vereeken

High revs (1000)no vacuum attached to dizzy, they fall to (750) when I apply the vacuum.

It's static timimg you want me to check yes?

Yep!!

Getting there.

Yes static timing with the vac off. Leave the revs at 750 no need to put them at a 1000. I just want to know the number.

From what I can tell now there is a mix up of small hoses and a timing that is off or a dizzy that is installed incorrectly. Its positions bothers me staright away from that picture.

You also need to tell me what the vacuum line to the WUR does. Heavy suction all the time or suction increasing with revs.

I forgot to pull the vac off of the dizzy but heres the video of that anyway.
it was around 60f. RPM 900
timing1 - YouTube

i'll redo this with vac off.

You need to keep the revs stable for at least 30 seconds, so no reving of the engine. Also put some tipex or yellow paint on the Z1 mark of the pulley.

Vac off.

Apart from the vac lines being switched around I am afraid you are suffering from a lazzy distributor.

If i saw it correct I noticed the timing at TDC. Normally in the position the dizzy is know you would see 8 to 10 degrees BTDC. SO the mechanical advance of the dizzy is worn out most likely and that is why they put it so far to the right.

vereeken,

I believe you are right that the timing with vac connected to dizzy is right on TDC.

WUR Vacuum: High vac low revs, Low vac high revs, no vac if disconnected from Dizzy.

Vac line routing: from dizzy to three way connector, one goes to front left of throttle body, other goes to round disc with two wires on plug at bottom near rear of left side engine, the other line from this disc goes to the WUR. Sorry I don't know what the disc is called.

This video is with dizzy vac disconnected, rpm was steady 1000, temp = 60f.

Vac off 1000 rpm - YouTube

So if the dizzy is lazy, does that mean new springs and a spring cleanup (pun intended)or something more radical?

Vereeken

sorry the original video shows the Z1 mark clearly about one inch to the left of centre but the youtube video has lost a fair amount of resolution.

you have a PM

cheers

Bill

Take a picture of the round disc. I believe you are describing the thermal valve.

If this is true you have a 80 euro CIS setup with a 77 WUR type 033.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/333640-distributor-service-clean-lube-real-easy-without-removing-pinion-gear.html

Here is the link to your weekend work re the distributor.

It can help but it can be terminal as well.

You need to get it rebuild by a reputable shop in your area if it is FUBAR.

Tell them to respect the original advance curve and to keep it with vac advance.

Unless you want to go racing ofcourse...

Vereeken
Were you able to play the original?
Illntake a picture of that thermal valve?
Be right back!

Hopefully you can identify this valve

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353070725.jpg

Yep. Thermal Valve.

Test it.

1. You should see 12 V at the connector with engine running only.
2. Where does the vacuum line come from and where does the vacuum line go to (tip. the vacuum line can only come from the Throttle Body and go only to the WUR. If it goes anywehere else this is wrong).
3. Testing the valve itself. Can only be done with the engine dead cold.Engine runnning. 12v connector connected to Thermal Valve Pull the vacuum line that goes from the Thermal Valve to the WUR.
Take a chronometer.
Start engine and start chronometer. The thermal valve should open after about 30 seconds. Between start and 30 seconds you should not feel any vacuum suction. AFter 30 seconds it should start to suck.

It it sucks from the start or does not start to suck air after 30/40 seconds the valve is kaput.

Michel

I'll test tomorrow as it's late here now, but do not have or ever used a chronometer will look for one though.
vac lines to thermo valve are:
Vac line 1 directly to WUR.
Vac line 2 to 3 way connecter going to dizzy & throttle body.

Vac line 2 seems to differ with what you are stating as correct.

Were you able to see the video?

cheers
Bill

I was able to see the video.

Your small vac lines are basically wrong. look at my drawing and try to come as close as possible.

It is possible you run into an issue with the vac to the wur as you have a 033 WUR.

However:

The vac to the dizzy should be straight to the TB (back side) and should not be T-ed. Make sure the vac increases/decreases with RPM.
The vac to the thermal valve should come from behind the TB and should be T-ed into the decel valve.
The vac line leaving the TTV should go to the WUR and nowhere else and should not be T-ed in anywhere. Make sure the Vac line has steady vac regardless of RPM.

If this is done plus the distributor set correctly we might get somewhere,

Michel

A chronometer is a stopwatch:D

Use your watch if it has seconds. It needs to be around 30 seconds before it opens. 45 is also good (just).

The reason for being so specific is that when it does not open in due time it allows the engine to overfuel and gradually flood while warming up.