Bump steer kit instal question

[expat]

So I'm putting the Pelican bump steer spacers in at the moment.

The instructions (both 101 Projects and the copy with the kit) direct me to loosen the connection (lower uni joint) of the rack shaft to the steering column. This allows the upward movement of the rack.

However, having loosened it, the rack shaft would not move upward inside the yoke (uni joint). Despite even prying the yoke open a little, it still did not slide within the yoke. What did happen was this -

The rack shaft moved upward, pressing the second shaft (upper section of rack) to accomodate the lifting upwards of the rack and pinion housing.

So questions -

1. Should I prise the yoke open more to allow the lower shaft to slide upwards? This then leads to the next question -
2. There's only about 4mm of space between the outer yoke and the splined end of the rack shaft that's suppose to slide upwards inside the yoke. How much space should there be once the spacers are in correctly??!! (Seems to me that that the yoke could contact the spline when the wheel is turned! I note that the yoke has been ground off which I assume is factory. Doesn't look like an after thought - looks cast this way)
3. Why do 1 hours jobs for everyone else become 4 hour jobs for me!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for any URGENT replies.

Cheers
Mark

[katigbr]

Mark,
I experienced the same frustrating problem. I ended up loosening the yoke and using a screwdriver/chisel to pry the gap wider to allow it to slide as far as it could. It was not a perfect fit in the end. It would have went faster with two people. One pushing on the steering rack from under the car and one playing with the yoke to try and get it to engage further.

Rick

[Sean Hamilton]

Seems we're leap frogging one another Mark with these last few improvements.... the rear deck struts first, now the bump steer. I've still got my Pelican kit sitting on the bench - working up the courage to have another go at the yoke. I've recently been chasing a steering shaft chatter and in the process of removing the lower fire wall bearing I had too remove the shaft and uni joints and noticed there was only a few millimetres upward free slack in the lower yoke so I thought that I may have to loosen both uni-joints to get sufficient total slack to install the bump steer kit. In the end the bearing was a big job (for me) having to remove the fan air plenum etc so I put the bump steer kit in the "another time" basket.
I know I haven't helped, but Rick's comment "It was not a perfect fit in the end" is a bit of a worry now?

[expat]

Well in the end I've just released both the yokes to accomodate a bit of upward movement. I'm unsure I have really got a successful install. I don't know how to confirm it but I believe I have some pressure being exerted on the top shaft (pushing it sideways), caused by the upward movement.

I have taken the car for a drive. Slowly at first, safety being a concern. After a half hour I took it for some corners at speed where I know I get kickback from the steering as I hit a few bumps - to be honest...I reckon no difference. Still I didn't drive for too long as I had other things to do so I need to get another few runs in.

For anyone doing this mod. I would like to highlight a few things.

The rack seems to move easily enough to get the spacers in but if you have two people it would make life really easy. One levers the rack upward, while the other slides in the spacers.

Given that you are moving the rack upwards (6mm?) check that you have enough space at the yoke for the shaft to slide this amount upwards.

Line up the bolt holes really well (with a punch as the instructions suggest) before you bolt it up. Stipping the aluminum could be a PITA - likewise don't over tighten.

If you did't know already, of the four bolts you need to undo on the stone guard, two require an Allen key. You'll probably need a short breaker bar. I couldn't budge them with a standard length socket handle or wrench.

I guess now its off to the alignment shop.

Cheers
Mark

[KTL]

You shouldn't have to pry the end of the u-joint open to move the steering shaft. The shaft will only move when the clamp bolt for the u-joint is COMPLETELY removed. This is because there's a groove cut into the shaft to allow the bolt to pass over the shaft.

Those bolts holding the stone guard in place should be coated with copper anti-seize. That's what is used on all the bolts holding the A-arms and crossmember in place.

I too have the rack spacers but i've not yet installed them. When reinstalling the rack, I noticed that the clearance between the rack itself and the fuel lines is quite tight. Raising the rack with the spacers looks like it will pinch the rubber fuel hose between the rack and the chassis. I don't like the idea of this installation, so I think i'm going to leave the spacers out.

Anybody else notice this situation when putting in rack spacers?

Thanks,