What's wrong with this picture? aka clutch setup

[osidak]

Trying to get my clutch setup. I have been looking in the Haynes Manual and also the 101 projects book and none have a very clear picture of how the throw out arm and spring are supposed to be setup. Below is a picture of how I have it setup but no matter what I do the pedal drops almost to the floor before I feel any resistance. I have a feeling something is hooked up wrong.



I have also included a photo of the adjustment on the cable. I have adjust to both sides of the spectrum.



Again any help is welcome

[stormcrow]

Try turning in that little bolt with the locknut on it. I believe that will take up the slack. I'll have to look at mine to see how it was adjusted and should be able to give you more info.

Steve
78 911 Targa

[osidak]

thanks stormcrow looking forward to hearing from you

[john walker's workshop]

pry apart the two levers with a screwdriver to take up any slop, remove the screwdriver and adjust the bolt between the levers so you feel just a bit of clearance. then, the nuts on the cable sheath are adjusted to take most of the slack out of the cable. the latter adjustment pulls the pedal up. fine tune the pedal height (release point) from there.

[bruboy]

I recently did a strip down of the clutch levers and omega spring as per the 101 book as my clutch was very heavy. I had the same problem with the pedal going to the floor after re- assembly, and adjusted the slack as described in the earlier post. However I did not check the total cable pull, I think this is around 25mm or so, Sorry to say my clutch let go some 20 miles later with the pedal permanently to the floor, I had to be towed home!! . It could be that the clutch was about to go anyway, but to be safe I recommed you check the cable pull

Bruce 83 sc

[john walker's workshop]

you might also check the roll pin that holds the clutch pedal to it's shaft. they deteriorate and allow the pedal to get closer to the floor in spite of having the cable adjusted properly. the lever inside the tunnel, that the cable attaches to should be angled back just like the pedal arm. if the pedal is forward and the lever is back, that might be the problem. (they're on the same shaft).

[MikeB]

I just got through replacing my perfectly good 17 yr old cable with a new one. Adjusted per specs, 1.2mm and 1.0 mm clearance at the adjusting bolt. However, after a few cycles of the clutch, the clearance is gone. I have reset the clearances over and over, still goes to zero clearance after a few cycles. Clutch feel fine, doesn't drag or grab. Could it be that the positioning lever spring has lost is spring???

[stormcrow]

Ok, took a look at my adjusting nut. First off, the lock nut on that bolt is on the wrong side. Back it out and screw it through the arm and install the lock nut on the other side.

Once you do that, turn the bolt in until about two threads are showing before it bottoms out. Tighten the lock nut and see if that doesn't solve the problem.

Steve.

[stormcrow]

Relocate this nut to the other side.

Steve

[MikeB]

Steve
Mine is as Osidak's photo, which is the same as all of the Bentley photos... not sure that it really matters, as long as you have some clearance between the positioning lever and the stop. Now if only mine had some clearance...

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Baseadjusrment from that screw is turn it in untill it touches the lever and then turn it back a 90° turn.

After that set your cable with the 15mm nuts. Your (new) clutch cable is at the lower end and has still way to adjust. It will strech over the years

Grüsse

[stormcrow]

This is a pic of mine. Sorry for the blue color. It looks like my adjusting arm is farther aft towards the exhaust cross over.

[MBAtarga]

Hey Stormcrow and MikeB,

Steve, I agree with MikeB as to the placement of the locknut on the bolt. Looks like for your car, the cable adjustment allows the nut on the other side.

MikeB, could your problem be caused by the black tube (I believe this is called the Bowden tube) not being tight against the tunnel wall. If not tight, I could see how a couple of cable flexes could move the tube and therefore knock the adjustment out again.

[gblumenstock]

Is the helper spring in the right position? When I replaced mine, it was tight up to the heat exchanger (almost touching). You may have to pull on the lever arm to get the spring to pop back.

Hope this helps,

Gb

[MikeB]

Mark
Bowden cable is tight against the firewall. It is interesting/disturbing that after setting the gap to spec, cycling the clutch, the gap goes to zero... and that I can continue to loosen the bolt to the point of it almost falling out. Still no gap. But, reset the horseshoe spring, reset the gap, voila. I am still wondering if the positioning spring just isn't strong enough to pull/ keep the lever in its proper place, thus keeping the gap to spec.

[osidak]

From looking at the picture of mine vs stormcrows helper spring his appears closer to the heat exchanger. I just don't see any other way to put it together. I will try again tomorrow. I got stuck in the yard all day today so didn't get much done.

keep on making suggestions thanks

[gblumenstock]

Hey!!!! Your helper spring looks damaged. I see rust and some of the spring is missing. I think that you need to replace the spring. You will find that the pressure to engage/disengage your clutch will go down by 5 times. It will feel like a new car.

GB