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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 7,789
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How easy is it to remove fan/alt for engine cleaning
I want to clean the top of the engine prior to detecting oil leaks.
I'm wondering if it is worth my time to remove the fan/alternator or should I just try and work thru the heater warm air vents. This is on a '74 2.7 so removeing the heater vents is easy, but I want the engine spotless. Thanks.......Vern |
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Enthusiast
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you need to pull the fan shroud, which will be extremely difficult with the engine in the car as some of the fasteners are on the back side of the engine where the firewall is.
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Jonathon 1982 911 SC www.avrmotorsports.com |
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Registered
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Good timing! I'm going to remove mine this weekend for cleaning also. I'll be interested in the responses.
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 7,789
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Ok, thanks for the tip. I think I will start with just working thru the heater ducts.
Vern |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 7,789
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Quote:
just fyi, when I cleaned the bottom of my engine, I hooked the hose up to hot water and the engine came out spotless, just using ordinary degreaser (vs. Gunk which I think tarnishes the aluminum). Vern |
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?
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 30,533
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Unless the early cars are different, one can remove the fan/altenator pretty easily without removing the fan shroud, and then you have decent access to the top.
Keith |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: sectors R&N, SE Pa
Posts: 3,117
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I actually had more oil/dirt on the engine deck forward of the shroud, but mine is a 3.2.
I had removed the intake for some other overdue maintenance, and that was afforded me a lot of access to get to the 'triangle'. hth
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Dan '87 Targa Carrera 3.2 - Fabspeed Cat Bypass, M&K Muffler, SW Chip Venetian Blue |
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Registered User
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Removing the alternator & fan assembly is a 20-30 minute job, tops. Really easy....that'll give you pretty decent access to the top of the motor. Just take pic's of the wire connections on the back of the alternator, and look out for the ground strap that should be attached to the air deflector.
This is what mine looked like when I took it apart for the first time (also a '74 2.7). I degreased the top of the motor, replaced the ground strap, cleaned up the connections & fixed the air deflector. Also a good time to consider some fan & fan housing cleaning while you have it out.... ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Docking Bay 94
Posts: 7,032
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It's not difficult. The only hard part might be the slack in the wiring, they can be stiff and not very pliable.
While you're in there you should replace the ground strap/wire. With age they can build up a resistance, perfect time to renew it and they are only $10 or $15 bucks. Disconnect your battery beforehand!
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Kurt |
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Formerly known as Syzygy
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 4,420
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It comes out pretty easy. However, in my case it was a bit of a PITA to put back in properly. Still, it's only a few minute job each for removal and then replacement.
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Kevin 1987 ROW coupe, Marine blue, with a couple extra goodies. The cars we love the best are the ones with human traits, warts and all. |
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Functionista
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: CO
Posts: 7,717
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I will do this as well at some point.
But I'll use something like Simple Green as it is not too harsh. I have a short braided ground strap from a 2001 Suburban we scrapped. Fits with my theory of DNA sharing between cars I've had. Weird, I know. I once used about 600 grit to wet sand fan/housing and it turned out nice and not too shiny. I also want to put an extension on a can and try to reach oil cooler with degreaser.
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Jeff 74 911, #3 I do not disbelieve in anything. I start from the premise that everything is true until proved false. Everything is possible. Last edited by manbridge 74; 03-21-2012 at 07:20 PM.. |
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