Remove it ALL, assemble it on a bench, put it back as 1 unit:<)

A few loose cable ties around the fuel lines and other lengthy bits hanging off the CIS helps too. Once you get everything in place you can cut them off.

1979 911 airbox
 

Ok so I should continue on pulling1-3 runners ,fuel distributor,throttle body etc
Assemble on bench . Do you ttighten all rubber boots or just 5 &6. Not afraid to try.
Just cautious
I have a lot more questions. But this will get me going.parts are ordered

If you tighten all the rubber to runners and box, you might have difficulty aligning the runners to the cylinder head. At least I did! I’ve changed my rubber and plan, and decided to make all the clamp screws accessible with the CIS in the car (except number 6). Hope this helps me get the manifold on it’s mounting studs.

Got the above idea from another thread.
You can position all the clamp screws were you can tighten them with the CIS in the car except number 6 (assuming 4 and 5 are in loosely). I’ll be attempting install tomorrow and will update. Number 6 has a clamp at the back and I’m hoping it will mount easily enough with tight rubber!

Like the idea about zip ties. I’ll give that a shot too maybe.

Well after approximately 3 hours I managed to get all the runners on their studs.

Here are the issues I had and method. Method:
Partial engine drop about two inches.
Number 6 runner was tightened to its sleeve outside car. The other sleeves were loosely attached with the clamp nuts such as I could tighten them (1-5 sleeves) after the runners were in place on their studs.
Got number six on it’s studs after I routed my breather hose and then got number three on it’s studs.
Issues begin :)-.

Attached the bolt/nut in the back of box to throttle linkage bracket.
Maybe keep this loose.

Then attached number 2 runner. Placed some nuts on runners 6 and 3 and two. This was a mistake. Number one would not go in until I raised number two ( placed wood under it). So off went the nuts on 2. Attached throttle spring to underside of number two (this was not an issue).

Number five was a no go for too long. Got out the tourch (hehe). I had to remove all the nuts and loosened the two back bracket nuts. Then I could lift up the whole CIS assembly (mostly the box) high enough so five went in (duh). lesson learned is:

Leave all nuts off the runner studs (except loose on interior 6) until all the runners are appropriately sitting on their studshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536600794.jpg


Pic shows block of wood I used to raise runner two because the mount for the WUR prevented runner one’s install. Worked okay.

Too hot to install nuts and tighten sleeve clamps.
Hope to finish this tomorrow.

You have to assemble the runners loosely so that when you torque down the runner bolts everything connected to them can adjust and find it's place. I found that the clips for the rubber runner connectors to the air box have to be tightened up last otherwise the rubber connectors will get crushed. This is impossible to do with the number 6 rubber connector with the engine in the car because the clips have to be done up with the screw facing the rear (away from you) of the engine bay in order for it to clear the fan shroud. It's a matter of having just that one pair tightened up and the runner in the correct orientation to meet the intake (and maybe number 5 too - don't remember) and hoping for the best. It's tough but doable.

Agree with all your advice.
Still recommend starting the inner nut on runner six stud before you place number five runner on. Barely on though, so you can maneuver the box some as needed

Given the time and pain involved in doing this in the car I would vote for just dropping the engine...can be done in a few hours and you get to check everything else out too.
That being said, glad you guys are able to make it work.

True. I have seen a couple of guys that went to the trouble of building a jig to assemble the CIS on so that everything was adjusted and lined up properly before installing it in the car.

Mike you need to be careful with the orientation of those screws on the clips. If you are contacting the fan shroud the engine vibration will cause the screw to wear a hole in the shroud.

took the whole thing out in 90 minutes ( 78sc no air )

first thing I did was sit it on a piece of cardboard, outline runners.
when I was done I made sure runners dropped onto template in the same spot, dropped it back in and bolted it up.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1536764346.jpg

I tried numerous times to pull a complete CIS while in Car. To me personally it’s not worth the frustration and busted knuckles. Drop motor, cis is off in 4 minutes

After fooling with the CIS on my 1975 911S I have decided to pull the system and go with twin Webers. At least 2 years I have had a surge/bucking in the 2000 - 3000 rpm range and have thrown the towel in. Removing the system looks straight forward, a couple nuts on the rear runners. Really looking forward to setting up my Webers and having a fun 911S to drive.

Tony was little/no help, a couple local guys also recommended Webers. Worst part is I know the original CIS system is the best and a minor item(s) are causing the issue, but I'm done

Out of the frying pan, into the fire... ;)

Webers, carbs in general are a known for me, 50 y/o FI systems are not

also, Webers are cool and I have an extra set on the shelf

They are old-school cool. No argument there.

About 1.5 hours to remove, now the fun begins with twin Webers

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758930626.jpg

This seems like a good idea to go along with the "old school fun".

Good luck there.

Well done with the in-situ excision.

As always !

This.