMP @ 12 Volt - 40 AMP @ 24 Volt, Extra Heavy-Duty Dust & Moisture Proof Momentary Starter with 5/8" Mounting Stem and Neoprene Cap |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1323386440.jpg |
Long Term Update. I replaced the Ground Wire at the Back of the car from the Transmisson to the Body, I replaced the Relay that uses the Yellow wire in the Smugglers Box AND I put in a 60 AMP Starter Button in the Engine compartment. Of course since I have done these things I have now never even had a HINT of a problem! I like the Big Starter Button because now when I work on the car and need to turn it over No Problem!.
BTW, My Starter Button looks like the one above |
with ignition on and using the engine comp starter button I turn off the radio and my CHT/EGT computer as accessories are still on line. Low voltage with starter engaged may cause a problem?
the ignition switch has accessories to a different leg than the "start" leg enjoy |
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I am getting a new battery for my van that has a bad cell. The only way you can tell is to use a Voltage meter on the battery and watch it while turning it over. I see the Voltage go from 12.4 to 10.3 volts which cause cause a problem! Thank you |
Interesting post. Three times over the past three days, once after sitting overnight, once after sitting two hours, I got the same hum from the starter. I've done zero testing so far, but on each occasion, letting the car roll seemed to fix the issue.
The first time, I pushed the car out of the spot, intending to use the slight incline to bump start the car. Getting back in the car, the key worked, so I didn't have to. The next time, I let it roll two inches backwards, tried the key again and it started. This morning, I let it roll two inches forward, and it started right up. I guess I'm actually doing three things. First, I'm releasing the hand brake. Second, letting it roll 2-3 inches. Third, I'm applying the brake to stop the roll. Puzzling. I put it on jack stands yesterday to look over for loose connections, etc., and everything looked normal and felt normal. This morning, it started first try, but I swear I heard a little of the "clicking solenoid" for half-a-second before it engaged and started. So brief, I barely noticed it. 1982 911SC |
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Easier than fussing with the OEM 2 part boot. |
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