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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
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1977 911 Brakes... HELP!!!
Hi folks,
I'm a first timer here. I took my buddy's 1977 911 out of storage, it's perfect, I got it running fine. It's not a turbo or a targa, just the S model. He wants to put good brakes on it. I'm having trouble finding info. We looked at a big Brembo kit, but then he has to buy 17" wheels... fine, but I can't find any info on the offset, etc. Can anybody help with that? OR... is there a good brake kit that will fit under the 15" stock wheels? OR... are the stock brakes really good brakes to begin with? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Joe |
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07-31-2012, 01:32 PM
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Joe,
Stock brakes are plenty good unless you put some nasty motor in there. Probably be a good idea to go through them and replace hoses and anything else that is bad. Best, Rutager
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Rutager West 1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown |
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07-31-2012, 01:36 PM
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
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Perfect! That's what I wanted to hear. We looked at an engine upgrade, and a transaxle, and brakes, and wheels, etc. ... frankly it's cheaper and easier to buy another car. I did suggest that he leave it as is. It's in immaculate shape, it does have an added whale tail.
Thank you very much for your quick reply. |
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07-31-2012, 01:41 PM
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Max Sluiter
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The stopping power of the current brakes will be fine if you make sure that the pistons move freely and replace the fluid and hoses (assuming it has been sitting a while).
The limiting factor in how long it takes to stop will be the tires.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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07-31-2012, 02:47 PM
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
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Thank you. I realize the tires are important as well, I've seen it on my S2000, some tires just stick to the road like glue! As for the brakes, we'll get all new rotors because the originals, while they look perfect, are sticking a little. I don't want to mess with brakes, it's not a good place to save cash.
Thank you folks. I'll order new stock today. |
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08-01-2012, 12:25 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 2,307
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Don't understand what you mean by sticking rotors. If anything is sticking, it could be the calipers, which could almost certainly use a rebuild if you suspect they are many years old. If you can do this yourself the kits are cheap. Lots of info here on the job. Or, more likely, it may suggest the brake lines are old and collapsed. Again, if they look like they could be twenty years old, replace them. Measure the rotors with a micrometer to check them; if they are within spec and look good they are fine.
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jhtaylor santa barbara 74 911 coupe. 2.7 motor by Schneider Auto Santa Barbara. Case blueprinted, shuffle-pinned, boat-tailed by Competition Engineering. Elgin mod-S cams. J&E 9.5's. PMO's. 73 Targa (gone but not forgotten) |
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08-01-2012, 05:27 AM
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Max Sluiter
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Or you can send them to Eric. PMB Performance: We Don't Rebuild Your Brakes... We Restore Them
He's the best!
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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08-01-2012, 05:25 PM
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Registered
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Get some good brake pads, and you can change out the rotors with some really nice brembos or zimmerman's. Update the pistons with the stainless steel pistons and use the blue racing fluid. I did these upgrades and the brakes worked really good durng DE's and Autocross's.
I prefered the Hawk Racing pads....good stopping power without all of the noise...and I had the Zimmerman cross drilled rotors...Never had a crack or problems with them. There are kits out there that will fit the 15 inch stock wheel, but the cost to practicality factor just didnt seem to justify the purchase.
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Signature Phrase " CATCH ME IF YOU CAN" 1988 Porsche 930 "Squerly" Built by "Porsche Doc" -------------------------- 1974 Porsche 911 (2003 - 2012) 2000 Boxster S (2006 - 2008) |
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08-01-2012, 07:02 PM
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Max Sluiter
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Just stick with the normal, non-cross drilled rotors and street pads unless you are racing. The race pads take heat (some take a lot of heat) in order to work. Panic stops from cold will actually take longer with most race pads than with street pads. There is not much benefit if any with modern brake pads and cross drilling. The holes crack way too soon such that they are a liability in racing.
I have Porterfield R4S -- the "S" is important as it is their street/autocross version versus the R4 (no S) that is for racing.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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08-01-2012, 09:04 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,514
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Get a can of red spray paint... good for 500 BHP.
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JP '76 911s Ice Green Metallic bone stock |
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08-02-2012, 05:14 AM
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Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
Posts: 21,140
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I personally found stock 1977 brakes with power brakes suck when not warmed up.
I do mostly interstates and quick highways with late commuters around here so getting them warm before having to slam on them is near impossible. For me to warm them up I need three 75mph stops. I've been through the whole routine with different pads, using the 23mm master, S calipers, ss brake lines, rotating new parts, etc etc. I'm currently running four 951 7x16 & 930 calipers and rotors. different strokes.........
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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08-02-2012, 10:33 AM
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1977 Porsche 911S Targa
1971 Porsche 911S
Track Car
Squerly
