Caliper removal on an 83 SC

[83_Silberpfeil]

Planning a brake upgrade project --- first part of a few parts.

I'd like to remove the calipers on my 83 SC and send to Eric @ PMB for refurb/rebuild --- and get back to factory specs and looks .

I also want to remove the existing flex brake lines (I think they are rubber) and replace with new rubber ones from our host.

I'm looking for help on the following Qs ...

1) when removing calipers and brake lines, how do I prevent or at least minimize brake fluid spillage/spraying all over the place? What is the best practice here?

2) How do I plug the brake hard line --- until I get the rebuilt calibers back and ready for install? Do I use some sort of a plug or fitting?

3) After removing the 4 calipers and brake lines, and say I successfully plug all the hard lines, then I plan on mounting the 4 wheels back and push the car back to the garage and park, with trans in 1st gear, and e-brake applied. Is this a safe thing to do? Should I be worried about the car rolling away?

Much thanks in advance! Really excited to get into the more intricate parts of the car.

[Packet82]

1) A 2x4 to press the brake pedal an inch or two will stop the fluid from leaking out.

2) You don't, just drain the system and flush it once everything is back together

3) You should be fine. The brakes aren't applied normally when parked, but you can chock the wheels if you want an added layer of safety.

[Andy911sc]

1. if you are going through all the trouble of new rotors, new pads and rebuilt calipers. I would just let the lines gravity drain completely and replace with all new fluid when going back together with everything.

2. answered above

3. You will not be able to apply the parking brake with out having a rotor on there just an fyi. If you have the rear rotors in place, parking brake applied and in gear, you will not have to worry about it rolling away.

good luck on the work and post some pictures of your progress.

[James Brown]

wait on removing the rubber hose and put a small vice-grip on the hoses. or any of the above.

[tazzieman]

Originally Posted by James Brown

wait on removing the rubber hose and put a small vice-grip on the hoses. or any of the above.

I use the grips with a short length of fuel hose slid over the serrated ends to prevent "injury" to the hose. That said , I recently invested in a pair of those special hose clamps as nothing beats "the right tool for the job".

[JJ 911SC]

Did the whole job over the winter.

Do spray and let soak PB blaster at the joint of the flexible line and the rigid one. I did an overnight soak and they came off like butter... Make sure you got a set of flare wrench.

Good time to clean and repaint the dust plate.

Take a good look at the E-brake hardwares, 2 of my 4 expanders (1 per side) were broken, no wounder I had no e-brake. The adjustment, onc you put the rotors back is easy.

[na2ub]

I just had all mine off. I tend to rubberband a piece of plastic bag around the ends of the disconnected lines. Make sure your master cylinder doesn's get so low as to suck some air it, while you are disconnecting the brakes. I even pinched the overflow tube on the master, so it would not drain freely (kind of like holding your finger over the end of a straw filled with water).

Even after all that, I still had to bleed multiple times after reinstalling. I am currently driving the car, after the brakes were bled to a 70% functional level, to work loose the last air bubbles, then I will bleed again soon to get back to 100%.

[83_Silberpfeil]

What would I be waiting for?

wait on removing the rubber hose and put a small vice-grip on the hoses. or any of the above.

[vash]

i'd let it drain out.

why do folks love good looking calipers? i simply rebuild them for function. wont they get dirty the first time you hit the brakes?

[euro911sc]

This would be an optimal time to move to a full Carrera system. It is bolt on and gives you a thicker rotor. I believe the pads to be the same. What this does is give you more rotor to wear before replacing and also, if you track the car at all, more mass that isn't the brake fluid to absorb heat. It is almost impossible to tell the differnce by looking at them through a wheel unless you are a Porsche brake specialist.

Perhaps erik will take your SC cores and send back Carreras?

-Michael

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks for all the advice and recommendations.

I'm going to try to tackle this job in the next few weekends.

[na2ub]

Originally Posted by 83_Silberpfeil

What would I be waiting for?

I believe he meant that removing the caliper from the end of the rubber line, and leaving the rubber line attached to the hard line, gives you the opportunity to use vice grips or the like, to pinch shut the rubber line. Since you are getting new rubber, you can leave the old rubber lines on until you are ready to reassemble, thus giving you a way to close the system with vice grips.

[Jdub]

One aspect of doing the work ourselves is purchasing the right tools. You MUST purchase a set of flare wrenches for this job. So many have rounded the soft nuts on the hard lines thinking they could get it done - a world of sorrow there. Don't be that guy.

[James Brown]

thanks na2ub, you don't want to drain the fluid out by just opening the system and letting it drain. Moisture gets in there and bleeding the master cylinder in the car is doable but time consuming.