fresh start after 3 years...

[Workhorse]

I am fairly new to this forum but everyone is/seems very helpful and passionate about our hobby/obsession, so thank one and all in advance for their patience and advice!

I have inherited my Grandfather's 1974 (bought brand new from Stuttgart and delivered to Geneva Switzerland then air freighted via Lufftansa to the USA) bone stock but European specification 911. It has been in storage for the past 2-3 years and I am going to wake the old girl up! I recently bought a set of Fuchs (16X6,7) new Hankook venture V12 205/55/16's and am getting stoked!

I want some advice about pre-start up procedure(s). I am planning on changing the oil/filter, transaxle fluids. What else should I be wary/aware of upon initial start up? I have heard that I need to change the brake fluid and drain all old gas out, etc., but what other tricks of the trade should I perform to insure that the old gal fires up right and I avoid too many quirks/problems?

By the way, it has had the following treatment already...
Carrera tensioners, push rod tubes replaced/resealed, and turbo valve covers done IIRC. I just bought a 964 front fender mounted oil cooler w/fan that I will be asking you all questions for installation advice for
(yes I have already done some search button action on it!). Maybe more but nothing major comes to mind right now.

I appreciate any thoughts, advice or suggestions you all may have.

Like I said earlier, I appreciate you all on this forum for your patience and guidance, I am kind of a newb at the basics of 911 babying and am looking forward to your help and thoughts.

Thanks in advance!

Ross

P.S. I have been around Porsches all of my life. Aside from my Grandpa's 1974 911 my Dad had a 1971 911 and a 1986 911 Carrera too. Sorry for the ramble but I love this stuff!!!!

[szyzygy]

Welcome!

And please post lots of pics of your projects so the rest of us can learn.

[Workhorse]

I will post of all of my exploits/adventures for sure as I go but the damnable misery is that my 911 is sitting in storage in my folk's (secure heated clean )shop in NM and I live in CO near Ft. Collins so I can't go out and take any photos just yet. But I will for sure do before and after shots as I go! Thanks for the interest!!

Ross
Colorado

[DRACO A5OG]

Hey Ross,

Welcome, Welcome.

No need to drain the gas unless it can be done safely and not adversely effect the tank's seal. I would throw in some Fuel Stabilizer or even Seafoam to get rid of any moisture in the 3 year old fuel. Make sure you fill the tank quickly so the concentrate will not harm the rubber components in the fuel line system.

After a complete fill and use, replace the fuel filter.

After the oil change, I would hand crank it to allow oil to saturate the moving engine parts. prior to starting it.

Check the wheel bearings, repack if needed

For safety, disconnect the negative side of the battery, this is a very good practice

[manbridge 74]

Hello Ross,

I just finished reviving a 74 base model that sat for about two years. The fuel was quite smelly and I flushed everything from gas tank forward. My theory on old fuel: High temps/humidity and large temperature changes are what cause it to turn to varnish more rapidly. I even had to free up the fuel pump which was new but stuck from varnish. Fuel distributor was moderately rusty inside, which I cleaned. I also backflushed injectors.

On top of all the normal fluid replacement and priming oil system, I'd suggest:

-Remove sending unit and look for murky fuel or rust
-If bad, pump fuel out with transfer pump and gas it up
-Check for sensor arm piston for sticking to avoid filling cylinders full of gas
-Undo all injector lines and with key on(hopefully fuel pump is now running) lift sensor arm till gas flows freely from all lines until old gas is gone.
-If you notice much rust the injectors will surely have some rust in them. Check for spray pattern and equal volume in jars
-Inspect brake lines or even better replace them

With NM's low humidity maybe gas is fine so hopefully checking for stuck piston is all you need to do.

I am only about 2 hrs away from Fort Collins and would be wiling to help if you get the car up there. Would be a good excuse to get my 74 out for a spin. I'll PM you my number/email in any case.

[Workhorse]

It has been awhile since I posted an update this but finally found time to get down to do some work to my 911. I purchased basic maintenance items such as oil filter, air filter, fan belt, and 4 quarts of Kendall Hypoid gear lube from Pelican. I purchased a case of Kendall Liquid Titanium from a local lube shop as well. I had purchased a set of 16x6,7 Fuchs and put new tires on them. Here is what I had compiled thus far.


Then I went to dig out my 911 from the back of the shop.


After some maneuvering, I got it moved out to a spot where I could work on, around and underneath it.


It is covered in 3-4 years of dust and gunk from sitting.

[OsoMoore]

That color is going to look great once its washed and waxed. Good luck!

[Winter]

I can't wait to see your car at next month's coffee and cars. .

here are details:Boulder/Denver Pelicans Coffee and Cars

The event has actually moved from Ciino's to the north, same retail "zone:" but there's more parking on the north side, against Arapahoe Ave.

Good luck with this, lots of threads on waking one of these up, do a search and you'll be armed with tons of info.

[Cairo94507]

Very nice; I agree on the color too. Looks like it was stored nicely and is in good condition. Good luck.

[Workhorse]

I drained the oil and reservoir, and then drained the transaxle next. While these were draining I cleaned out the trunk, and inside the car too.


After I had drained the oil(s), I filled the oil up with Kendall Liquid Titanium and a can of MOA from BG products.


I also had some of the Lord's nectar while working in the garage. Odell Brewing-good stuff!



I then used some hose to attach to the top of the Kendall Hypoid gear lube bottle and fill the transaxle. I put the 911 on jackstands on all four corners so the fill was even and level. It took about 3 quarts or thereabouts.

I popped the gas cap off and smelled the fuel and it smelled like it had just come out of the pump. I threw in a bottle of Heet to "dry" the fuel out and will add more gasoline this morning.

Stay tuned...

[Workhorse]

Oh, I almost forgot to show a few photos of the Fuchs with new tires.

Another angle




The old bird is filthy dirty and I will be starting to clean it up soon.

[Workhorse]

This sticker is about worn out but is on the passenger side rear window.

It is kind of tough to read because the thing is so worn out but it says:

"25 years of driving in its purest form 1949-1974"

Spot on yea? Pretty neat!

Winter, I will be doing all I can to get up and out with you all for the coffee run.

Thank you for the compliments on the paint. The photos show all of the dust and gunk but underneath it is actually really shiny and in good shape. The interior is in good shape too, it just needs a little TLC I suppose.

[keitho64]

Excellent story, it is going to look fantastic when you are done. Keep us posted on the success.

I would also suggest that you carefully inspect the brake lines and you should consider flushing the brake fluid.

Good luck, can't wait to see some pictures of the car with a Colorado back drop. Do you plan to drive it back to Colorado?

[Workhorse]

I will be driving it back to Colorado, but not this weekend. I will be washing it today sometime and will post a few photos of it with a Northern New Mexico background instead.

The brakes looked OK upon inspection but it looks like I may need to do a set of pads all around in the near future. Rotors are OK as are the brake lines. I wouldn't mind replacing the brake lines with stainless braided ones.

Any recommendations on brake pads or stainless braided lines? I usually go for Factory Genuine or at least OEM manufacturer, but am open to ideas or suggestions too.

[911s55]

Great car and story, keeping it in the family. I love those original steel wheels and caps and actually prefer the 15's on narrow cars. OEM rubber brake lines are fine and allow for better inspection of condition.

BTW here is an easy and practical upgrade for your worn hood shocks, not near the pain to replace and won't wear out.

http://www.seinesystems.com/Ult-Strut-Front.htm

Have fun!

David

[NY91184]

Very cool project, love the history. make sure to keep the original parts in a safe place, a car is only original once

[manbridge 74]

Nice work. I am trying to get out to CnC as well, so maybe we can meet up then.

Both 74s I have had used SS lines so I can't comment on rubber lines on a 911 w/o power brakes. I imagine OE lines would work fine.

[KNS]

Please replace the brake lines! As mentioned, the rubber ones are fine.

[Workhorse]

Thanks for the input on the brake lines, will do. I wonder if any of you would/could suggest brake pads to get or to stay away from please? The brake system (calipers/rotors/pads) is stock FYI.

This morning, I disconnected the coil, turned the key on to let the fuel pump prime and run for a few minutes after putting new gasoline in. I cranked it over in 20 second lengths for about 5 minutes total to get the oil circulated and pressure built up. I then re-connected the coil and it fired right up! I let it run for about 10 minutes and then shut it down to continue working on it and cleaning it up. But I did back it out of the shop and give it a once-over wash job. When I get it back to Colorado, I have a detail guy that I have worked with before and trust to "restore" the paint to its original color and shine and detail the interior while he's at it. Here are a few photos.

[KNS]

Nice - love the chrome trim!