1980 sc wur question and wire question

[mikeferg75]

I cannot find a connection/line for the vacuum port on my wur?




Also, what is this connector for? I cannot find the other end, Red/white, and Brown



TIA

Ferg

[mikeferg75]

crud, her is the pic of the wire connection

[timmy2]

Here is where the wire goes.
First time engine drop
Shots of the WUR here.
First time engine drop

[mikeferg75]

thanks that helps, mine seems to be deleted, this could be the reason for my cold start issue. Now I need to track down a fuel smell.

[Scott R]

You do not have a vacuum port on an 80' WUR. The 80 is a WUR unique to only this year.

[mikeferg75]

well, I've got one (port on wur)... Question is should I cap that vacuum port on the WUR, and yes the car is a 80, so looks like it's a wur from another year.

seems like my thermo valve has been deleted. I do have to feather the throttle to keep it going on cold starts for about 20-30 seconds. Without the thermo valve, anything I can do to ease cold starts?

TIA
Ferg

[boyt911sc]

Ferg,

What's the Bosch number on your WUR? Could you post the number (ID) for us. Thanks.

Tony

[mikeferg75]

0438 140 069

[boyt911sc]

Ferg,

Is your car a US or RoW (Euro) model? The WUR number you have provided does not look like for a US car. Please advise. Thanks.

Tony

[Scott R]

According to my collection of WUR's that's for a 79' ROW. Jan 79 to Aug 79 the 069 has a higher curve than the normal 80 US WUR

[mikeferg75]

It's a US car.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by mikeferg75

It's a US car.

If your car is indeed a US model, then you would need a -072 (no vacuum attachment). The -069 WUR is intended for RoW ('78-'79) per my notes. But it could me made to work with your engine. Check and record the cold to warm control fuel pressure profile versus time (minutes). Keep us posted.

Tony

[Gunter]

Cold start problems?

AAR check: (Auxiliary Air Regulator)

Check the AAR located on the right side of the engine between 5-6 intake runner.
It's the item that has a small electric plug and a large vacuum hose connected to it.
Open the clamp holding the outside-hose.
Pry it off with the screwdriver just enough to get it out of the way so you can see into the opening.
Don’t worry about the Alu pipe; it’ll move enough.
With the help of a small mirror and a light, peek inside the AAR.
When COLD, you should see an opening in the slide shaped like a half-moon.
Re-connect the hose, start the engine and let it get real hot.
Stop engine, remove the vac hose again, check the opening again.
When HOT, the opening should be completely closed.
If it isn't closed, the AAR is either kaput, out of adjustment or doesn't get any power.
You can spray some WD-40 into the valve in case it is just sticky.
To check the power, carefully open the tiny clip on the plug with a very small screwdriver and pull it off.
The wire clip is tricky but necessary; don't yank it off.
Start the engine and check the plug for 12 V. (Careful of the fan/belt!)
Just ignition ON will not get power to AAR or WUR; engine has to run.
(One wire is power, the other (brown) is ground)
With power to the AAR, it should close after about 5 minutes.
If all is well, replace the hose and clamp securely.

Also check wiring from starter Solenoid to CSV and TTS.

[Vereeken]

I do not know if you have a US car or ROW car but it seems that you are indeed lacking your thermo time valve and that your WUR is EURO.
The thermo time valve holds off vacuum to the wur at cold starts, thus richening the fuel setting during the vacuum hold off.
You can leave the port open on the WUR if you do not have the thermo valve. You can also close it off it will not change anything .

THe Thermo time valve opens after about 45 seconds after startup( provided it is connected to the wiring and receives 12V) when it opens it leans out the WUR fuel setting. So what your are doing with your foot the TTV does for you when connected.

Michel

[mikeferg75]

AAR is working.

Will test wire to csv

[timmy2]

If you decide to replace your WUR with the right one, I'd be interested in your ROW WUR as a spare for my car.

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by mikeferg75

AAR is working.

Will test wire to csv

As I understand it, the CSV is energized only during cranking with the TTS providing ground. There are 2 connections to the TTS: One side is power to the TTS heating element and the other side is ground for the CSV as long as the TTS is closed. Once the TTS is hot, it opens and the CSV no longer functions.
Since the TTS is mounted on the chain case cover, when the engine is hot, the TTS is open and prevents the CSV from working.

Hope I got this right.

[Porsche80]

I have a wur that needs replacing because of hunting idle during cold start and aar was replaced a short tiime ago otherwise after warm up runs like a champ. My wur part number is 0-438-140-080, however having a time finding this number any place and my car is also a 1980 911SC US and the vac hose is not there and hole appears to be plugged

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by Porsche80

I have a wur that needs replacing because of hunting idle during cold start and aar was replaced a short tiime ago otherwise after warm up runs like a champ. My wur part number is 0-438-140-080, however having a time finding this number any place and my car is also a 1980 911SC US and the vac hose is not there and hole appears to be plugged

For US 1980 SC, the correct WUR is 0 438 140 072.
This is a specific WUR just for US 1980.
Later SC's are 090.

Check the number again.
If it only hunts during cold start and runs great when hot, I'd leave it alone.

[Porsche80]

After taking my WUR out to verify if good or bad, determined that it was a 0 438 140 089 (the last digit was un-readable and I thought it was a 090, but based on the fact that is has a vacuum line I have to beleive it is a 089)I beleive I can just cap it off at WUR. The vacuum line it connects into is the decel vacuum side.