What's this sound?

[quattrorunner]

So my engine is fresh, and I've adjusted the valves twice. It's better than before, but once warmed up it still has a click like loose rocker tappets. When cold and not to temp it sounds sooooo nice and quiet and smooth, like butta. Then once worm it starts to tick again. Runs well but what is it?

[DRACO A5OG]

Heat will cause the adjustment to expand ergo tap tap tap...

This is normal, if quite when cold you did a good job A+

Inversly, quite when hot, it maybe adjusted too tight, FAIL

How are the compression on the cylinders?

[jrolstin]

Rocker shafts adjusted properly? I had a tick before I tore mine apart, and found a rocker shaft on #3 intake had loosened off.

[DRACO A5OG]

oh my

[quattrorunner]

My rocker shafts had issues and I installed the rsr seals in all shafts a couple weeks ago. Then I used sealant on the outter shaft area to keep a leak under controll. Shafts are torqued well.
Thanks Draco, makes me feel better.

Rocker shafts adjusted properly? I had a tick before I tore mine apart, and found a rocker shaft on #3 intake had loosened off.

[quattrorunner]

Yeah, I had a shaft walk out twice too!!!!
Scared the crap out if me. Literally.

oh my

[quattrorunner]

Haven't done a compression test yet but car hauls balls.

[jrolstin]

Yea I don't know how, but I was lucky enough not to have the shaft walk out completely... thank god.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by quattrorunner

Haven't done a compression test yet but car hauls balls.

Oh man after my first DIY valve adjust, I sear i gain couple more horses Whoohoo

[rnln]

Can someone explain in detail how to adjust the rocker shaft? Engine in place, or off the car?
Thanks.

[quattrorunner]

Rocker shaft isn't adjusted, it's torqued. It has an 8mm and a 5mm Allen head on each side. The 5mm is the one to torque to 18lb feet at least. Hold the 8 steady whIle torquing the other, it's hard to do. On my turbo you need to remove the waste gate. On a car with cat or bypass remove them maybe. And make a tool to fit a tq wrench. I used just Allens and turned turned till it hurt. Not very clinical but really tight so it might not leak. Not that easy in practice but easy in job in theory. Hope this helps.

[quattrorunner]

Also very important is to "center" the shaft to the rocker in the bores. If they're centered to the bores, they will likely leak and possably walk out.

[Porsche Head]

I used just Allens and turned turned till it hurt. Not very clinical but really tight so it might not leak...

Are you sure you didn't break something by over torquing the rockers? I think 12lb is spec and 16-18lb is recommended (do a search).

Cliff

[quattrorunner]

12 lb is spec from the factory on new parts. Widely known or believed that more is needed on a used housing to get tight enough to seal. Problem we all need to know is that these bolts stretch, so last time, I actually used some new ones, and shortened others so I could get my torque I needed without bottoming out onto the end of that bolt. It worked and was able to get it tight enough that they wont walk(I hope). And no, I doubt they're broken, or at least they're still in there. But no way of knowing what actual torque I had. I tried to "imagine" what 18lb felt like on a little ol allen wrench.
Odd thing is I thought I torqued them all with a torque wrench through the bores on an extention when I rebuilt the engine but probably used the 12lb figure on my used and previously torqued bores, something to consider. these cam towers are not forever parts I guess. Maybe you get about three to four builds out of them?