How far/Safe to drive somewhere?

[911Maverick]

Good morning all,

I recently serviced the drivers side CV joints on my 86 Carrera. The outer boot was torn but the joints were in good shape. I disassembled the inner, replaced the boot on the outer and filled everything with new grease. I got it all back together successfully and am happy with everything!

That being said; as we all know the stub axle nut needs to be torqued to 333ftlbs. Needless to say I do not have a torque wrench that goes that high. I torqued to 150ftlbs and got it to go about another 1/3 turn until I couldn't move it any further.

My local Porsche shop is about 25 minutes (20 miles or so) away and said they would torque it in the lot for free if I get it over there. I could definitely drive delicately to the shop but wanted to know how bad this would be to do. Am I going to destroy something? Should I just find a pipe big enough to fit over my torque wrench and do the math (100ftlbs with a 3'3" pipe should yield 333ftlbs I think)?

I don't want to tear this whole thing back down to change out the wheel bearing or something. Any help would be appreciated.

[billybek]

I wouldn't snipe a torque wrench.
There are torque multipliers out there that will allow you to increase the torque delivered by your torque wrench.

Google "torque multiplier" there are probably youtube videos on the subject.

I would guess that you should be fine to drive 20 miles but I wouldn't hammer on it!

[Targa Time]

Get a breaker bar and put the pipe over it. I would be more concerned about hurting your torque wrench than the axle nut.

The axle nut WILL back off without the proper torque. Just a matter of time. You will be taking a chance driving 20 miles.

[pors1968]

It would fine for 25 mile 150lbs+1\3 turn your about 225lbs and dont forget to recheck CV bolts after 60 miles.

[Flat6pac]

Torque is a multiplier in #ft
1/2 in breaker bar with a pipe over it
Take your bathroom scale and step on it.
3 ft up the pipe from the nut press down on the bar until you have moved your weight back 115 #
You now have 345 ft# of torque on the nut.
Bruce

[Jesse16]

Its not gonna back off in a short drive, the manual torque methods above are all I've ever done and without problems ever. That 333 or 345 number is big but we're not talking NASA accuracy required on 30+ year old cars and fasteners.

[911tracker85]

2' breaker bar, my 200 lb weight on the end. was close enough for me a few years ago.

[911Maverick]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Torque is a multiplier in #ft
1/2 in breaker bar with a pipe over it
Take your bathroom scale and step on it.
3 ft up the pipe from the nut press down on the bar until you have moved your weight back 115 #
You now have 345 ft# of torque on the nut.
Bruce

This I can do! Awesome; thank you for the tip. I only weigh 145 so hopefully my scale is a bit accurate enough. Also thank you for the tip on retightening the CV bolts after 60 miles. I had forgot about that.

[Matt Monson]

I'd drive it over there.

[bpu699]

Originally Posted by 911Maverick

Good morning all,

I recently serviced the drivers side CV joints on my 86 Carrera. The outer boot was torn but the joints were in good shape. I disassembled the inner, replaced the boot on the outer and filled everything with new grease. I got it all back together successfully and am happy with everything!

That being said; as we all know the stub axle nut needs to be torqued to 333ftlbs. Needless to say I do not have a torque wrench that goes that high. I torqued to 150ftlbs and got it to go about another 1/3 turn until I couldn't move it any further.

My local Porsche shop is about 25 minutes (20 miles or so) away and said they would torque it in the lot for free if I get it over there. I could definitely drive delicately to the shop but wanted to know how bad this would be to do. Am I going to destroy something? Should I just find a pipe big enough to fit over my torque wrench and do the math (100ftlbs with a 3'3" pipe should yield 333ftlbs I think)?

I don't want to tear this whole thing back down to change out the wheel bearing or something. Any help would be appreciated.

? I did this about 7 years ago... replaced a torn cv joint. Also have had the engine out several times, and the CV joints come out first. I don't recall anything that required 333ft/lbs of torque? What bolt/nut are we talking about here?

Confused...

[scottrx7tt]

i just replaced my CV joint boots, and i used my Harbor Freight Earthquake 1/2" impact wrench to attach the nut. I just gave it a few raps on the trigger, and Voila! Not sure of the torque, but i have had no problems.

[garment]

Originally Posted by bpu699

? I did this about 7 years ago... replaced a torn cv joint. Also have had the engine out several times, and the CV joints come out first. I don't recall anything that required 333ft/lbs of torque? What bolt/nut are we talking about here?

Confused...

^^ This. Can you provide a picture of this Mountain of a nut?

[bpu699]

Originally Posted by garment

^^ This. Can you provide a picture of this Mountain of a nut?

Just re-read the pelican tutorial... no where does it say to loosen/remove the stub axle to change cv joints... Why would one do that?

[911Maverick]

Originally Posted by bpu699

Just re-read the pelican tutorial... no where does it say to loosen/remove the stub axle to change cv joints... Why would one do that?

I pulled the whole shaft because it makes it a hell of a lot easier to replace the boots. Also from 84 on the outer CV is not rebuildable so you have to pull the whole axle to replace the boots.

Here is the nut. 32mm or a 1-1/4"

[Pazuzu]

Originally Posted by 911Maverick

This I can do! Awesome; thank you for the tip. I only weigh 145 so hopefully my scale is a bit accurate enough. Also thank you for the tip on retightening the CV bolts after 60 miles. I had forgot about that.

Easier then! Grab the cheater bar about an arms length from the end (roughly 2.25 feet), and put your entire weight on it until you lift off the ground. magic, 320ish foot pounds completed. No need for fancy scales, multipliers, torque wrenches or anything. You, putting all of your weight on the bar about an arms length from the end will be exactly 333 foot pounds.


Exactly. exactly enough at least...

[911Maverick]

Originally Posted by Pazuzu

Easier then! Grab the cheater bar about an arms length from the end (roughly 2.25 feet), and put your entire weight on it until you lift off the ground. magic, 320ish foot pounds completed. No need for fancy scales, multipliers, torque wrenches or anything. You, putting all of your weight on the bar about an arms length from the end will be exactly 333 foot pounds.


Exactly. exactly enough at least...

Even better! I have a track inspection in a couple weeks so I will have them check the torque then. At least I will feel more comfortable from now to then.

[911 Rod]

Originally Posted by bpu699

Just re-read the pelican tutorial... no where does it say to loosen/remove the stub axle to change cv joints... Why would one do that?

The Carrera does not have bolts on the inside of the wheel like the SC.

The shaft that goes through the wheel is part of the axle and the only way to remove the axle is to take the nut off and push the shaft through.

Lots of fun to remove when the engine is out and you don't have anyone to push on the brake.

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Torque is a multiplier in #ft
1/2 in breaker bar with a pipe over it
Take your bathroom scale and step on it.
3 ft up the pipe from the nut press down on the bar until you have moved your weight back 115 #
You now have 345 ft# of torque on the nut.
Bruce

I'm pissed at myself for not thinking of this. Excellent - saves buying a BF torque wrench. You may need a 3/4" setup if you don't want to break your 1/2" BB.

[Jesse16]

My decent quality Craftsman or Kobalt 1/2" has held fine the several times I've worked on mine. Just put the pressure on downward if you think it'll break. Break it, take it back for a free replacement !