Front Boge shock insert removal

[rcaradimos]

I dropped both front struts today and would like some opinions on what my findings are. 87 w/ Boge

1. I can push shock shaft all the way to the bottom an hear it bottom out, pretty easy.

2. Shaft rises about 4" very slow in about 12 sec. then stops

3. I can pull it the rest of the way to the top again with clunk and that doesn't take to much effort either.

4. Some play on shaft side to side at top, middle and low positions

Spent or what?

Do new inserts come with shaft fully extended and if I push them down will they rebound all the way back up?

Next would be to remove gland nut ( with pipe wrench ?) remove old insert and oil then put in some HD Bilsteins?

Do I use old gland nut or does new inserts come with new nut?
Thanks in advance
Bob

[KCinBR]

Cant say about the condition of your strut inserts but if they are the orignal ones, I would replace them.
The gland nuts you will re-use and yes you can use a pipe wrench or like I did a large pair of channelocks.

I replaced mine with Koni's, most on this board seem to prefer Bilstiens. But I got a good buy on the Koni's, and they made a huge difference in handling.

Good luck.....................KC

[rnln]

I have not played with a P strut off the car yet but on any car, if you can puch down or raise the shaft easy, it's gone.
Could I ask how is the bounce test when it was on the car?

[ianc]

If you go the Bilstein route, they should come with new nuts. Mine didn't.

If the inserts are original, replace them. And the rears too...

ianc

[valenciacarrera]

I used to work for Boge. From what you are describing, you are low on damping fluid and compression valve is spent. Like other folks said, I would recommend getting a set of new inserts. For the price, Bilstein works pretty well. Plus, if you call their tech support, they will mail you a gland nut wrench free of charge.

[rcaradimos]

rnln
T-Bars have so much spring that the bounce test seems fine. If I pull on the bumper left to right it seemed to wiggel and bounce around. Took a run up to NHIS for a PCA event and the ride up and back just seemed harsh. Also suspension is key if I want to registar for a DE event, hope to later this year.
ianc
I think the play in the shock shaft is what gives me that clunk and loose feeling over bad roads. The gland nut is tight, they must be worn-out. You know I'm talking myself into replacement of the fronts and yes the backs too. So far not a bad DIY project.
Before I pull out the inserts I want to see how the new ones react compared to what I have. Will new inserts push the shaft to full extention? What I have only comes back up about 3/4" real slow after it's pushed al the way down. HD Bilsteins should be the right ones for stock set-up.
Thanks,
Bob

[valenciacarrera]

Bilsteins are gas charged. Which means they will extend all the way back. Depending on front weight of your vehicle, you might want to lower front end a bit since, Bilsteins gas pressure is higher than Boge spec. I would also suggest replace rears with same brand at the same time. It's just easier to do corner balance and alignment after replacing all four. Besides, you might not like the ride if rears are in same condition as fronts.

[KFC911]

The first thing I did on my car was new Bilsteins (HDs/front, Sports/rear), and I couldn't believe the difference it made. I could compress the old Boges by hand fairly easy (to clear the wheel well arch), and it was a bear to compress the new ones. I had to compress/decompress them several times (using my body weight and a block of wood on top of the shaft) against the floor before I could do it by hand with the insert in the strut.

[rcaradimos]

valenciacarrera,
Should I let the new shocks settle in before I look at ride hieght and corner balance?
Rebuilt calipers over winter, new tierod ends, new Kuhmo SPT and alighment.
Thanks guy's, I will be calling our host today to order.
Bob

[valenciacarrera]

I wouldn't worry too much about settle them in. When the shock is brand new, the piston rod seal has to 'break-in' to reach a proper friction level. However, most people won't even notice it and it won't affect the ride height.

Enjoy.

[Wil Ferch]

valenciacarrera....be clear....the ride height won't change comparing a sightly broken-in Bilstein to when that Bilstein was first installed.

There will indeed be a raising of the ride height ( maybe 1/2" or more) using Bilsteins compared to low pressure gas Boges or compared to hydraulic Boges...

- Wil

[valenciacarrera]

You are correct. What's the I suggested redoing corner balance with all four dampers replaced in first place. Thanks for pointing that out though.

[rcaradimos]

Ordered the parts, I chose the Boge. Ride height should not be effected, and our host commented that Boge technology has improved in the past eighteen years and ride would be better then new from factory.
I haven't upgraded to larger T-Bars and just feel that if the shocks are to stiff the car would roll and rise in cornering vs. sit and stay level.
Hope the T-bars, sway bars and shocks are a good match.
I'll post after install.
Thanks again
Bob

[rcaradimos]

valenciacarrera,
Thanks

[carreraken]

Bob,

Let us know how the Boge's work out.. I'm curious.

[88911coupe]

I have a question which I think is shock related. I was looking at replacing the left A Arm bushings and removed them but then decided they weren't that bad so put them back on. I had a little trouble with the ride height but finally solved that issue. Note that at some times the shock was extended VERY far when things were apart. I have noticed a substantial firmness in the left front wheel when going over speed bumps. I determined this by driving over the speed bumps with only one tire at a time. The right front which was not disturbed seems like it always did...the left front is substantially stiffer and seems to firmly land on the downside of speedbumps. Have I somehow affected the shock? Or, is this related to a torsion bar issue? Note the ride height is dead on what it needs to be.
Thanks