Heat exchanger question

[pureham]

Hi guy's, I'm looking to backdate the heat on my 78 SC. The problem is the P.O. had removed all the hoses from the heat exchangers and engine compartment. Would it be possible for someone to post a couple pictures and the hose sizes I need to order. I already have the two backdate plates. I also noticed that the driver side engine tin has a steel 90 degree pipe through it to connect the hose to the heat exchanger, but the passenger side does not. Should the passenger side have a 90 as well? Thanks.

[will hung]

Yes, our host sells the pieces you will need. The driver's side has a tube along the fan, but it's a larger diameter than the backdated one, so you will need to buy both. If you look at your heat exchangers, there sill be a little 90 degree tube bend at the rear. That is the diameter of tubing you will need. I ordered SCAT tubing from Aircraft Spruce.

I recommend getting your heat tubing connected ASAP. The heat exchangers hold onto a lot of exhaust heat, and the heater forces that air out of the heat exchangers when the engine is running, so you are at risk of overheating if you continue to run it as is.

[Packet82]

If you're backdating your heating, all you'll need is a bunch of 2.5" SCAT hose from Aircraft Spruce and some hose clamps.

Edit: Yes, only the driver side has the metal adapter through the engine tin. The passenger side is just a hole. I just ran the scat hose directly from the passenger side shroud fitting to the heat exchanger fitting. 2.5" hose should just barely fit through the passenger side hole in the tin.

[john walker's workshop]

in seattle, american flex in ballard has it.

[pureham]

Thanks guy's, Just the answer I was looking for. One more question. Has anyone ever repaired the stock 3.0 heat exchangers? The tin on mine are loose, and they rattle. I searched the forums but couldn't find any info. Thanks

Packet, Is the hose from heat exchanger to the flapper boxes also 2.5"?

[Packet82]

I used 2.5" hose all around. I think the hose to the flapper box might be slightly smaller, but not enough to make a difference. A standard hose clamp will hold it down.

[pureham]

Cool, Thanks again.

[maui44]

Just make sure you use a high temperature hose (our host sells) from the heat exchangers to the flapper boxes. Two hoses required.

Part number: 930-211-622-01-M127

[Packet82]

Originally Posted by maui44

Just make sure you use a high temperature hose (our host sells) from the heat exchangers to the flapper boxes. Two hoses required.

Part number: 930-211-622-01-M127

SCAT hose is safe to 550F. I bought some of the stock ones but ended up sticking to the SCAT hoses since they're quite a bit more flexible and thus much easier to install.

[pureham]

Originally Posted by Packet82

SCAT hose is safe to 550F. I bought some of the stock ones but ended up sticking to the SCAT hoses since they're quite a bit more flexible and thus much easier to install.

How has the scat held up? And what do you guy's think about the heat exchangers, are they repairable? I would rather not fork another $1000 right now for new ones. I'm trying to keep this project on budget, but we all know how that story end's.

[timmy2]

If the HE's are rattling have them spot/tack welded back on again.

[Packet82]

Originally Posted by pureham

How has the scat held up? And what do you guy's think about the heat exchangers, are they repairable? I would rather not fork another $1000 right now for new ones. I'm trying to keep this project on budget, but we all know how that story end's.

So far so good, but I haven't put a ton of miles on the car since I had the engine rebuilt. There's a thread around here on the subject if you search for it. No one else reported issues that I saw.

Look for rust on your heat exchangers. With the chance of carbon monoxide coming through the cabin due to rusty heat exchangers, I tend to be a bit wary of old ones.