rear sway bar mod SWB
 

all;
ran a search but came up empty. if this has been covered, please kindly direct me to the appropriate thread. I'm getting ready to mod my '66 to accomodate a rear bar. I'm trying to locate the perchs on the tub. is there a template for this?
any help appreciated.
TIA
jerry

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328158686.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328158700.jpg

Attach them to the bar and mock that up, then tack the brackets in place.

Danger Will Robinson!

Those are later (74) consoles... the earlier cars had different sheet metal and a different shaped consle which matches the contour of the sheet metal.

I thought of that too, but i'm not clear on how & where the drop links mount. control arm ? spring plate ? different manufacturers use different points. I don't care for the adaptors i've seen & have no intent of going that route.

understood. when I first bought these I didn't know there was a difference. I've since seen SWB consoles & don't think I'd use them as they seem awfully light duty. the later ones need to be spaced in from the bulkhead about 1/4 " - 3/8" per side. the early ones don't seem like they make up this mismatch either. (not sure this is making sense) I'll post some pix on what I've done so far.

Stock ones mount using twisted metal strap drop links with a ball and socket on the banana arm (there is a protrusion from the arm that has a ball on it and the socket is a bushing that fits into the drop link).

Aftermarket usually mount to the spring plate using a substitute bolt. Weltmeister has a special eccentric bolt that replaces the stock one and has an extension on the backside to mount their drop links.

Ed Mayo did a thread on the Early S Board updating a SWB.

I will see if I can find the link.

looks like here;

rear sway bar install

there is still some lack of clarity & i may need to decide what product i want to use & do the mock up with that. there doesn't seem to be a template for where to mount the consoles.

pix of my modified consoles.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328757725.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328757754.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328757782.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328757802.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328757826.jpg

Your mount is too high. In that position, the sway bar is going to intersect the trans mount.

Use your bar to help position.

swb rear sway bar
 

Your 66 911 rear trailing arms do not have the ball fitting for the drop link to mount to for a factory swaybar. The ball end pins are available from Porsche and require some careful measuring and lay out work before welding. Your trailing arms will have to be drilled to accept the pins, if you go with the factory setup. Can get you the part# if you need it.

Forgot to mention that the aftermarket sway bars usually are mounted lower than the factory bars. A little more visible looking at the car than the stock setup and a little less clearance.

I am trying to fit a rear sway bar on a '71.
Are there other options to mount a stock factory sway bar without the ball fittings on the trailing arms?
The existing trailing arms have dimples where the ball would be, so maybe not a big deal to add the pins?
Maybe fit the weltmeister setup to the spring plates?

I have the Weltmeister but the better way to go is Tarett.

Ty, Why not spend about $70 and get the early sway bar mounts. These go on really easily and there is no build up of metal require to fit them between the early/late pinch weld and seam styles?

Absolutely, you must attach the bar and make sure you have clearance across the car. High and tight is good, touching is not.

Buckley has a great bracket that butts up to the torsion tube.

Take a look at it.

Buckley Racing - 911 Car Prep

Interesting that your 71 trailing arms have dimples where the pins would go. Seems like that would make it a lot easier. I know my 66 911's trailing arms did not have any dimples. I borrowed a friends 67 911S trailing arms (with the ball mount from the factory) and copied the location. Don't think you can connect the stock bar to the weltmeister springplate mount, the ends of the bar are different. Weltmeister is not very helpful, with spare parts availability. They would rather sell you a complete kit. The do sell an "improved" bolt for the springplate mount. You may be able to rig up some rod end swivels to it. About $5 each from Summit. Sounds like the easiest, would be to weld in the pins if you have the location verified.

FWIW, I installed a factory bar on my '69 - way back when. I suggest welding the ball pins into each control arm first. Those pin locations help locate the remaining parts of the SB.

It helps to have the car on a drive-on lift as equipped at a muffler shop. That way, the control arms are in position at the normal, at-rest ride height.

Install the drop links to the installed ball pins, then to the ends of the bar. Swing the bar upward toward the undercarriage. This allows you to identify and position the SB console accurately for welding. The objective is to mount the bar so it rotates with the suspension movement w/o binding and without adding preload to any side while at rest. Tack weld each console for position, then finish weld. Adjustable drop links are favored for fine tuning and accurate corner balancing, thus the popularity of aftermarket sway bars or upgraded drop links.

What's the "improved" WM spring plate bolt? The weakest link of the rear WM kit is/was the marginal 5/16 x 1.5" socket head screw that connects the rod end to the spring plate (it being the most readily available and highest tensile strength in that thread size). Other SB kits use a larger 3/8" or M8 fastener.

Sherwood

Caveat: Can't confirm installation differences with a SWB 911. Sorry.

Well, it has dimples. I am assuming it is the right location for the ball mounts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328980293.jpg

I have trailing arms from a '70, '71 and '73. All have the dimples.

Yep, that's what I used as a guide with no problems.