Searching for Patch Panels for Early 911???

LastDeadLast · 07-27-2001, 05:24 AM

Does anyone out there make patch panels for the early 911s (specifically 1968)? I have managed to find internal sheetmetal... but it seems that fenders are very hard to find, if not impossible.

wouldn't bother me to put reproduction stuff on it either.

Thanks in advance,
Shannon

dtw · 07-27-2001, 06:24 AM

What exactly are you looking for? That's very important b/c it will define where you look. Restoration Design makes great sheetmetal reproductions. They require finish work, but nothing painful.

Other items such as front fenders, I have found after extensive research, it is much better to hunt for a quality used pair. "New" stuff from Porsche doesn't really fit well. Some have said they are factory 2nds, others have said they are not made with the original tooling. Everyone agrees they're not right. The only other option is glass and they fit even worse.

And some weird stuff, you just have to fabricate yourself. Tell me about your needs, I know just about every square inch of sheetmetal on early 911s now- I'm restoring a '72 rustbucket.

Welcome to the board.

-d

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

Rustbucket · 07-27-2001, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by dtw:
I know just about every square inch of sheetmetal on early 911s now- I'm restoring a '72 rustbucket.

Welcome to the board.

-d

Hey! That's my line.

Clint
73T mfi coupe

[This message has been edited by Rustbucket (edited 07-27-2001).]

LastDeadLast · 07-27-2001, 06:51 AM

Well... I found a 68 911L.. the odometer has 33000 miles on it (for what thats worth), The trunk looks to be in great shape as the other structural members of the car, but bottom of all the fenders is just terrible. Also.. it seems that at one time the drivers side fender had been hit and very sloppily repaired. If given the choice between new metal and my own fabrication, I'd rather get new stuff (mainly because the lack of my metal fabricating skills, I can do the motor/mechanical work, but I like to have other, more talented people do the bodywork). I am basically looking for: drivers side front fender, and lower patch panels for all the others. Also the turn signal lens mounts are a little rusted (but not unusable) it would be great if someone made weldin replacements for those too (I realize that I may be dreaming here).

I have seen the restoration design website and they have some good stuff at reasonable prices, but they don't list fender repair panels.

I probably realize that I could buy a great version of the 911 and probably save money in the long run, but I'm one of those nuts that actually like doing this type of work (it's therapy).

Thanks for the help Dave,
Shannon

Rot 911 · 07-27-2001, 06:54 AM

Also try Doc & Cy's. I've had very good luck with ordering parts from them and their prices are very reasonable. They have an online catalog at: http://www.docncys.com/catalog1/911-912sheet.htm

Kurt V
72 911E

dtw · 07-27-2001, 07:37 AM

Shannon,
Hey! A '68L is something of a unique car. Congrats on your find. Do you think it is 33k or 133k? Hehehe.

There are no patch panels for front fenders that I am aware of, other than headlight buckets and YES, turn signal frames. I know Doc'n'Cy's, Pelican, and RD do not have them. Check Tweeks and Performance Products, I believe one or both of them does. It is probably a factory part.

It sounds as though your fender needs a fair bit of work. If the fender bottoms are in bad shape, it's a good bet that the perpendicular flange inside the fender used to bolt it up to the flange on the body ahead of the door jamb is also rusty. All that can be repaired, but it is probably less of a headache to just find a new (used) fender. Places to start: (don't just search, also post "WTB" ads everywhere)

-Pelican classifieds
-Rennlist classifieds
-PCA regional online classifieds
-PCA Panorama "Mart" (in monthly publication)
-Excellence classifieds

You're in Charlotte- that's cool, I'm in Raleigh. Where's the car from? The rust you describe is often from salt spray/garbage from northern climates getting deposited inside the fenders and rockers, initiating rot. On the other hand, your suspension pan sounds fine. Must just be some old age damage.

-d

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

LastDeadLast · 07-27-2001, 08:21 AM

Everyone, thanks for all the help.

Dave I looked are your webpage... interesting stuff your doing there... Thats the kind of treatment the 68 L needs.

Right now the car is in a warehouse in VA. from what my research has informed me, the car hasn't been driven 10 miles since 1980. I can keep the car in VA indefinetly, so storage isn't an issue.

What I probably need to do is rip it apart, just like you did, bring the shell down to Charlotte and have the work done on it (stripped, dipped and rust repair, etc), then slowly reassemble it. Originality is not a major concern here either.

I haven't decided to buy the car yet.. one of my good friends owns it, and I'm still debating if I want to get into this mess.

Where did you get all the work done on the shell? It almost looks like they could fabricate most of my needs based on what I saw on your web page.

-Shannon

warment · 07-27-2001, 08:34 AM

Check out Restoration Design for metal...

http://www.restoration-design.com/index1.html

Check out Rennspeed for fiberglass...

http://www.wholesaler-usa.com/rennspeed/

Bill

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William Armentrout
1973 911T
2.7 carerra rs specs
www.geocities.com/william_armentrout

dtw · 07-27-2001, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by LastDeadLast:

What I probably need to do is rip it apart, just like you did, bring the shell down to Charlotte and have the work done on it (stripped, dipped and rust repair, etc), then slowly reassemble it. Originality is not a major concern here either.

Shannon, it's a tough call to hand strip, sandblast, or dip. Ultimately, budget, and condition of the car, determine this. Unless you have pervasive rust over most of the car, you will probably not need to dip. Dipping opens up a whole new can of worms; you've got to take critical steps after dipping to make sure the leftover base solution in the seams doesn't turn into a "chemical time bomb" of alkaline salts. What are your goals for the car, or do you know yet? If you are going to do a restoration to more or less original specs, that's one thing- if not, you can get crazy with it like I'm doing.

Quote:

I haven't decided to buy the car yet.. one of my good friends owns it, and I'm still debating if I want to get into this mess.

Quote:

Have you actually inspected the car yet? If not, or if you want a 2nd opinion, I can arrange to check the car out. JPNovak (another Pelican guy and good friend of mine) just moved to DC and would probably be able to check it out with me. We do a helluva body inspection- done 3 or 4 pre-74 911s this year alone.

Quote:

Where did you get all the work done on the shell? It almost looks like they could fabricate most of my needs based on what I saw on your web page.

Quote:

The shop I used lost their good body man. Much of the work they did was great, some other crucial work was unbelievably bad. I'm just now halfway done fixing their bungled work on my cowl/windshield gutters. I ended up just deciding to teach myself bodywork with the aforementioned JPNovak. There are some GREAT shops down where you are. I'd check with Carolina Speedworks; they do amazing things with race cars; they might do restoration work. Also consider G&W Motorwerkes in VA, they are Manhattan trophy winners.

Bill- how do you like the Rennspeed panels? I'm ordering from them soon. Lotta finish work or not so much?

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

LastDeadLast · 07-27-2001, 09:34 AM

Dave,

I just got back last night from giving it my first inspection. The floorpans and trunk are in excellent shape.. the interior is nearly flawless... but the carpet has mostly rotted. The only rust I saw was on the outer body, which was worse than I thought it would be based on the verbal description. The bad part of that is that everything that I need is mostly unavailable through the aftermarket (I'm used to my Mustangs where I can just buy a quarter panel if I need one).

I have historically messed with old Mustangs (I've had 4), and I have come to know a few very talented body shops in the area because of that... I don't have many Porsche contacts though. If you know of any in the Charlotte area, I would be greatful for the info.

At this point I need think I need to decide if I want to sink the time and money into this little car. I had actually planned to do a first-class resto-mod over a period of years, so time and money really isn't an issue. So I guess that questions is solved. But I do want a car that; A.) I can get parts for and B.) thats not a basket case to begin with.

Thanks,
Shannon

addictionMS · addictionMS's Garage

I am right in the middle of building a race car out of a 1968 chassis, and I can tell you it is tough. There is little out there that will work in a short wheelbase car, front suspesnion is OK, but the rear is not. As a result I have started the conversion to a long wheelbase and plan on installing a 1988 rear. I had it all cleaned up and ready to go last night only to find out the geometry of the rear in a 68 is different, so this weekends project is to cut/grind off the bannana arm pickup points on my torsion tube, and replace with those I am getting off a later model car. Royal pain, but I am now so far into this chassis that there is no turn around. I have the 10pt cage in, the fuelcell in, the relocated oil tank, etc all complete.

So my advice is unless you are really in love with the idea of a short wheelbase car, get a 69 or later, life will be much easier.

dtw · 07-27-2001, 03:39 PM

Shannon-
Parts availability is still pretty good, if not expensive for some of the weird parts. Unfortunately '68 has some unique-to-the-year interior parts, so make sure not to toss any of 'em when you restore the inside- keep them and recover them. Otherwise you will hemorrhage $$$. Fenders are the major hard-to-replace items for the early cars. After 74 fenders are pretty easy to come by.

MS makes a good point- are you aware of the suspension differences? Up through '68 are the so-called short wheelbase cars, then came the revised suspension in '69. If you want to build a race car or do serious body mods (like flaring the rear end) it's going to give a serious headache. I knew someone working on flaring a '68 and they just said "screw it" and tossed the car (was a MAJOR bucket anyway).

If this car really has 33k, and has really been stored that long, then it may just have rusty fenders and some other bits and pieces needing work. I'd be interested to see some pics.

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Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/