Welcome back 308079

[lrodri64]

Hi!
After a long, long search, yesterday I found my first car. It is a 1967 normal 911 that I sold it in 1987.
Good news: Original engine still exist.
bad news: Needs complete floor and underside replacement.
I still keeps the Kardex and I was the #3rd and now the #7th owner.
Yesterday, I had the opportunity to talk with the second owner (he was the owner from 1976 to 1986) and confirmed the name that I have on the Kardex of the first owner. 308079 is the VIN. At this moment Iam debating if going type R route or going original restoration (I know all pro and cons but my resources are limited at this moment and it really needs a lot of CASH to make it original). Owner #5 changed the wheels, seats, front bumper and modified the rear one. pictures of now and before included. Thanks.

[Halm]

Congratulations on finding it after the long search. No matter what you do with her now, that tail has got to go!

[mossguy]

Originally Posted by Halm

Congratulations on finding it after the long search. No matter what you do with her now, that tail has got to go!

Agree with Halm! (and congrats on the find!)

[ratpiper71T]

Congrats! Okay, +2 what in the heck is that thing on the deck lid? Close ups are in order.

[Grady Clay]

lrodri64,
ABSOLUTELY WONDERFUL!
I’m sure it took a lot of work to find.

Over the years, many have made me offers, some were hard to resist.
However, having kept my ‘original’ special ordered from PKG, ’68 911 has been worthwhile.
It’s a nice, well used, lots of history and still not needing restoration (thanks to the Colorado climate).


You correctly identified your two choices: restore to original or build to your own specifications.
I’ll encourage you to ‘rebuild’ to exactly how you want (or would have wanted Porsche K.G. to have built) your 911 when new.
Critical will be that it can never rust again.
This will take some serious effort but will allow your 911 to survive another 45 (X3?) years.
While some of this will be how your 911 is driven and stored, much will be the result of using current ‘rust-prevention’ technology.
In your tropical climate, having the humidity very low during (daily) storage is critical.

With the chassis rusted, you have the opportunity to replace pieces using later discovered procedures.
Most important will be the galvanizing, dipping process and not retaining any of the ‘sealed’ cavities in the chassis.
This isn’t easy (or inexpensive) but will make your rejuvenation effort last.

There are a ‘few’ modest improvements to a ’67 chassis that you can apply.
If I were in your situation, I would subtly convert the chassis to LWB. That's not for everyone.
At the least, attach the center of the rear torsion bar tube to the rear of the ‘tunnel’ (like ’74->).
There are a lot of details that will reflect your inclinations.
Probably most important is keeping the 911 appearing original, even though you may use later technology and components.

Whatever you decide, this won’t be quick, easy or inexpensive.
You are building a NEW ’67 911 from ‘scratch’.
This is a decade-long DIY endeavor unless you pay someone – big time.
If money is an issue (when is it not), simply start collecting the necessary spare parts.
Don’t disassemble the car until you have collected all the replacement parts and are sure you can complete the project.
If it needs to be stored, have it in a ‘sealed’ garage with a dehumidifier that can maintain as close to zero-%RH as possible.


I don’t want to dissuade you from accomplishing this project.
The enjoyment will be in the process and very much later in the result.

If you feel the “need for speed” in the interim, buy something new-ish (a 997 GT3 would do)

Best,
Grady

[lrodri64]

Thanks for all your replies...
I never thought about a LWB conversion but it is not such a bad idea.
since I only need the torsion tube. I have more pictures,

[mossguy]

Terrific! And the Tumor on the Tail appears to have been surgically removed!