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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Winter Haven, FL usa
Posts: 923
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I am looking into a trailer for my 85 911.
Basically I am starting to travel to some tracks that are 500+miles away- and I always worry that something little could happen to the car- and how do I get it home. Any hints out there on what options, etc to look for. What size works?- I will be hauling a 911, and possibly a 944T at times-(separately). I need the trailer to be light, my trucks have a tow limit of about 5000lbs- so trailer needs to be under 2000lbs. I was thinking of one of the open aluminum ones. Brakes on both axles?? Hints to get the car-which is low- up the ramps?? Any specific models that work well? Thanks for the help. gary |
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Greg,
No specific model recommendations, but I suggest the style with a tool/utility box and tire rack up front. ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler |
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not trying to get warren mad at me but if you only go to a few tracks, if you load your car with the tires monted that you are gonna race with, then dont get a trailer with the tire rack and that will free up some weight. im in the asphalt buisness and pull trailers all the time. i always try and keep the trailer as light as possibly. as for a brand of trailer i cant help there, but you really only need a two axel trailer with brakes on only one axel.
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Fred, the only reason I suggested the tire rack ... is that one day, it might be handy to carry a spare wheel and tire or two.
------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: NY,NY
Posts: 642
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The aluminum ones that people seem to use alot are called "Trailex". I understand they're quite expensive. I like the enclosed type myself. Brands are Haulmark and Millenium. 24' enclosed seems popular. Look for a used one to save lots of green. Used trailers are plentiful and often are in good shape and lightly used.
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your right warren, ideally a tire rack would be great to have, i was just thinking of the extra weight. he didnt say what size truck he was gonna pull it with.trailer tounge weight is a very important and often overlooked variable when towing, not to mention using the correct ball and hitch.
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Greg,
Another possibility for increasing the towing capacity of your truck would be to change rear axle gearing. Por example ... on my Dakota the max trailer weight with 3.55 gears is 5100 lbs. Going to the 3.90 gears increases the trailer weight limit to 6400 lbs! You can get an entire rear axle assembly from salvage yards for typically $400-$600. Cheaper than buying another truck, by far, and it gives you less restrictions on your trailer choices! ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler [This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 08-10-2001).] |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Fort Walton Beach, FL
Posts: 24
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Just went throught the same thing about 6 months ago. Trailex is nice, but at 4000$, not cheap. I ended up getting the local good ol boy trailer shop to make me a 6'x14' steel, dual axle with no sides and wooden floor. Specified 6' ramps (still too short with lowered carrera...go with 8 footers) and electric brakes on one axle. Doors even open nicely over the trailer fenders.
End result, $1200 and 1100 pounds, compared to 4000$ and 900 pounds for the trailex. Pulls great, too. pendleton 86 carrera |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Winter Haven, FL usa
Posts: 923
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Thanks for some pointers
I should have pointed out I will probably be towing this with a Ford Explorer-6cyclinder with the tow package. I don't have a hitch yet, so any thoughts on this would be helpful as well Again, thanks for the help |
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I just towed a 356 chassis with trans but no motor from Missouri to Utah using a 1999 ford explorer High output 6cyl.
I towed it on a 8x14ft flatbed trailer with a 6ft ramp. The trailer I was told was about 1200lbs. So the total load was probably around 2200lbs. The explorer did ok but was the transmission was harly ever able to get into the highest gear for the trip due to the added weight. It also cut my fuel economy literally in half(it took double the gas it would have taken if I just drove there). If you are planning to buy a vehicle specifically to tow with I would go with a larger truck like a Ford Dodge or Chevy diesel probably a 2500,3500 or F-350 If you are planning to go with a SUV type to pull it I would definately go with a V-8. Its possible with a six cyl but probably isnt very wise if you want the engine to last. I was told that the tow capacity for the 6cyl explorer was around 2500 lbs but I would have to say that that is pushin the limits of what it can pull safely. Kelly |
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Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 13,334
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I don't know much about trailers, but I narrowly missed buying one (on ebay, of all places) that was made specifically for a 911 (able to open both doors while loaded, for example) -- for $1000.
My wife said she didn't want it in the back yard. (For the record, I shouldn't have listened.) Here's the one that got away: ![]() ------------------ Jack Olsen My Rennlist page • My Pelican Gallery page • My Porsche Owners Gallery page |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,950
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If your towing with a smaller car, stay away from covered trailers. The weight plus the increased wind resistance will take its toll on a lower displacement vehicle. The previous post was correct in that by obtaining a steel/wood trailer, the added weight may not be that great. One added bonus is that you can use those for hauling all kinds of equipment and supplies (mulch). Better than having a trailer in your backyard that's used 4 times a year.
------------------ 8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line. |
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I've been looking into trailer options too. I have a toyota 4wd pickup that I thought I could use to tow, but I am finding that it won't cut it. Not enough power or brake.
So now I am thinking about getting a used diesel pickup. Diesel for economy. For the trailer, the big problem is storage. I've looked at used open trailers in the $1000 range, but keeping it in the back yard could be dangerous for my health. I'm considering the U-haul option. Runs about $50 per day, $100 per weekend. So depending on how frequently you use it, it might take 1-2 years to equal the cost of an open trailer purchase. Plus you don't have to store it, maintain ut, shop for it, register it or anything else. The only hassle is you have to pick it up and drop it off. Not a bad tradeoff. I have a uhaul place 1/2 mile down the road. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 6,950
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Clark, I have used U-Haul for the last 2 DE's. Very simple, $50 a day. The only downside is the trailers are heavy. If you already have a tow vehicle, it may be the easiest.
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 376
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One further note on the tire rack issue. If you forego the tire rack and encounter a wet track 500 miles from home, you don't want to be using your R-rated track tires on the track, unless you enjoy skating. Having the tire rack allows you to carry a set of rain/street tires AND a set of R-rated, pure track tires, one set mounted on the car, obviously. I certainly would want this flexibility.
- Of course, now you are into a bit more weight with a floor jack and a cordless impact wrench for swaping the tires. ![]() - Chuck 83SC |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Winter Haven, FL usa
Posts: 923
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How did you secure your car to the uhaul type trailer? I just looked at one. It looks like the front wheels are to be against two front stops- but there is no way my front spoiler will make it over the stops. At least my local uhaul place doesn't have wheel straps- I could certainly pick up a set. Would they secure the car well enough?
Did you trailer the car forward or backward? It looks like the car doors will not open over the fenders of the uhaul trailer- any tricks?? I assume car is left in neutral, parking brake on, as it is towed? Thanks again |
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I've used U-haul trailers on a couple of different trips and they worked pretty well.
But I have a friend(who will remain nameless ) who used one once and the straps that go around the wheels loosened up and his car rolled off the trailer. He had just gotten off the freeway on a 60 mile trip home from the track and stopped at a red light, when the light turned green he pulled away and his car rolled off the trailer and rolled through the intersection.He saw his car in his rearview mirror and thought that the trailer had become disconnected from his truck. In the panic of "**** my car is in the middle of the intersection" he backed up and ran into the front of his car with the still attached trailer. Luckily all he had to replace was the front bumper and repair the dent in the hood. So becareful with the U-haul trailers. Make sure you check the straps. I've seen several that were way to frayed for my comfort and have asked for a different trailer and make sure you use the front and rear chains. You may even want to had you own tie downs for added security. Sorry for the long post. Michael Marshall |
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 253
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Great timing on this thread-I'm currently planning a 600+ mile (each way) trip to pick up an early Bronco I won on Ebay-will be towing it w/my '97 Jeep Cherokee (4.0L, auto, towing package w/Class III hitch). The combined weight of the Bronco and trailer (rented tandem axle-$20 a day) will be around 4500-5000 lbs-right at the max reccomended by Jeep......wish me luck!
Lowe's and Home Depot have excellent Keeper ratcheting tie-down straps for about $11.00-do yourself a favor and go buy a few-(then spend 15 or 20 minutes figuring them out.) When towing a heavy load w/a midsize sports utility, the keyword is SMOOTH...don't do anything suddenly. Plan ahead for red lights, stop signs, lane changes, exit ramps-downshift for hills (up AND down), accelerate early before long grades to keep your momentum up, and signal way ahead for turns. Check the hitch ball nut torque, safety chains, wheel nut torque, lights, and tie-downs at every stop-place your hand on the steel trailer wheels and make sure one isin't running much hotter than the others-a sure sign of a failing wheel bearing or dragging brake (if so equipped). Good luck! ------------------ Clay McGuill '66 912, '97 Jeep Cherokee www.geocities.com/the912guy |
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Clay,
Who is renting car trailers for $20 per day? That is deal, if I can find that I won't buy a trailer. |
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One comment made here is something I've heard before. "Specially made for a 911" , this is as I recall a good thing to keep in mind. 911's have all their weight in the rear and reduce tongue weight considerably. Obviously you can position the car on some trialers but on others not. Look at photo in this thread and see the trailer "made for 911" and you'll see the trailer axle is oddly rearward to compensate for weight of a 911.
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