Um, am I missing a bolt here?
 

Just me, or is this a conspicuously open hole on the axle/CV assembly... (as a matter of honor, I didn't do that, I'm the newbie trying to sort her out after rescuing her)


http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...issingbolt.jpg

Oh my, YES!

It appears it had the Scorse (whatever it is called) washer but seems like it did not work.

When you replace, re-torque all bolts after 500 miles in a star pattern.

Fun eh? I'm thinking I'll fix this before driving her again.

Any idea on the size/thread? Or should I pull one of the ones actually there and match it up?

Sure you didn't we won't tell :-P JKD

What year is your car? I can't tell what trans you have by the pic.

She is a 1974, looks like 900-067-211-09 from the Porsche catalog.

Any reason not to pull one and make sure it matches up? I'm specifically asking since she has a 3.2 in her and with all the stuff I am finding, well who the hell knows what else has been done.

That would be the safest way, just measure and order a couple/several in case you round the hex on one or two while torquing the rest

Jim

I ordered what i thought was the correct size for my year only to find out the trans was from an earlier year so the bolts did not match, lucky Pelicans exchanged it for me :D

74 is suposed to have 4 10mm bolts and those look like 8mm so the hubs are installed to match the halfshafts.

Pulling one is a good idea. You will get length from it.

There are two sizes used: M8x1.25, and M10xsomething. So easy to tell which is which by putting a spare bolt of known diameter in that hole. If a 10 won't fit, it is an 8.

There are 4 bolt CVs, and 6 bolt CVs. The 4 bolters have two dowel pins, making them sort of 6s. I think all the 4 bolters used 10mm bolts. And I think the '74 came with these.

If it was just an engine swap, with the transmission original to the '74, you should be good with '74 parts. With tranny swaps you run into issues getting the CVs to match the output flanges on the tranny. And changing output flanges runs into coarse vs fine spline issues. And so on. But just an engine install ought not to affect the tranny and CVs.

The toothed washers are Schnorr (?sp) washers. I think getting proper torque, and retorquing after some running miles, are the most important factors in keeping these bolts in place.

Fixed - turns out I have the 6 bolt M8x1.25 assembly.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...bolt-fixed.jpg

Now just for everything else - ha.

Really appreciate the help guys!

Hey, not for nothing but is that a zip tie on the CV boot? :eek:

May I recommend a metal tie at a minimum you can get a a FLAPS or even the proper CV boot metal tie???

Man the PO is a real POS???

BTW, where you located???

OK, now that hack I do need to take responsibility for.

None of the boots had ties of any sort! I realized that there was no tie or strap on the boots when I pulled started digging into the torsion bar re-indexing, so those are temporary so I can drive her and make sure the ride height is correct over the next couple of days.

So I'll address those with proper metal ties soon. I also found a partially crimped brake line while I was back there as well. Fun....

I'm in Orange County, Irvine. You are SoCal as well, yes?

Wow Tom. You have been busy. I had the same thing happen: I was under my car a couple of months ago checking the trans fluid when I noticed that three of the 6 allens had backed their way out on the driver's inside CV. I locktited and re-torqued.

Lots to do still John, lots!

I've seen mechanics use zip ties on the CV boots (the small end). I don't think it is a problem - is it?

I have a zip tie on mine. It has lasted ten years.

I zip tie mine. Works fine.

In fact, I use universal replacement boots, which also have to attach around the boot flange up at the CV. I hold these on with zip ties also. I've got plenty of those steel bands from replacement boots, but they are enough of a pain to deal with, and to remove, that I'd not think of using them again. And the zips are so convenient.

Actually, as long as the rubber in that area is tight, you really don't need anything. Think about it - the grease wants to be spun radially by centrifical force. No force of any significance is trying to force them out sideways.

A nice thing to do, before tightening the zip, is to insert half of one of the red tubes you get with your brake clean or carb clean spray cans. The idea here (from Carroll Smith, RIP), is that any air pressure created as the axle moves axially (in and out) will be equalized through this tube. It works. Or, at a minimum, it does not create a path for grease to leak or squirt out.