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Replacing oil line hoses

I know I have read different posts about people having the flexible part of their oil thermostat to tank/engine hoses replaced by hydraulic shops. I need to do both of mine and want to save some money but also want to make sure this is not in the "bad idea" category. What would the maximum pressure be within these hoses? Please comment on your experiences etc. Thanks

Old 03-02-2009, 12:05 PM
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+1 would like to know
Old 03-02-2009, 12:55 PM
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if you figure this out could you post? this would be useful info to know
Old 03-02-2009, 12:55 PM
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According to my spec book, the working pressure of the 32mm OD hose is 18 bar with a bursting pressure of 100 bar.

Smaller diameters have a higher capacity.

Hope this helps.

Len@autosportengineering.com

Old 03-02-2009, 01:40 PM
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I make up replacement hoses where I work at Auto Sport using your original hose ends as shown below:

The original assy leaking at the big end.............


and the repaired assy.........


Here's another showing old hose vs new............



Len@autosportengineering.com


Last edited by BoxsterGT; 03-02-2009 at 01:52 PM..
Old 03-02-2009, 01:50 PM
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BoxsterGT

Thanks for the great pics.

Could you enlighten us on what types of shops typically do this sort of thing. I am located in Fresno, CA and obviously would like to do the same thing the above members are asking for but would like to do it locally.

If we had an idea from someone like you we may be able to find local shops that can help. I just have no idea who to call and/or ask for a fix. Mine seep as well. Very Annoying.

Thanks,
Bryan
Old 03-02-2009, 03:48 PM
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Look for someone who does heavy equipment hydraulic repair. In Washington we use Williams Oil Filter. Strange name but they are a hydro and hose fitting shop who sells automotive stuff. If you know anyone in the following businesses they may know where the get fittings and hoses custom made.
Heavy Equipment guys (backhoes, etc)
Rental shops who need to replace hoses and stuff on some of their equipment
Car Washes have air driven and hydro driven motors and such that need repaired.

This is definitely the way to go. You often get custom hoses for way less than dealer replacements.
Old 03-02-2009, 10:38 PM
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The only pressure lines on the engine are the cam lines and the MFI feed line.
All the other lines are flow lines off the scavange side pump to the filter or to the pump from the tank.

Bruce
Old 03-03-2009, 02:33 AM
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Just take the hose in to the hydraulic shop and stress to them that you only want the rubber and crimps replaced. My experience was the guys at first get hung up on it being metric, for a Porsche..... Also, they should know but be sure they get the ends clocked correctly.
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:22 AM
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I have never been able to convince any of the hydraulic shops around the san francisco area to redo my hoses. They all want to order new fittings and then they can't get it. So I end up buying the new hose assemblies from some on line place.
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:47 AM
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These guys did mine in about 30 minutes and did a nice job. They can also do steel braided if you want. Its true you need to stress that the connectors can be reused on these, they will see that once the hose is cut open.

http://www.pirtekusa.com/

Quote:
The only pressure lines on the engine are the cam lines and the MFI feed line.
All the other lines are flow lines off the scavange side pump to the filter or to the pump from the tank.
There is a lot of pressure in the line to the front cooler thermostat before it opens. I have had mine blow when the motor was cold and based on the amount of oil loss I would say there was some pretty good pressure behind it.

Last edited by jjrowe; 03-03-2009 at 11:18 AM..
Old 03-03-2009, 11:10 AM
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It's the low pressure side of the pump. It will probably not see more than 40 or 50 psi (at which point the pressure relief valve in the thermostat should bypass the oil cooler).

I used -16AN braided hose and 2 plain old hose clamps per fitting. Works just fine.
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:16 AM
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Seek out diesel injection shops, heavy equipment hydraulic shops, etc. Around here the local CAT dealer (well ok, it is the largest CAT dealer in the world) has a well-equipped hose shop. I use a diesel injection place here in town that is ok w/rebuilding hoses using the original fittings. The hose is very expensive, but the labor is minimal - they usually do them while I wait if they're not busy.

They'll giggle when you mention the pressures you need to run. Doesn't even register on their meter.
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:33 AM
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I will sell the crimp sleeves & the hose per meter if you want to have it done locally. However I don't think the USA crimp machines are correct for crimping the Metric hose ends. Mine cost me about $10k out of Germany 20 yrs ago.

I do keep in stock braided SS hose in Metric and AN sizes.

Email me for a quote.

Len@autosportengineering.com


Last edited by BoxsterGT; 03-04-2009 at 01:40 AM..
Old 03-03-2009, 12:56 PM
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Well great success to report. As stated by others, both the hydraulic shops I visited looked at the job, heard Porsche and said no way. When I went back to the second shop and politely pressured the guy, he rose to the challenge and did it with a steel reinforced hose that makes the original look mickey mouse. Those ferrules on the end are really trick and so is the machine the crimps them. It's not visible in the pictures but the are about a 8 side flat crimps that holds that hose very nicely. So, the whole job was $50.00 and some Tremclad silver to dress up the pipe and away we go. Special thanks to Len for saying it could be done and offering to sell just the parts.












Old 03-06-2009, 02:56 PM
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brighton911-

Just wondering how your rebuilt oil line has worked out.

I saw this one a while back............



but forgot to ask about it. It also has the long crimp sleeves and shows sign of failure.

I know for certain that fuel lines crimped with the long sleeves are starting to fail, and I wonder how the oil hoses are holding up.

Len

Old 01-20-2012, 07:28 AM
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I don't see how the straight ferrules can work - there is a lip as part of the fitting that slips into the hose, and it seems a straight ferrule would crush the hose wall against said lip, weakening it in a really bad spot.

Either the factory style crimps, which have clearance for the lip, or plain old hose clamps, which don't clamp on top of the lip either, would seem the only solution to me.
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Old 01-20-2012, 02:51 PM
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Here's what has happened with the fuel hose crimps being too long.......





The first photo in this post looks a lot like the oil hose photo in my previous post.

Len



Last edited by BoxsterGT; 03-09-2012 at 05:51 AM..
Old 01-24-2012, 06:08 AM
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