Dash "Delete" Replacement Panels, Plugs

[NoLift911]

Some folks were asking for a "how to" on this from a previous post of mine. For those of you that have street/race/track cars and are looking for a decent/OEM way to replace the holes in your dash - be it from stereo removal, accessory removal, HVAC etc here is an easy way, and cheap.

I used 3 of the OEM radio delete panels - some may not consider $15 apiece cheap but they do match the grain/color of the dash very well as they are OEM pieces. Considering alternatives these seemed cheap for me.

Anyway the process is pretty easy - trim to fit. First off the way the OEM radio delete fits is very ghetto fabulous at best - not really a fit at all. But, there is a solution in that there is a recess for both the radio and the HVAC controls - that happens to be the same thickness as the delete plate - and that is how it should fit. Flush and smooth.

A picture is worth a thousand words - so let's go:

The end result first so folks know what I am talking about...



How to get there:

First off remove all of the nonsense on the backs of the plates (sorry for the blurry pic):



The next step is pretty obvious - you want to measure and cut for the hole and recess, but in this case it is better not to cut to keep the stock appearance of the plate. So pull out the belt sander and start to trim the pieces down, slowly. the excess material melts away and you simply peel it off - leaves an OEM looking edge like so:





Your belt sander should look like this after:



Once you have the fitment correct, it should recess perfectly in the hole and be flush (both for stereo and HVAC) Next, you will need some adhesive...spray on is best. Tape the edges of the plate so as not to make a mess of things and spray on the adhesive, noting direction of placement, remove tape and affix:



Final fitment for both panels:



I did one for my brake sensor/e-brake/and seat belts - depends on if you still have this or not - as noted in the first picture, but the process is the same. I think in the first shot it looks pretty OEM.

I know this does not work for all cars...my guess is 74-89 models.

And a shot(s) of the car:

[moneymanager]

Did this today.
I didn't need to grind off the back plastic; I like to be able to get this piece out for access behind.
Used masking tape to mark how far I needed to sand, then rubbed plastic against rough followed by fine emery paper on a very flat board--in place of the belt sander. Did the two ends, then one of the longer edges. Went slowly, fitting, sanding, fitting. After 1/2 hour, perfect!
Great tip. Thanks!

[NoLift911]

Got any pics?

[dipso]

Pretty cool.

[moneymanager]

Will post in a day or two. But my result is identical to yours!

[Elombard]

Hey, how do you get the friggen seatbelt, brake pad combo light out of the dash? I tried every way I can think of it might be attached in there - no luck.

by the way those block offs look beautiful.

Any body have a source for the clock block off plug? I dont see them on TREs site any more.

[NoLift911]

Originally Posted by Elombard

Hey, how do you get the friggen seatbelt, brake pad combo light out of the dash? I tried every way I can think of it might be attached in there - no luck.

by the way those block offs look beautiful.

Any body have a source for the clock block off plug? I dont see them on TREs site any more.

Funny you mention that...I think they installed that first and then built the car around it...there may be a way, and there may even be a correct way...I took the bang out from the trunk way. It came out - is it reusable, well that is debateable...

Clock plug - where to get. I know Rothsport sells them, they are billet aluminum though, no idea why. Have not seen the plastic ones in some time. I think I got mine from Dave at MS Road race a while ago.

[moneymanager]

Here's a pic of my attempt....

[moneymanager]

Parker,
What are you going to do with the safety belt hole?
Jim

[NoLift911]

Originally Posted by moneymanager

Parker,
What are you going to do with the safety belt hole?
Jim

Are you talking about the safey belt signage hole? Same thing, it's been plugged in the first pic.

[moneymanager]

Of course. I missed the fix at first glance. Thanks.

[Elombard]

I see Roth Sport has the plastic clock hole plugs for $39

[NoLift911]

Originally Posted by Elombard

I see Roth Sport has the plastic clock hole plugs for $39

My bad I guess they are plastic?...at some point wasn't someone selling the billet aluminum version...? I must be losing it...

[NoLift911]

Originally Posted by moneymanager

Of course. I missed the fix at first glance. Thanks.

That's good...it means it is stealthy and unobtrusive

[911SauCy]

What tires are you running?

[LJ851]

Here is my version.

[will hung]

Originally Posted by Elombard

...Any body have a source for the clock block off plug? I dont see them on TREs site any more.

So I read this on the Early S Registry recently in regards to budget parts,

Originally Posted by CurtEgerer

Of course everyone knows that the lid on a 16oz jar of peanut butter is exactly the same diameter as a clock and makes a perfect clock delete plate. Get the generic with the plain lid, unless you want 'Peter Pan' or 'Jiffy' imprinted on the plate (which some may prefer ....). There's more, but this is a sufficiently embarrassing admission for today.

Special thanks to Curt for the suggestion.

[Elombard]

Oh sweet!

Road And Race confirmed that they still carry them.

[ratpiper71T]

Delete plates are Cool ingenuity. P-Dawger how about more shot of your cage and wheels? They are pretty hot looking-usually don't like non Fuchs but they look right.

[dfink]

I have found that old laptop cases can be cut up into about any cover you want. The texture is a very good fit and can be had for free.