door hinge creak fix...WOW

[jimtweet]

i just want to say thank you, i cant remember the thread i saw it in, but,..

i had a annoying creaking sound every time a door was opened, i replaced my door stays and still there,

i read somethere to drop a 6mm bolt and nut in instead of the pin and put a little pressure on it....

doors are SILENT!

thank you again Pelican for a great fix

[911_Dude]

Ill have to try that.

[john walker's workshop]

retighten as needed and keep some grease on the strap.

[jimtweet]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

retighten as needed and keep some grease on the strap.

greased the straps on installation of new stays,...put nylock nuts on, should be good, i cant believe that this worked,...i am so happy that noise is gone,...it was horrid sounding

[porschenut]

JW gets the credit. I saw that thread too.

[dshepp806]

Which year cars?

Thanks.

Doyle

[jimtweet]

Originally Posted by dshepp806

Which year cars?

Thanks.

Doyle

mine is 1980, i would imagine this would work for most years....

[Dave Colangelo]

Adding to my project list now...

[deeking55]

Anyone care to post a picture of this fix? How long does the 6M bolt need to be? I have the same problem but you know what they say about pictures....
cheers-

[john walker's workshop]

long enough so the nyloc nut can get it's nyloc part on the threads.

[deeking55]

I don't mean to sound ignorant, but this fix refers to the 2 large top and bottom silver hinge pins NOT the small center pin? Do the pins need any encouragement to come out or will they just swivel out?

jason

[john walker's workshop]

it's to replace the roll-pin that attaches the door check strap to the A-pillar.

[notmytarga]

Pictures would be helpful, before and after. I will provide same if no on else does.

But I mostly want to know, again, which way is the door stay installed? With the bow facing inboard/rearward or outboard/forward. I would hate for pictures to be backwards! I think I searched and found out the right way, but before I go public I want to make sure. I managed to take mine off without noting that and they seem to fit and work both ways - but being asymmetrical, there must be a right way. I too have that SNAP/creak and no amount of lube on the arm or re-securing or reinforcing seems to help. If a bolt instead of the pin does it it would be great.

I'm thinking a 6Mx10 mm bolt, maybe hex drive if in stock at ACE, with matching nylock, anyone disagree? I "upgraded" my mud flaps from screws to similar attachments a while back and life is better.

[john walker's workshop]

the curve faces outward. this one happened to be in my shop. damage from a previous check strap failure. the bolt is 6x18 or 20.

[deeking55]

OK, for lack of any proper description this is what I thought we were referring to. Thank you John.

jason

[deeking55]

So...., how does one remove the roll pin? I have the parts and know what needs to be fixed, but the pin is stuck fast. Do you hammer it out, vice grips or what?
thanks again-

[jimtweet]

Originally Posted by deeking55

So...., how does one remove the roll pin? I have the parts and know what needs to be fixed, but the pin is stuck fast. Do you hammer it out, vice grips or what?
thanks again-

pull up on the pin and wiggle the door in and out a bit, it will come loose, mine came right out...just pulled it out with my fingers

[john walker's workshop]

use a small ball peen hammer to carefully get it moving until it's flush with the tab. then finish the job with a punch.

[Nine9six]

Some masking tape above and below the clevis will help prevent chipping the paint in the jamb, when using a hammer on the pin/punch.

[74threeliter]

YES! i finally found the post that may bring an end to that loud 'POP' everytime the door fully opened. thanks in advance.