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And you are right about the 911 in the Le Mans movie. It is pretty nice but it isn't the Rat ;) Your 911 is soon becoming more famous than Steve McQueens, and maybe even more valuable to:D |
be sure to have someone standing by with a cell phone during engine R&R
also a lot easier with 2 guys working on it |
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Why exactly do I need a cell phone to drop an engine? Pretty sure the factory or the racing teams did not use cell phones for an engine drop;) It would have been really difficult to do this by myself so I followed Wayne's advice from the 101 book and made sure Peter was there to help me. Thanks again Pete:D |
Here is some progress from day 3 of the clutch replacement adventure. Today I was able to get the flywheel off and replace the throwout bearing.
Flywheel lock in place http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884246.jpg Here are a few close up pictures of the flywheel. I am hoping that it can be machined and will take it to a machine shop on Monday. Does anybody have an opinion about the condition of my flywheel? I hope it can be reused http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884343.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884360.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884380.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884396.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884421.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884439.jpg |
Here is a picture of the flywheel all cleaned up after a bath in Simple Green
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884553.jpg Here are a few more pictures of the clutch disc to show how worn it was. I wonder how long this thing was in there? Maybe it is the original clutch? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884624.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884646.jpg It looks like my flywheel seal was not leaking like I previously thought. It appears that all of the black gunk on the engine and in the transmission housing was from the ripped CV boot. I have a new flywheel seal and plan on installing it tomorrow just to be sure. I am certainly not planning on doing this again any time soon. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374884801.jpg |
Shift fork and old throwout bearing removed
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374885269.jpg Old pivot bushing removed from the shift fork http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374885297.jpg New pivot bushing installed http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374885332.jpg I was not sure what grease to use for the throwout bearing. Since I had some Swepco 101 Moly grease I decided to use it. If that is not correct please let me know so I can change it before I button everything back together. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374885423.jpg Shift fork, throwout bearing, throwout bearing guides and shift fork keeper installed :) I must say it is really cool seeing how all of this works. Once I had all of this installed I noticed that the shift fork moves a lot smoother than before. I am sure my throwout bearing was bad as it squealed and the pivot bushing was worn out and there was a lot of play in the fork. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374885493.jpg |
Next up I attacked the leaking shift shaft seal on the transmission. I did not get far and all I was able to do was unbolt the nose cone of the transmission. Once I had it unbolted I gently pried on it and got it about 1 cm away from the main housing but was afraid of damaging it. Do I need to remove the pin from the shaft in the following picture to get the nose cone off? Do I simply need to apply more force and knock it free? Could someone with knowledge of the procedure chime in on how to properly remove the nose cone? SOS, can someone help me!!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374885811.jpg Here is a picture of the leaking shift shaft http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374885856.jpg Since I was not making any progress with the transmission I decided to start cleaning the engine around the flywheel seal. I did not get far there either as I ran out of brake cleaner and Simple Green was not removing any of the old CV grease. Tomorrow is another day (with a trip to Autozone for brake cleaner) and hopefully I will be able to make some more progress. The final pic of the day shows how feeble Simple Green is compared to CV grease. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374886111.jpg |
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glad to see you working on the mechanicals! they can grind the flywheel but make sure it will meet the spec. when they are done - a moderately lightened new flywheel could add fun, so don't be too upset if you need a new one I use Bosch red grease (high temp. ign. system stuff) in there - just check the drip point on the Swepco to be sure it is good also, once you clean up the Mg trans., you ought to coat it with Tectyl or something similar for protection - esp. since FL can get salt spray in most places |
Hi Kristoph,
We are getting a deluge tonight. River around Santo Domingo will probably go to a few thousand cfs this evening. You don't have to take out that pin to get the nose cone off (or for any other reason I can think of). Just the perimeter nuts. Make sure you didn't overlook any. There are locating pins at the top and bottom that are a semi-tight press fit, so it takes a little hammering to knock the cover loose. It might be nice to have it sitting horizontal, rather than vertical. More likely the reverse idler will stay on its shaft (thats what the pin you mentioned holds in place in the nose cone) instead of falling on the garage floor. Did you not replace the mainshaft seal? It is possible to do without dismantling the transmission. Just remove the throwout bering guide sleeve and you will see it. The moly grease you have used will be fine. Don't use much. A little is all you need. I don't think the gunk in your bell housing is from a leaking cv joint. Did you have drips from the bellhousing area when you were driving the car? Even though it looks pretty, quite possible the cranshaft seal is still the culprit. Or it could also be the tranny mainshaft seal. The flywheel is ugly, but it may clean up fine at the machinists. If it has never been cut before there should be enough meat left. The machinist should cut the mounting face for the pressure plate by the same amount as the main surface. he should record how deep of a cut he made ( just the minimum needed to get a clean face please!). Then you should put a shim of the same thickness under the pivot bolt for the throwout bearing arm. This will maintain the correct geometry for the throwout bearing. Sure wish I had been able to put you to work on those transmissions while you were here. I've got all the parts sorted out (finally!) and two of them back together. The third can stay apart until I need it someday, or the next time you are here Nice haircut by the way! DG |
I made some great progress today and was able to button up the transmission, which included the shift shaft seal and the main shaft seal. I was also able to clean up some more of the engine and replace the flywheel seal. I was also able to finish one CV axle. Currently my wife and I are going to a Peruvian restaurant where I am planning on eating something exciting like a guinea pig or an alpaca so I will post pictures after dinner ;)
Edit: The restaurant did not have guinea pig or alpaca - what sadness!! |
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Thanks Obi Wan for all of your great advice. I would not be on this awesome journey if you had not gently nudged me down the "Rat hole"! I wish I could have been there to help you with the transmissions as well. Maybe I can help you on the last one next summer.
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Here are pictures of my progress today.
First I removed the main shaft seal on the transmission and replaced it with a new one. Removing the main shaft seal was a pain and I ended up using my butane torch to melt the plastic seal so it could easily slide out. I ended up cleaning the main shaft and the sealing surfaces with a fine thin brush. The plastic upper part came off easy enough but trying to pry out the metal portion was difficult http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374973730.jpg Time for the torch http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374973790.jpg After heat it easily came out http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374973823.jpg Here are the new and old main shaft seals http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374973875.jpg Cleaning before putting in the new seal http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374973929.jpg New main shaft seal installed :D http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374973964.jpg |
I was also able to clean up the engine near the flywheel and remove the old flywheel seal.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374974107.jpg New flywheel seal installed :Dhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374974133.jpg |
I finished up the transmission by removing the nose cone, replacing the shift shaft seal, replacing the nose cone gasket, putting it all back together and filling it up with my 2% Swepco gear oil. The old shift shaft seal was a pain to remove but eventually I got the better of it.
Nose cone removed. All it took was a little persuasion with a drift and a hammer http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374981601.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374981628.jpg Old leaky seal removed http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374981655.jpg New seal installed http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374981683.jpg Scraping away the old gasket material http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374981716.jpg New gasket before reassembly took place http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374981762.jpg To end the day I cleaned up one of the CV axles by putting on new boots and repacking the bearings with Swepco 101 Moly grease. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374981873.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1374981891.jpg |
Today I was able to make some more progress towards getting the Rat back on the road. I finished the second CV axle, removed, cleaned, and painted the oil tank, got the flywheel machined and installed the flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate.:) On top of all that I got to weld patches into the Yellow Submarine at Peter's house!
Oil tank right after removal. Man what an oily mess. When I reassemble I will be replacing all of the seals in the hope that things won't leak. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141326.jpg Oil lines and oil filter housing after removal http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141362.jpg Oil filter housing after some serious cleaning http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141396.jpg Cleaned up oil tank http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141422.jpg Oil tank with a fresh coat of paint http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141457.jpg |
The machine shop I took the flywheel to allowed me to watch and take pictures!!
Pounding out the pilot bearing and the three alignment pins http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141567.jpg Setting up the flywheel on the cutter http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141630.jpg $300 diamond bit at work cleaning up the flywheel. Overall he did not have to remove very much, which made me quite happy. It appears that this is the first time this flywheel has been cut. He also cut the pressure plate mounting surface to the exact same amount as the surface of the flywheel so all of the geometry would fit. All of this cost me $65. That certainly beats the price of a new flywheel!! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141722.jpg Finished flywheel:D:D http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141773.jpg Flywheel bolted into place with the flywheel lock installed to torque the bolts. I torqued them to 110 ft lbs as suggested in Wayne's 101 book. I also made sure to put some grease on the pilot bearing. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141863.jpg Clutch disc and alignment tool in place http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375141903.jpg Pressure plate bolted down (torqued to 30 ft lbs) and ready to mate up with the transmission http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375142000.jpg |
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