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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 87
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No start when hot. Starter? Solenoid?
1982 911 SC.
I am having a very occasional no-start when hot. Recently, a 95 degree day + 3 hour trip + gas stop = no start. At first, I thought I heard nothing, no click, but it could have been that the fuel pump plus traffic noise was just masking it. Later, I definitely heard a faint click. Seems like this problem is usually attributed to two factors:
Is it really a combination of these two items? If the starter solenoid is sticking due to heat soak, but works 99% of the time, might the extra voltage with the hot-start bypass push the solenoid past the sticking point? I'm willing to replace the starter with a Pelican sourced high-torque starter, but it obviously would be simpler and much less expensive to put in the hot-start relay plus maybe new tranny and battery ground cables if it would do the trick. Since the problem occurs so rarely already, 'install it and try it' probably isn't going to tell me much. Has anybody installed the hot-start kit and continued to have heat-soak no-start problems? |
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Get off my lawn!
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On my factory original starter if it got a heat soak it would lock up. When the repair shop took it apart they said it was "very dry" on the bearings. After it was lubed up it worked fine for a while. Then it went back to lockup when hot. I finally just replaced it. The repair shop could not get the rear bearing out because he did not have the proper puller.
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Glen 49 Year member of the Porsche Club of America 1985 911 Carrera; 2017 Macan 1986 El Camino with Fuel Injected 350 Crate Engine My Motto: I will never be too old to have a happy childhood! |
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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Plunger on the bendix gear is sticking. The solenoid is not strong enough to pull against it when it heat soaks and expands making the problem worse. Because the solenoid can not pull against it the solenoid does not close and make the motor turn.
If you take them apart you will find the grease all dried up. you also need to lightly sand the oxide off the plunger and the housing so that they slide very free. Lube the bearings and bushings while you have it it apart. I have done this on several starters with excellent results. Fastest way to fix is replace the starter.
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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Been here a while
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: East coast, west coast, typ. 35,000 ft
Posts: 2,441
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hi torque starter from our host will fix all your troubles.
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looking for 1972 911t motor XR584, S/N 6121622 |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 87
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What everyone has said makes perfect sense. But the inner engineer in me is wondering is still wondering if the hot-start relay isn't also a solution....
Is seems only when all three of these conditions exist does the no-start problem rear it's ugly head... I'll jack it up and check the solenoid trigger terminal voltage vs. the starter main power terminal voltage. If there is a significant drop, I might try just putting more power to the solenoid, via the relay and hopefully to overcome the dry lube/heat expansion problems. If there isn't a significant voltage drop, new Starter. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 87
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Read another discussion of the same situation, and a test that makes sense.
If you have a hot-no-start condition, and if JUMP starting from another running vehicle starts the car, then a hot start relay will also likely fix the problem. Turning the key alone uses battery voltage, about 12.6V if the battery is completely charged... When jump starting, you are using the alternator output voltage of the other vehicle, around 14V. So if a 1.5V increase in voltage will engage a hot/sticky solenoid, eliminating a similar voltage drop to the solenoid should also work. Suppose I'm overthinking this a bit?? ![]() Last edited by pfbz; 07-24-2012 at 05:56 PM.. |
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RETIRED
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The 914s were particularly vulnerable to the hot start problem. Mid engine, exhaust passing under the trans mounted starter on the way to the rear.....trust me, the problem is well documented and discussed to death.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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RETIRED
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Deeply profound.....
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Mine got hot on a Summer trip a year ago and would not start in the mountains. I push started it and got it home put it on jackstands and cleaned all the starter wires with contact cleaner. (took them off, put them on) They were very filthy. Then I got my rawhide mallet and gave it a few good whacks. Started right up and has been working for a year now.
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