How long to replace tensioners

[matt gineo]

How many hours should it take a good P mechanic to replace the original type chain tensioners on my 76 2.7?

[bassfishman]

I did mine in four hours

[matt gineo]

Thanks

[Grady Clay]

Matt,

There are two other BIG factors when considering this ‘simple’ job:
Is all the hardware fresh or rusted?
What are the “While-you-are-there” operations?


With a ‘fresh’ ’49-state’ ’76 911, a skilled mechanic with all the tools and parts at-hand can probably half the time bassfishman reported.
If the ’76 is a California emissions car, untouched for decades and/or had some PO mis- (mal-?) serviced, then all bets are off.
It can take days to recover from the ravages to time and environment or from some mal-handed person working on your 911.
You will find some “worst case” scenarios posted so ‘be prepared’.

This is why it is so important to do operations properly. YOU may be the next person there.
This is also why it is important to document your work for the next ‘caretaker’ of your 911 when you pass.
There is great value in this documentation.


As important are the “While-you-are-there” necessary replacement of all six chain ramps.
You need to assess the usefulness of replacing the chain housing-to-crankcase gaskets along with the gasket & O-ring to the cam housings.
You will want to update to the latest ‘Turbo’ tensioner and the 2-bearing idler arms. (I’m not a proponent for necessary updating to the ‘Carrera’ tensioners.)
Your magnesium chain housings can have the large support pin for the tensioner and idler are become loose. This requires repair.
It is not uncommon to find the M5 studs threads ‘pulled’ in the chain housing casting, needing repair.
It is usual to replace the cam oil lines.
You will need all the little aluminum ‘sealing rings’.
Be sure to confirm the cam timing before you turn the engine. (You need to practice this ability before you open the chain covers.)


One of the “arts & skills” of a well prepared shop is the ability to fix the unexpected.
Your 1976 911 is now 37 years old. How many PO? How many mechanics have touched it?
You or any shop must be prepared to repair any and every prior short-cut and misstep.
Since it is difficult to have this ‘at-home’ capability, have previously qualified back-up in place.


I don’t want to dissuade you from doing this relatively simple service.
It is easy.
Be prepared to make “everything right” when you finish.
There is great satisfaction in having the job ‘done right’.

Best,
Grady

[matt gineo]

Thanks Grady , I appreciate the helpful and very thorough advice. I'll definitely check the "while I'm in there items" The car is very clean, 60,000 miles and rust free so I think I may luck out with this job.
I've decided not to update to the Carrera tensioners and stay with the original type. I did not see Turbo Tensioners on the Pelican site, do you know where I can find them?

[bassfishman]

If you are not going to upgrade to the oil fed tensioners and the ones you have are in good condition, check your ramps and put the tensioner guards on. If you have a failure they will prevent damage. Thats what I did.

[matt gineo]

Originally Posted by bassfishman

If you are not going to upgrade to the oil fed tensioners and the ones you have are in good condition, check your ramps and put the tensioner guards on. If you have a failure they will prevent damage. Thats what I did.

Thanks Bass, will do.