2.4 MFI to a 3.0 help?

[Skip Newsom]

I did do a simple search, no hits...

I have my eye on a 3.0 for my 72 Targa. More is always better!
Does anyone have a thorough how to they can share?

I've dropped motors and transmissions, redone suspensions and such so I'm confident that with some help from the board this will be a fun project!

I know I need the 6 pin ignition box, a different tach, a fuel pump and some re-wiring.

From this starting point I also wonder about cooling, the 2.4 motor runs really well and with stock tank and cooler it stays in the 180-210 zone even on 90 degree days (the two we get every year in Puget Sound).

Opinions on the need for an additional cooler? if so will the 'in the front fender version" be enough?

Specifics on the wiring changes needed, the fuel hose routing changes and fuel pump/fuel pump mounting suggestions are the detils I'm looking for. I'm happy to photograph the process to help the next knucklehead that wants to do the same crazy upgrade.

The 3.0 is out of an '83 and according to JW: really strong (It's in his car at the moment).
John's write up that caught my eye about the motor:
"the engine is plug and play. i went through it last may. valve grind, rings, rod bearings, 20/21 cams, 74 exchangers, monty 2 in, 2 out muffler. early fuel distributor that doesn't use the O2 system computer and freq valve. runs awesome."

Any helpful hints out there?
Thanks!!
Skip

ALSO... there will likely be a very nice 2.4 MFI motor for sale here in the Seattle area late summer-ish!

And JW, yes, (obviously) I'm still interested after you get the turbo rebuilt!

[Grady Clay]

Skip,

JW will be able to lead you through this conversion.
Yes, while a bit of a chore, you can fit the MFI to a 3.0.
Critical will be matching the cams, CR, and ‘breathing’ of the engine to match the MFI characteristics.
With a 2994 cc engine (compared to 2341 cc) you may want to source the MFI stacks and throttle bodies from a 2.4 ‘E’ or ‘S’ to get the full benefit.

Tuning will be a challenge.
You will want to spend a lot of dyno time.
Critical will be not having the engine ‘go lean’ under some rpm/throttle settings.

If you are going to this effort, consider twin-plug and 98 mm high compression Nikasil P&Cs (Max Moritz?)

Easier might be a 3.2 (3164 cc) with the 98 mm (3506 cc) P&Cs and twin plugs.
Chips are available to ease the tuning.

Keep in mind that your Targa chassis may not like large hp increase.
Targas of this era are known as ‘flexible flyers’. Be aware.
What is the rust condition (and prior crash damage repair) of your Targa?

Best,
Grady

[RSTarga]

If you do this I'd keep the 2.4 MFI on a shelf. The value of these 72's is increasing and if your's is numbers matching It will be worth your while to keep it.

[Skip Newsom]

Thanks for the replies!
To clarify though, I just want to put the 3.0 with it's stock intake tract in the 72.
The original motor is stored already... the 2.4 that is in my car was purchased about 4 years ago.
What I am looking for are the specifics on mating the 3.0 to a stock 72 chassis, the car has zero rust and I can do some stiffening if the experts out there think it wise.

I'm looking for some one who has done the swap and can help me through the fuel pump, 6 pin ignition box and tach changes necessary.
I know JW can help... just hoping the board has some suggestions.

Thanks!
Side note... heading the the Sovren historics races down at Pacific International Raceways this Sunday with Rich Lambert, Jeff Higgins and some of the other Seattle area guys/gals- I can't wait!!

[cdrik915]

Do not make this conversion.

72' models cost a lot of money , more & more.


On another point of view , that's not correct with the matching numbers.

And a bad point if you decide to sell your car.

[Skip Newsom]

I understand the sentiment about 72's they were and are a very special breed... I have no plans to sell this car and I've been very careful to keep her just as stock as possible.
The only exceptions are Elephant bushings front and rear (easy to return to stock) HID bulbs in the headlights and a respray of the interior pan with a high quality sound deadener (the original coating was slowly removing itself). I put new carpeting in and some later used leather seats. I did put a new head unit in and kept the original non functioning radio as well. (without cutting the dash of course).

The work to drop in a 3.0 will be done with the ability to return her to stock, like I mentioned earlier I have the original motor out of the car and stored.

I feel very lucky to own this car and she has no rust, not been in any accidents... but has been resprayed (so-so job at best) with the original Signal Yellow paint. (Before I got her 6 years ago).

The one thing that would make her perfect for me... more HP. I don't intend to race her, but I do like carving through the back-roads of the North Cascades.

So then... back to my original questions???

[Skip Newsom]

Here's a shot taken 2006, original motor on the left, replacement 2.4 on the right ready to be prepped for install.

[jeffs9146]

I did this on my 75 914 and you need to purchase a ring gear and clutch package (patrick motor sports). The tach needs to match the approx. year of the motor 78-83 and the senders should also match for the oil temp and oil pressure! Wireing the fuel pump and replacing the lines to high pressure lines should be done first. The rest is just wiring the late motor harness to the early chassis and hooking up the fuel accumulator stuff which is self explanitory!