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CJN STIG
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I have a peculiar problem with my outer door handle...
Hey guys,
I have a weird problem with my outer driver side door handle: I cannot lock the car from the outside using the key. I CAN unlock it though. I CAN both lock and unlock the car from the passenger side using the key. Having to walk around to the passenger side to lock the car after parking=not cool!! Has anyone else run into this problem? I'm wondering if the problem is with my door handle, or if it's an electrical problem somewhere else. Any ideas? Thanks! |
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RETIRED
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Try turning the key over and/or give a shot of dry lube or graphite.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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CJN STIG
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Hey Joe,
The key is not stuck or hindered in any way. The key will rotate both clockwise and counter-clockwise, but nothing happens for the clockwise lock rotation... |
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RETIRED
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Then I would open up the door panel and futz about inside. If all looks good then it's the hnadle itself.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 419
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I assume you have power locks.
If so there is a micro switch on the door handle, it is most likely faulty. Here's the switch: Pelican Parts - Product Information: 964-613-134-00-M100 |
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Registered
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You can unlock the door with the key because there's an adjustable trip lever on the back of the handle mechanism which pushes against the lock mechanism when the trigger is pulled. This is good, because adjusting it is a frustrating process. The wire harness that's part of the microswitch has three conductors: brown ground lead, and one each for the lock and unlock direction of the lock operating solenoid. The microswitch itself may be defective (it's rotary in nature), in which case you're better off replacing it. Or, it could be something as simple as the plastic harness connector being partially unplugged. If the PO or a bodyshop dude has messed with it in order to remove the handle for painting or replacing the rubber seal, they may have cut the leads and fit them out with crimp-type connectors, possibly of the male/female variety which can be disconnected for ease of removal, in which case one might have dislodged.
A simple volt/ohmmeter test for continuity will show if the switch is faulty. Set the meter to ohms, put one test lead to the switch's brown wire, and the other to one of the leads (one's green and the other yellow IIRC), and twist the key while looking for a 0-ohm dead short. If both leads from the switch test reliably good, then you've ID'd the lock switch as being good, in which case you're troubleshooting the wiring toward the solenoid. |
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CJN STIG
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Now we're cooking with fire.
That microswitch seems like a great place to start. Thanks guys! |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 1,107
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Those things (micro-switch) are expensive $58. I have been thinking about deleting the auto door locks.
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CJN STIG
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Update:
I took off the door card and had a root around in there. The problem: The switch was not plugged in! I simply plugged it back in and it works like a charm. Thank God I didn't spring for the part first... |
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Registered
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Great! I was wondering what the disposition was. Thanks for posting.
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RETIRED
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Good for you....I just figured out why my power windows were popping fuses. Some dumass was putting in 8 amps fuses when it called for 25.
The dumass has been fired....
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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