Would high mileage scare you off?

[uncle_scott]

I am going to be looking at a 1984 Porsche 911 SC this week. It has a 3.2 motor with high miles at just over 234,000. The owner is a PCA member, and they talk about the car being well maintained. There is a significant list of work that has been done to the car in the last 10,000 miles or so. The car is priced in-line with what I would expect in Utah at $10,500. There is not a lot of classic 911 selection out here. This will be my first Porsche 911 ownership experience...Am I crazy to buy a high mileage example? What should I look for? Am I missing any specific information in the ad?

Here is a link to the ad. Any help or inight would be appreciated before I take the plunge .


Car Classifieds for Utah, Idaho, and Wyoming | ksl.com

[naples911]

Things you can check quickly: Jackpoints for rust located upon opening of each door. Lift the rubber seal without disturbing it too much, and see if there are any holes, etc. Also, check the strut mounts under the hood. And, check underneath the entire car for signs of rust.

[herman maire]

I would be interested but not at $10,500. At that price you can just spend a little more and score a nice car with less miles.

It has to make sense to buy a high miles car.... and to me $6000-7000 would make sense.

Also, if theres not enough choice in your area.... look else where and make fun road trip out of it.

[Rot 911]

I didn't see any engine work in the list. At 234,000 that engine is getting tired. Might last longer, but the odds are that it will need some engine work in the not so near future.

[nkotselas]

It all depends what exactly has been done in those last 10,000 miles. Price doesn't seem too bad but I'm in CA and there seems to be a premium here

[Por_sha911]

The true cost of an older Porsche is in the maintenance and repairs. You can get a good car at a decent price but you have to do your homework up front.
With any Porsche, a complete and detailed maintenance list is valuable to document the care and condition of the car. Repairs should be done by a shop that does air-cooled Porsches (or at the very least, European autos) as opposed to Goodyear, Midas, or "Ralph's Repair and Bait Shop". Parts like oil filters should be quality stuff from Porsche or OEM. With that many miles documented maintenance is all the more needed.
Do NOT buy a car of any miles without a thorough PPI (pre-purchase inspection) done by an independent shop (not the guy that is personal friends with the seller) that knows air-cooled Porsches. It will cost you hundreds but could save you from buying problems that will cost thousands. A top end motor job is 10K.
p.s. avoid anything that has "Motormeister" on it.

[Pillow]

I've got 195K and no issues at all. Just changed the plugs and they "read" perfectly.

... Granted in 10 years I have put 5K on it, so maybe I am not the best to chime in.

[mikesride]

My daughters 82 has twice that on it and runs strong everyday! Its not whats on the odometer that really matters....its whats left in the car! A good PORSCHE is like a house, maintain and upgrade as needed and it will stand proud for years!

[naples911]

If this car is 'track ready' as mentioned in the ad, it may need a top end already.

[uncle_scott]

I am going to test drive the car tomorrow. I am not too familiar with the air-cooled cars, so I won't really know if the motor feels tired or worn. I have no baseline to compare it to. I will be respectful of the buyer, ask a lot of questions, and bring some good flashlights to check for rust underneath and in the engine compartment.

I don't want to make the seller mad by low-balling with a $6,000 offer. I appreciate all of your information, and I am excited about even looking at it, haha. I have a local Porsche dealer all set for a PPI for me. It will run a few hundred dollars, but it will include a leak-down test and diagnostics on the motor that I can't perform on my own.

I kind of like the high mileage cars. It shows that these were built to be driver's cars, not garage lumps. I would wear the 200,000+ miles proudly, and would hope that with consistent maintenance to get at least that much more out of it...Maybe I am dreaming, haha.

Thanks, and I will report back this week!

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by uncle_scott

I am going to be looking at a 1984 Porsche 911 SC this week. It has a 3.2 motor with high miles at just over 234,000. The owner is a PCA member, and they talk about the car being well maintained. There is a significant list of work that has been done to the car in the last 10,000 miles or so. The car is priced in-line with what I would expect in Utah at $10,500. There is not a lot of classic 911 selection out here. This will be my first Porsche 911 ownership experience...Am I crazy to buy a high mileage example? What should I look for? Am I missing any specific information in the ad?

Here is a link to the ad. Any help or inight would be appreciated before I take the plunge .


Car Classifieds for Utah, Idaho, and Wyoming | ksl.com

If, It's an '84, I think you are looking at a Carrera 3.2.

[Jesse16]

I say too much, "unless". Its very nice interior and plastic part wise if you're going to be using it (carpet, seats, dash, switches, headliner, sunroof, etc. and like everything to look good AND you plan on doing the top end/engine rebuild yourself AND you can get the price down a bit. You know its got to be a bit tired inside no matter what, its almost 30 yrs old. Nice that the tranny is done, make sure you know thats true.
I paid 15k for my 87, 4 years ago with 165K on it and it was/is beautiful inside, always garaged and well kept. I do the work myself and enjoy it and am happy.
I did the engine rebuild DIY, needs tranny work in the future.

[RWebb]

you will get a chance to become familiar with 911s, and with a local shop

that is worth some exploratory funds...

Examine the actual, original service receipts carefully for mileages, dates, and who did the work. A "significant list of work" is not adequate.

Often, one should look at 10 cars before buying one.

[uncle_scott]

Originally Posted by RWebb

Often, one should look at 10 cars before buying one.

Although this is sound advice, I am a bit of an emotional car buyer, haha. I will try to keep my funds in the bank, until I know for sure that I have found the right car for me.

[Brando]

I wouldn't let the high mileage scare you off... IF:

• The car has an extensive and well-documented maintenance history, including:
- History for Engine work
- History for suspension work
- History for regular maintenance
- History of any collisions & repairs (if any have occurred)
• You can get it for less than $10,500
• The car has not been tracked
• It passes a PPI with flying colors. Get one, NO EXCEPTIONS.
• The car has a CLEAN history.

Mine had 210k on the odometer when I bought it, but I knew the car inside and out from having been the person doing the work on it the previous 5 years. Still got it (in the end, after all the stress) for less than $7,000.

[uncle_scott]

$7000 seems so inexpensive. If she would go that low, then I would buy it in a heartbeat. Perhaps she will, who knows.

What engine work shoudl be done? Full rebuild, Valves done, anything replaced?? I just don't know these cars. If it was a 1984 VW Rabbit, then I would know about everything and anything to look for...the air-cooled have a bit of a voodoo magic in them...at least until I crack into it. I am pretty mechanical and confident that I can perform my own work once I know what the needs are...

[r_towle]

With that many miles, I would suggest you remember a few things.

Winter is coming.
You are the only one standing there in front of the seller.
10k is the ASKING price.

Offer 6k, watch her face....
You can always some up...and she can always come down.

Rich

[wayner]

You are aware that a full engine build could be $20K right?

You could get away for as little as $10k if you don't need too many parts etc.

A used engine could be found for $5kish when the day comes.

In today's market a tub in need of an engine is worth what, $5k unless it is special in some way?

I may be off base but would hate to see you take the car to the crusher because the engine pops and you couldn't afford a new one

[uncle_scott]

I certainly wouldnt part or crush the car. I'd buy a used motor, put it in, and continue driving it. I've watched a lot of threads on here with people going full on with a restoration. That won't be me just yet. I really want a car I can drive and tinker with, of course with the aspirations of building it up in the future. With the valves adjusted in the last 10k miles, what other immediate motor work would you recommend, or is it always dependent on the car itself?

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by uncle_scott

I certainly wouldn't part or crush the car. I'd buy a used motor, put it in, and continue driving it. I've watched a lot of threads on here with people going full on with a restoration. That won't be me just yet. I really want a car I can drive and tinker with, of course with the aspirations of building it up in the future. With the valves adjusted in the last 10k miles, what other immediate motor work would you recommend, or is it always dependent on the car itself?

if it was me I'd drive it a bit and listen, maybe change the oil right off the bat. If you don't get a PPI from a P-car mechanic you are taking a big risk. If the motor hasn't been rebuilt it is probably close to being ready. This can be 10-15k if you do everything yourself. I would look for a lower mile car with a G50 even then there are no guarantees. I paid top dollar, got a PPI and then rebuilt the top end because some valve guides were shot at 47k miles. I did all the "while you are in there" items and the parts add up. Pistons and cyls were good, I put in new rings. I'd consider making a low offer, but may not even be worth it, could be not a great deal even if you get it for free assuming you will keep it.