Ok to block off oil warning sender

[75Carrera]

The 88 3.2 motor in my 75 Carrera has a leaky oil warning light sender. I've replaced it twice. Still leaks. These things often leak from new. AnyBody ever deleted this sender and blocked the hole? Does it really matter?

[bfunke]

It depends if you have a gauge and how much you value your engine.

[75Carrera]

Originally Posted by bfunke

It depends if you have a gauge and how much you value your engine.

Value my engine? Duh! I asked this question to solicit advice on possible ways to block this leaker and/or possibly learn about alternative gauge replacements. But thanks for stating the obvious.
Anybody have "helpful" suggestions?

[KTL]

You can install an adapter fitting that converts the metric threads to an NPT plug. JB Racing sells one part number 131-035

JBRacing Image

It converts M18 x 1.5 threads to 1/8 NPT for adapting common gauge installations. You can then install an NPT inhex plug and you're all set.

BAT Inc. also sells one on page 4 http://208.109.215.220/files/metric.pdf or you can install their M18 plug on that page.

An alternative warning light is a good thing to have. The factory warning only comes on at zero oil pressure. That's obviously a bad thing. You can install a pressure sender that is preset at 20 psi and that gives you some warning before the pressure drops to nothing.

[75Carrera]

Thank you Kevin. Very helpful. Adding a pressure warning gauge that actually provides intelligent information makes sense. Without that the idiot light seems pretty useless.
Have you made this change yourself? Where did you buy and where did you install the new gauge in the car? Pictures would be great.
All this can be done with the motor in the car right?
Checking with JBR & BAT. Thanks man!!!

[Winter]

If you're going to use an adapter and then plug the hole in the threaded adapter, couldn't you just use the correct sized metric bolt, provided it's short enough to not block the oil passage? Just seems simpler that way, although the adapter's ability to allow for a variety of gauge applications is interesting. It's seems like a good way to be able to add an additional sensor and gauge if needed.

Good luck stopping the leak. I'm dealing with a few myself.

[KTL]

I think you can do it with the engine in the car. But I think you'll want to get the intake manifold out of the way. It's pretty tight behind there with the big six legged spider manifold in your face. You might be able to get back there if you remove whatever air cleaner housing and air flow meter you have on the engine.

I think you can eliminate the factory warning light and cook up something pretty easy. You just need to find an adjustable/preset oil pressure warning light switch and adapt it to the case fitting. If i'm not mistaken, the factory case fitting is a M18 x 1.5 to M10 x 1.0. The M10 x 1.0 is little tough to adapt to, since its more commonly used for brake fittings. So I think you're wise to replace the case fitting with one that has 1/8 NPT threads to fit a wide variety of pressure senders

Here's a bunch of pressure senders of varying high/low pressure settings if you wanted to do that.

Pressure - Universal - Warning Light Sending Units - SummitRacing.com


An electronic gauge to replace my mechanical gauge is on my never ending list of to-do's for the racecar. My installation is a mechanical gauge install with a makeshift brass plumbing tee tapped into the case. The tee was cut to NPT threads and adapted into an M18 case fitting. On the left side of the tee is a low pressure warning light switch (20 psi) and the other side of the tee has the AN-4 braided hose that goes up front to the dashboard gauge where the VDO clock usually is found



In this link is a picture of the case plumbing

Engine Case Breather- Giant AN-20

It's a very cost-effective, basic installation that could use much improvement.

If I was starting from scratch, i'd use an electric gauge so you don't have to run the oil hose all the way thru the cabin. I'd get a gauge that has the warning built into it.

I really like the look of the Stack brand gauges.

Stack Gauges ST3502 - Stack Pro-Control Stepper Motor Analogue Gauges - Overview - SummitRacing.com

and it has settings for minimums and maximums and the lighting changes accordingly.

More traditional gauge is the AutoMeter stuff

Auto Meter 3652 - Auto Meter Sport-Comp II Pro-Control Analog Gauges - Overview - SummitRacing.com

and there is no hassle with multiple adapter fittings.

The thing I like about these electronic gauges (for my purpose in the racecar) is they get rid of the mech. oil supply hose and they integrate the OH SHIAT warning light into the gauge. No need for a separate adjustable pressure switch because it's built into the gauge electronics. The electric stepper motor gauges are not cheap, but they simplfy installation with integration.

[75Carrera]

Good stuff Kevin. Exactly what I needed. I can't thank you enough. If this part goes in and seals properly I'll have a dry motor again. Jay Moore built this 3.2 with all the right stuff. No cats and a modified two out exhaust sounds mean. I have a cut off for the second out when I want to quiet it down. "Quiet it down" Yea right!
I don't race with the fender to fender boys but love the track for DE and open track days.
Thanks again... Donny