CV Replacement Question
 

I just noticed my drivers outer cv boot is ripped and I think it happened recently because I haven't heard any clunking, or other noises. I've looked at lots of posts on repairing them, but my concern is whether or not I can get by with just repacking and replacing the boot, or something more extreme. Obviously, I'll have to remove the axle and check it out, but in the mean time, would it be reasonable to go ahead and order a cv boot repair kit from our sponsor? One other question: After removing the inner flance from the trannie, do I drop it down a bit in order to drive out the stub axle from the other end? I suppose it will be obvious when I get in there, but just a question I have. Also, do the bolts have to be replaced with new ones? It would be good to order everything at the same time. TIA,

Don Ivey
'87 Carrera

Cannot comment on the stub axle ('78) but yes, new Schnorr washers and hex bolts.

Suggest a search including Grady and CV joint.

You will need to remove the wheel and hub to get to the stub axel nut, but after you cut things loose at the trannie; yes, the CV allows you to drop one down below the trans and slide out the entire assy.
Fairly straight forward.

Are you sure about that? Why cant he just unbolt the six bolts that hold the outer CV to the wheel hub? I have seen this done before.

Later models (after '85 or '86 ?) do not have an "unboltable" outer CV joint, the stub axle, CV and half-shaft must be removed as a unit.

Jerry M
'78 SC

I stand corrected.

So sorry for the wrong call.

new Schnorr washers always

hex bolts can usually be re-used - inspect the threads and wrenching fixture carefully to find out

I don't think you can be too careful re-checking the torque on the CV bolts after a hundred miles or so. Many stories of the cv bolts backing out, causing some wicked destruction of the adjoining areas.

absolutely - check them

every time the bolts back out, it seems they either re-used the Schnorr washers or don't know if a PO or shop did so...

Obviously it does not hurt to buy new, but I have been reusing the bolts and washers for many years and have never had a problem doing so . . .

I did them 2 years ago and the only thing I had to remove was the bolt on the bottom of the shock and that made it real easy. You may have to buy a very large breaker bar to remove the rear axle bolt. PIA but not a real hard job, actually may be the most straight forward job I have done on the Carrera. Good luck. Steve

My 86 did not have the schnorr washers, just the three crescent moon spacers. new bolts are cheap insurance as the ones I removed were a little worn in the head and I didn't want problems the next time I needed to remove them. Under two dollars each at the hardware store.

You will need a 3/4" or 1" breaker bar and possibly a cheater pipe to remove the axle nut, or maybe a local shop can do it for you, then snug them up for the drive home. Once you remove the axle nut, the axle stub should not resist much. Try to avoid hitting the axle stub with a hammer to "drive" it or you could damage the rear bearing. The axle nut is also to be replaced every time it comes off. You do need to remove the lower shock bolt as suggested.

You need to pull the inner cv off the axle to slide the new boot up to the outer CV. The outer hub doesn't come off. There are a few great posts on cv replacement, just search of "cv". It's easily a DIY job for under $100 unless you need to buy tools.

Thanks for all the replies. I had a 3/4 breaker bar, and with a 11/4 standard 3/4 socket, and length of pipe over the breaker bar, came right off. The 11/4 standard socket fits the 32mm nut perfectly, and was the only local option. I have heard schnoor washers aren't required on the '87 cars, and will replace bolts if they're damaged. There are lots of good posts on how to do it so don't think it will be a problem (famous last words). Thanks,

Don Ivey

Don,

Here is one of the best threads on this subject:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/222537-reconstructing-constant-velocity-cv-joints.html
While a bit long, it is worth reading and studying in its entirety.

Here is a list of other useful threads.
Pelican Parts Technical BBS - Search Results

I suspect your axles have previously been off the transmission and not checked / re-torqued since.
Be sure to torque all the other CV joint bolts.

Please heed all the advice about proper strength grade new bolts and new Schnorr washers.

Carefully inspect the face surface of the transmission axle flange for damage from the joint coming off.
With a new bolt, inspect the internal threads in the flange.

Was the tin end-cap on the inboard CV joint damaged?
If so, replace the tin end-cap with an undamaged one (good used is OK).
With dents here, the CV joint pieces can contact inside the tin and wear a hole.

Be sure to re-torque everything after 100 miles or so.

Best,
Grady