Newbie attacking rear bearings, need help please

[whiz05403]

OK, loosened lug nuts, jacked up car, removed wheel, blank stare.

I have read over and over the rear bearing thread and it never refers to how to get the drive shaft out of the way.

I have looked up drive shaft removal as well.

What is the best way to get the drive shaft out of the way?

87 Carrera. Thanks

Mike

[ivangene]

remove the center cap on your wheel, put the wheel back on and lower the car - loosen that big azz nut ini the middle....

on the transmission end there are socket head cap screws x6 remove them lower that end, remove nut, slide out


IIRC - I am going by memory so might not be exact....should get you looking in the right places though

[Rot 911]

What Ed said. That big axle nut is torqued to around 320 lbs. so you might need a cheater bar to get it off. Also helps to remove the bottom shock bolts to move the shock out of the way.

[whiz05403]

OK, going out side now to remove big azz 30mm bolt. Might be getting in over my head here...........

[whiz05403]

Big azz bolt was surprisely easy to loosen. Need to find socket head cap screw tools for shaft now.

[will hung]

Just follow the axle back to the transmission. Helps to have a helper to pull the e-brake on and off as you rotate the axle. Take your time on these 6 bolts. Get your self a new allen head socket and make sure it's fully seated before turning to break them loose. They are very easy to strip, and once they're stripped, it's a major pain to get them out.

[Dublinoh]

When you put it back together be sure to torque the six hex caps properly. I've read several threads where these backed out and did major damage. You might want to read this article on rear bearings on a 930...similar:

Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Rear 930 Bearings

[whiz05403]

OK, now I'm down to this:



The six tranny allen bolts were on tight but cooperative. Had to disconnect shock absorber next to trailing arm, needed breaker bar for that. Also the lower caliper bolt is not the easiest to remove.

From the pic, do I need to remove the ebrake cable? And how? Also, when I pulled off the rotor I tried to put it back just to see how hard that will be and it didn't seem to go on quite right. Also, there are two bearing races in there???

Next I need to remove the braking assembly then I guess the dreaded hub.

I'm in very deep for my skill set, right now I just hope I can line everything all up again.

[whiz05403]

Re-reading the Bearing Removal thread and looking at the pics compared to my pic, have I already removed the hub?

[SCOTITUDE]

remove 4 bolts and bearing plate, should come off without removing brake assembly. press out bearing, comes out towards outside. just did this last week when i snapped an axle. pics in a minute.

[Dublinoh]

When you are ready to install the caliper, push back the pads into the caliper. Keep your eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir: it can overflow when you push back on the pistons.

Pelican Technical Article: Replacing Brake Pads - 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89)

[SCOTITUDE]

yes, hub it out, it was piece with wheel studs in it

[will hung]

Correct, your hub is already removed.

There is only 1 outer bearing race. You can see the 2 inner's in the pic. Usually when I pull rear bearings, the inner race sticks to the hub, how did you pull yours?

[Brando]

You may want to get one of these: Wheel Bearing & Hub Kit for Porsche-SIR Tools B90-P | eBay

Seriously makes any wheel bearing job easier.

[CCM911]

Whiz. You are so close. Do you have a Bentley to take you the rest of the way?

[whiz05403]

After I unbloted the caliper I just pulled with my hands on the rotor and the whole hub/rotor came off. So the races usually stay on the hub?





I'll do the brake assembly in a couple of hours, thanks for the quick responses.

[SCOTITUDE]

Brando is dead on. that is the tool i used, makes bearing and hub removal and installation a breeze. keeps you from wrecking a $70 bearing.





here is one tip. after you press in the new bearing and are going to press in the hub. remember to support the back side of the bearing with a plate or cover or you will blow out the rear side of the bearing. the magic tool has these plates.

[SCOTITUDE]

you didnt remove the rotor screw securing rotor to hub. need to separate for installation. and yes the race usually stays on when removed but needs to be pressed off before install.

[ivangene]

what brought about this replacement....

hate to break up the fun - since you are passed the point of no return...but a loose axle nut CAN be the source of a heck of a lot of noise in the wheel bearing area

work of caution - DONT FORGET to put the parking brake assy on BEFORE inserting the hub into your new bearing - when you get there

getting that old race off the hub can be a challenge AND check the hub condition - replace if neccesary.

you have a great start...keep going!

[whiz05403]

Originally Posted by SCOTITUDE

you didnt remove the rotor screw securing rotor to hub. need to separate for installation. and yes the race usually stays on when removed but needs to be pressed off before install.

So just that one little rotor screw. Is it absolutley nesessary to separate for assembly?