buying a rebuilt wur

[56 nomad]

hi ,
has anyone purchased a wur from Delorean Auto Parts.....what was your experience. they have them for 239 with exchange. .any place elese i should check?
thanks , ben

[jim fling]

If the heater in your WUR is OK you might consider rebuilding yours. There is a very good tech article here somewhere. I did mine and it seems to work fine. It just took carb cleaner and an O ring. It may need adjustment but a rebuild unit would also need that.

[Scott R]

I have, you mean special-T auto correct? The one I had didn't work for very long and they were not helpful in exchanging it. I have one from Brian Lesak (sp) now, it works very well, is fully adjustable and comes with excellent instructions.

[56 nomad]

Originally Posted by Scott R

I have, you mean special-T auto correct? The one I had didn't work for very long and they were not helpful in exchanging it. I have one from Brian Lesak (sp) now, it works very well, is fully adjustable and comes with excellent instructions.

scott two questions, how do i get a hold of brian and when i was reading my ohm meter set at 200 i get a reading of 9.4 is this good or is the wur defective.

[Scott R]

Originally Posted by 56 nomad

scott two questions, how do i get a hold of brian and when i was reading my ohm meter set at 200 i get a reading of 9.4 is this good or is the wur defective.

His contact info from when I ordered mine is as follows

13243 Waltham Ave
Poway CA 92064
930wur@cox.net

I believe the normal range of ohms is about 30+ on a good heating element. Maybe some other folks will chime in. When I lost my heating element on one of mine it was an open circuit.

Also another member here that does them, R8rlylate? or something like that, hear a lot of good things about those as well.

[56 nomad]

Originally Posted by jim fling

If the heater in your WUR is OK you might consider rebuilding yours. There is a very good tech article here somewhere. I did mine and it seems to work fine. It just took carb cleaner and an O ring. It may need adjustment but a rebuild unit would also need that.

jim did a search but could not find the link my wur is reading 9.4 with the ohms test so it may be the problem..any thought on that link? ben

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by 56 nomad

jim did a search but could not find the link my wur is reading 9.4 with the ohms test so it may be the problem..any thought on that link? ben

Ben,

First let us know what engine/model you have. US models differ from RoW/Euro models in many ways. State the WUR Bosch ID number currently installed in the car. Do you have a late SC CIS? If you do, I have an inkling that the WUR could still be good. Keep us posted.

Tony

[56 nomad]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Ben,

First let us know what engine/model you have. US models differ from RoW/Euro models in many ways. State the WUR Bosch ID number currently installed in the car. Do you have a late SC CIS? If you do, I have an inkling that the WUR could still be good. Keep us posted.

Tony

tony,
1983 sc us model 3 liter the number on the wur is 090 45.
thanks ben

[RarlyL8]

Yes we handle CIS rebuilds and modifications for 911 and 930. Your '83 should have a -089 or -090 WUR. We're doing an adjustable -045 for a race car right now. Specs on those are set to match the fuel head (if modified) and engine output. Shoot me an email if interested. Thanks -

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by 56 nomad

tony,
1983 sc us model 3 liter the number on the wur is 090 45.
thanks ben

Ben,

If your car is an '83 SC US model, the WUR should have these Bosch markings...0-438-140-090. Could you post the complete ID number? My guess was correct that you would have a late SC car from the description of the heating resistance value. I would not dispose the WUR unless you have done a WUR test and confirm it is defective. You could test the WUR without even running the engine just the FP. Keep us posted.

Tony

[56 nomad]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Ben,

If your car is an '83 SC US model, the WUR should have these Bosch markings...0-438-140-090. Could you post the complete ID number? My guess was correct that you would have a late SC car from the description of the heating resistance value. I would not dispose the WUR unless you have done a WUR test and confirm it is defective. You could test the WUR without even running the engine just the FP. Keep us posted.

Tony

tony , how would i test it differently as i used the ohm meter and got reading of 9.4..after doing more research and speaking with other pelicans they have said it might be aav or aar related...just trying to sort the short high idle and then low idle until it warms up...if i advance the timing it is less of an issue..........seems many of us have this problem. thanks , ben

[Scott R]

Originally Posted by 56 nomad

tony , how would i test it differently as i used the ohm meter and got reading of 9.4..after doing more research and speaking with other pelicans they have said it might be aav or aar related...just trying to sort the short high idle and then low idle until it warms up...if i advance the timing it is less of an issue..........seems many of us have this problem. thanks , ben

He means to test the control pressures I believe. That's the best way to check for a functional WUR. You can buy the test gauge from Pelican, or maybe since you're in SoCal borrow one from another member. It's really best to do this, it eliminates the guess work in testing the entire system.