cv joints, how much time

na2ub · 08-01-2012, 05:20 AM

I messed up and ordered the cv joint kit instead of 2 half axles.

I will be in there anyway, with the rear wheel bearings. How much of a pain in the butt is it to install 4 new cv joints / boots, etc. on my old axles? I am tempted to send it all back and purchase the half axles, but Im sure I will just get er done.

CCM911 · 08-01-2012, 06:46 AM

As long as you can unbolt the CVs from both sides(I can do this on my 84 3.2, not sure about SCs) it is not a big deal at all. They are held on by a snap-ring which is pretty easy to remove.

The only pain is greasing them as you need to jam in a bunch of bearing grease and it is a filthy job no matter how you slice it. But not difficult at all. You will be fine. Did you order the grease as well?

na2ub · 08-01-2012, 07:27 AM

Yeah. Its the Pelican kit, that comes with 4 cv, 4 boots, a few gaskets, new bolts, grease, and some pins and clips. I am kicking myself for not ordering the half axles, for only a few bucks more. The new kit says the bolts need a 12 point driver to install them. I though the old bolts were allen head? I think the cvs are the same up till 85.

HawgRyder · HawgRyder's Garage

When you do the job...think operating room clean!!
Any dirt...no matter how small will render the joints bad in no time at all.
Bob

KTL · 08-01-2012, 09:13 AM

Yep remanufactured axles are usually your best bet in terms of time and cleanliness of install. But you already realize that......

The CVs can sometimes be stubborn coming off the axle shaft splines. You may have to put them in a vise and then tap on the CV inner race with a drift and a hammer. The boots are easy on these old style axles. Just slip the small end over the shaft and secure it in place with a plastic tie wrap/zip strip. You don't even need to use the metal band clamps. I've used zip strips on my cars for years at the track and have never seen a boot go out of place.

In all honesty do yourself a favor and don't use the grease that comes with the CV joint kits. OEM grease is cheap stuff. Get some good high quality synthetic CV joint grease at the local parts store. It will extend the life of your CV joints for not a whole lot of money. Most importantly IMO when you're packing the CVs is to get grease in all the tight spaces between the races and the ball bearings. Rock it back and forth and in/out a lot to ensure you get full coverage inside the joint.

Then when you are ready to install, make sure to clean out the holes in the CV for the bolts. Swab them out with some q-tips and also make sure your bolt holes on the transmission and trailing arm are clean- hose them out with brake or carb cleaner. Your bolts should be DRY when you torque them. Oily greasy dirty bolts are the ones that end up coming loose and ruining your day. ESPECIALLY on these older style CVs that use M8 bolts.

Dry is easier said than done considering all the grease you've got sticking out of the end of the CV joint when you're trying to install the axle!

na2ub · 08-01-2012, 12:13 PM

Thanks for the info. KTL, I don't have the parts yet, but could I put some small pieces of tape over the bolt holes, while I am greasing the bearings, then remove when it is time to bolt them on?

KTL · 08-01-2012, 12:44 PM

Good idea with the tape. Give it a try. This is one of those jobs that is really difficult to do without getting messy. Rubber gloves, lotsa paper or shop towels, some black plastic garbage bags to use as dropcloths for your work area,...... all help to minimize the mess

The good thing is that your starting with new parts. So mess is reduced substantially by not having to degrease the old CVs.

Targa Me · Targa Me's Garage

Leave the rear wheel bearing alone unless they are bad. Boy, talk about a PITA !

sparkle84 · 08-01-2012, 03:02 PM

Seeing as its virtually impossible to get those suckers reinstalled without getting any grease in the bolt holes & threads I don't even try anymore. Just get everything reasonably clean while it's apart, get them bolted up & torque them to 5 lbs. less than the spec. Then take each bolt out one at a time, spray the hole with brake cleaner, blow it out with compressed air, clean the bolt & reinstall then torque to final spec. Then you know for sure they're all clean. Also probably quicker than trying to get them installed grease free, particularly if you don't have a lift & are under the car.

Good Luck, Steve