Question for 2.2T owners

[ARCSinAK]

I have been working on the fuel delivery system on a 70T Barn find. Spent about 6 weeks cleaning and re-sealing the inside of the tank, had great success with the 3 step Por 15 system, I have moved on to the Zeniths just finish about 20 hours of cleaning and installing a new carb kit, quite a job, rewarding though. Anyway my question is how many of you run the simple watershield air cleaner set ups? Seems like every time I venture away from the stock set up there are issues. The original snorkel style has tubes to the oil tank, vacuum lines ect. Just curious what other have done. Now that I rebuilt the carbs I am faced with repainting the air cleaner howzing and the stacks, any advice on a simple method and what type of paint to use would be great.

Regards-

JS

[ARCSinAK]

[Grady Clay]

Keep the original.

Best,
Grady

[kkinzli]

Those carbs look great! I was toying with the idea of changing my air cleaner a few years ago but stuck with the original. You can't argue with Grady or the factory I have been quite happy keeping mine!

[gamin]

I think that if you are going to run the zeniths keep using the original air cleaner and fittings. I went to webers and watershields years ago and faced the same problems with the hoses. I jury rigged something so that I wouldn't get the oily fumes back there. You can figure something out for sure if you go to watershields. The only advantage is the glorious intake sounds you get. I run pmo's now. They come with watershields and all the hose connections at a price but I love them.

[gamin]

Oh, about paint. I would powder coat all the metal parts satin black. On the bases remove the gasket and hooks first. A good rattle can satin black for the big plastic air cleaner piece. I'd powder coat all the engine tin the same while you are at it, if you have the engine out. Engine cradle mount and cross bar too. If the stacks you refer to for painting are the velocity stacks, do not paint them. Replate them if you want, but they are not visible.

[ddubois]

I put watershields on and was able to hook up everything with the fittings they supplied. I took them off after a month because I found the sound annoying. The other nice thing about the stock air cleaner is that you can hook up the warm air supply which I feel helps the engine warm up and idle better.
Get rid of all that air enrichment plumbing and the switch on the left side carb. You don't need it. Just put vacuum plugs on all the ports. I also screw in the two enrichment adjustment screws by the diaphragm housing. The car runs perfect without that circuit.

[ARCSinAK]

Hi Doug-
Care to elaborate on which ports to plug. I took the enrichment equipment off the left carb. Screwed in the top 3/8" thick needle screw on this assemble. What is the purpose of this.

[Grady Clay]

A PO has lost or broken-off the idle adjusting screw for this #3 cylinder.
The carb should look like this (green arrow). (Sorry for the poor cut-&-paste.)




Remove the sealant and see what is there.
If it is simply a missing screw and spring, you should be able to source that.
If the part is broken off in the hole, professional extraction may be the best.
You don’t want to damage the threads in the casting.

Best,
Grady

[ARCSinAK]

Thanks Grady-

You can cut and paste all you like. I used vacuum hose for the 5 connections in the photo to the Brass tubes, when I cleaned out this assemble it looked like exhaust residue, what does this system do?The vacuum port associated with the enrichment system that is not necessary if I do not have to deal with smog checks? I just want to simplify the set up.

[Grady Clay]

Porsche calls this “Auxiliary Enrichment For Overrun Condition”.

“When the engine operates under closed-throttle, overrun conditions, partial or no combustion takes place. This results in very high hydrocarbon emissions in the exhaust gases.

The auxiliary enrichment system is activated on the overrun and provides all cylinders with the correct amount of clean fuel/air mixture to ensure combustion.

This enrichment system consists of an auxiliary mixture valve, solenoid valve and rpm transducer.

During overrun conditions, at engine speed above 1350 rpm, the rpm transducer activates a solenoid valve. This allows high vacuum to reach the diaphragm of the mixing valve, causing the valve toopen. Additional fuel/air then flows to the individual intake manifolds.

When the engine speed drops below 1300 rpm, the mixing valve closes and the idle circuit takes over.

As the throttle valves are re-opened (acceleration), a micro switch on the accelerator linkage shuts off the auxiliary enrichment device.”
From Porsche 911 Workshop Manual, Vol. I, p. SF52.

If the power to the system is removed, nothing happens and these pieces just sit there.
If you remove the system, you will need to carefully plug all the open ports.
This is best done with brass plugs of exactly the correct size for a proper press-fit without cracking the casting.
If you do this, make the plugs with a blind, tapped hole facing out for future removal for cleaning.
Carefully save all the system pieces with your car.

Best,
Grady