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Join Date: Feb 2002
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Lowering an 89 Carrera?
I was driving around over the weekend, and I noticed that the rake on my car (bone stock, 1989 carrera) is not that pleasing visually. I know from some posts on the board that lowering the cars gives better handling and a somewhat stiffer ride. My question is, what's involved in lowering the car? From what I understand, the front is easier than the rear, but I'm wondering if this is a weekend project out of 101 projects, or is this a more serious undertaking? I don't want to lower it all that much, and I'm also wondering if I will have to get an alignment done afterward.
Any thoughts are appreciated. Jared
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89 Carrera 3.4 "There is a right way to go around a corner - it's called the line." -- PCA DE speaker bryteside.com - good things happen. |
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shameless bump.....
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89 Carrera 3.4 "There is a right way to go around a corner - it's called the line." -- PCA DE speaker bryteside.com - good things happen. |
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Irrationally exuberant
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Lowering it won't stiffen the ride. It may improve the handling if you don't go too low. You can lower it yourself but have it aligned and cornerweighted when you're done.
You'll need a couple of special thin wrenches. The place that cornerweights your car could lower it at the same time - they'll be adjusting the ride height some anyway. -Chris |
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I had assumed that lowering it would necessitate less suspension travel, requiring either stiffer springs or bump-stops. Although I'm not really planning on dropping it that far. I had also thought that by lowering it (and stiffening it, as per assumption #1) I'd reduce body roll, and therefore enhance the handling and stability through turns.
However, if this is something that requires a shop and money, I might pass for the moment. Thanks for the response.
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89 Carrera 3.4 "There is a right way to go around a corner - it's called the line." -- PCA DE speaker bryteside.com - good things happen. |
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Back in the saddle again
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central TX west of Houston
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lowering doesn't require stiffer springs (torsion bars in our case)(hey, this isn't an '89 C4 is it?). The way these cars are sprung is by a long metal rod at each tire that uses it's resistance to twisting to act as a spring. By rotating the bar we raise/lower the cars. Lowering the car from US height will cause it to corner more flatly because the center of gravity will be lower, but shouldn't change the ride at all.
If you lower the car yourself you will likely disturb the weight distribution on the tires. Even if the car is perfectly level front to back and side to side the weight distr can be off significantly causing dangerous and/or unpredictable handling. Recently on either this board or the Rennlist board there was a discussion of lowering, corner balance and alignment. I was shocked to hear of prices in the $175 to $250 range.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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Irrationally exuberant
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Quote:
The lowering and cornerweighting is more time consuming than you might think. If I was just cheap I would pay someone to do it (but I'm really cheap so I don't). -Chris |
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Lowering the front is not a problem, but the rears are set at the lowest adjustable setting from the factory...it can only go up unless you re-index the torsion bars. You will need an alignment though.
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I highly recommend getting your car lowered.It makes a world of difference and well worth the money.Have it done at a trusted Porsche shop.You do need and alingment and I also recommend Turbo tie rods and a bump steer kit while you're there.
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These are definitely good points. I'll take some serious thought in lowering the car. I wouldn't be going that low, and I don't really push the car to its limits (maybe its patience, but that's about it) so I'd be hesitant to put in the bump steer kit or the turbo tie rods.
As long as we're discussing it, what is the point of the rake? Is it just to turn the whole car into a wing, in order to put more downforce on the rear wheels? It looks a bit cheesy (I picture the "tricked out" porsche from "Bachelor Party" with the huge rear wheels and the flames. Clearly new to the game, but trying to learn.
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89 Carrera 3.4 "There is a right way to go around a corner - it's called the line." -- PCA DE speaker bryteside.com - good things happen. |
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How does the car sit now?
Measure the uppermost part of the (bottom) fenderlips to the ground. The norm (or "euro-height") is 25.5" front and 25" rear. Let us know. I lowered and corner balanced my car last fall. Then took it to an alignment shop.
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Nick '85 Carrera |
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A question on bump steering. My car is at US height. If I lower it to euro height...do I need a bump steer kit? or is the bump steer kit only needed if I lower the car "lower" than euro height.
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Randall 1988 911 Cabriolet (SW Chip) 2000 Honda Civic (4dr wifey mobile) 2001 Honda S2000 (daily driver) 2003 Honda Odyssey (family truckster) 1978 911 SC coupe (Sold) My 911 Cab Pics |
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Irrationally exuberant
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I run about 25"front and 24.5"rear without the bump steer kit. I bought a kit years ago and never needed it. I think if your tie rods are level then you are fine. I run a stiffer suspension so that may reduce bump steer in my case.
-Chris |
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Irrationally exuberant
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Is this too much rake?
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Quote:
Thanks, Michael 87 Targa |
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Hard for me to explain with words....
I use the center-line of the wheel. Find the highest point in the wheel arch, the lowest part of the fender lip. Measure from this highest arch and fender-lip from the ground. You should see ~25.5". I hope someone will be better able to explain than I. ![]()
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Nick '85 Carrera |
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