Which Oxygen Sensor?
 

For an 86 3.2, cat delete, SSI and SW chip 93 Octane.

Thanks

Anybody?

Stock Bosch.

The "cat delete, SSI and SW chip 93 Octane" part makes no difference. The O2 sensor is there to tell the computer when the mixture is at "lambda". That doesn't change with modifications, it is simply a function of air/fuel ratio.
See -> Graphs

You can use a 1996 Ford Taurus O2S, same exact fitment with 3 wires, just cut and splice. Much cheaper the OEM spec. it is also BOSCH :D

Thanks guys

I got a new (fitted less then 1000 miles ago) Bosch 13924 Oxygen Sensor, OE Type Fitment but someone mentioned that I maybe running a bit rich (very black muffler pipe inside also less then 1000 miles), so I started to wonder...

I just installed the 13924 on my 89 3.2. I don't think that would be the issue. I checked the voltage by jumping from the sensor to the harness. My voltages while connected was .5V. That tells me the dme was doing its job. When disconnected the sensor had varying readings. I may be wrong but that's my logic.

Maybe the male side is not making contact in the female side?

rich running condition may not be due to your O2 sensor, it could also be an incorrect air/fuel mixture.

IIRC, the sensors on the SC's had crappy connectors. Have you checked all your connections and tested with a VOM?

Jim...do you have the info needed to do the splice (which wire...where)

this is great to know! I might try this

Draco, how much cheaper?

Stone

Not on this Franken...

JJ

yeah JJ, I forgot about your 3.2....sorry about that.

Honestly, just my opinion....Pelican has a "plug-n-play" Bosch replacement for our 3.2's, but it's twice as much as the "universal" Bosch replacement.

I used the universal replacement a few years ago. It involves splicing into the existing connector. I feel I did a good job, but after the fact, I just don't feel comfortable with all the splicing involved. Why? Most electricians cringe when you use a lot of splicing when doing an electrical job, I guess the opinion is that you just have that many more "breaks" in your circuit.

I never pass smog, but I also don't have any idle issues. Maybe one of these days I'll do a quick disconnect while the motor is running and warm, just to see if there's any change in the idle. That would probably tell me a lot.

Just my .02 cents, JJ....carry on.

Be careful guys.. All O2 sensors for various applications are not setup with the same base sensing range.. Example... Pre-2004 Subaru is ~5 ma sensing where as post 2004 is 0.5 ma at A/F= 18.

Simply taking a sensor off another OE model may not give you the same end result.

I've always wondered about the splices. The voltage generated by the sensor is not much, less than 1V DC, so I'd think any change in the resistance of the wire would have an effect on it. I'd wonder what some of the splices I've seen would do to the wire resistance...

What's the cost of a correct O2 sensor, less than half a cent a mile?


JR

Bosche one wire at o'riellys, 20 bucks.

Is that like a Rotex watch for 10 bucks on Canal Street in NYC? :D

$40, at FLAPS, I doubled checked with the assistance of a DME guru we all know and love. I would have never done that otherwise.

Simply cut and solder/heat shrink, for us 3.2's try very hard not to crumble the OEM sensor connector if at all possible. If not no biggy just get a female/male bullet connector. I used a 3/8" rubber hose to help it mount on the OEM holder :D