Very interested in how the conversion goes. I have a 74 with wind up windows as well and my arms are getting a little bit of a work out day in and day out!

Did anyone ever end up weighing both the power window components vs the manual window components? There has to be a difference!

Manual Window Mechanisms
 

I backdated. My 74 had electric windows which were so slow that I thought they would not make it, in fact the passenger side sometimes would stall. I bought used manual window mechanism and replaced the electric ones with them. At the same time I put in all new felts in the channels. I like them and they help make it my version of what a 911 with no bling should be (all of the power is the engine, i.e. no power windows, mirrors, no sunroof, no air conditioning, no radio - the one concession is a set of leather electric seats out of a 95 Carrera). My car is a combination of 70s, 80s, and 90s parts, which make up what I wanted my 'outlaw' to be. The windows work with minimal effort and I do not mind the exercise of the left arm. Of course I had to change the upholstery on the doors, and Robert Budd made me new stuff. Note that he even covered the door handle, the map pocket lid and the top trim piece with stitched leather.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1360418300.jpg

The weight savings was just a couple of pounds per door, but 7 pounds savings is supposed to equate to a horsepower, so that is my 2 cents worth.

My own philosophy is remove the a/c, add power windows. Voila: weight savings.

Just completed conversion on the '72 I am building. Even in '72, all the holes are present to snake the harness from the rear of the trunk through to the door hinge area and thence to the door shell itself.

The old parallel-arm mechanism is quite a bit heavier than the later 3-arm mechanism. So if converting from manual parallel arm to electric 3-arm, you will save weight.

Yeah, it's been done several times. If you have early power windows, you can figure in the neighborhood of around 7 lbs. It's a little more than that if you use the newer style regulators. If you have a later car with the later style power windows, the savings is a little less.

JR

If anyone has a set of manual window regulators for sale or trade for a power set I would be interested.

I have these for sale:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/732426-fs-manual-window-regulators.html

I don't need a set of power regulators, as I also have a pair of those.

JR

Does anybody know what the thread is for the winder on the manual regulator?

I tried an M4 and a M5 screw but don't think it either of these.

I think the part number is 911 542 475 00 called a conical screw but seems a bit silly to put an order in just for two screws unless they are special!

Thanks

M5 x .8mm works on the later style regulators. Don't know which ones you have.

JR

Thanks JR - The end thread was damaged so that's why it didn't take it at first & I didn't want to force it.

I ran a tap down it just enough to clear the first thread & all seems good.

I'm car-sitting my buddies 64 C2 Corvette for 2 years - I drive it, do all the repairs and keep it clean. He and I are happy. It has manual windows and manual vent windows and I love it! Simple, light, easy to fix. I have power windows in my 87 Carrera and its slow, makes more noise than it should. Motors are expensive. If it had crank windows, i would be very happy.

Have a body shop replace all of the felts in the window frames. It is a job as the frames have to come out of the doors and the glass too. However old felts get hard as bricks and stall the windows. New felts are like new motor. Ask how I know.

daleflesburg
How do you know?

Because my 74 would almost not raise or lower the windows, and as recommended by a local body shop, we had the felts replaced. It was like the motors were replaced. The windows work great now.

To demonstrate, carefully wet the felts with water. It will soften them enough to give you an idea of how much they are binding the windows.

Frankly,,the PW are a PITA and subject to hours of fun trying to stop binding..I assume the motors are not very strong and any slight bind is enough to cause performance issues
, I am trying to source manual regulators to revert back from power.. if anyone has a set for a 77 Targa..please let me know

You asked for advice.

1. Are doing it for weight savings? Electric motors are not light. Don't do it.

2. Is future reliability a concern? You will most likely be installing used motors. Don't do it.

The 911 cockpit is relatively narrow and power windows are not necessary IMO.

If I forgot to say it. Don't do it. :)

after two hours of working on the passenger side electric window I have determine that I would like to convert back to manual. Once the panels were off I could see that the windows were converted by the PO to the kit that Brian suggested (BLEE)...if any one has this conversion as well...

1

oops..all thumbs

1 Can these be reverted back to manual winders simply be removing the kit?..my reversion could be as simple as replacement winders?
2 Could my culprit be where the cable slips over the original winder?
3 Whats the best way to "get inside" the door to rectify..or is only option small hands and bandaids?

Sorry to dig this thread up...looking into "modern" power windows for my Blasphemy Build. What kit is this Blee?