Crack in rear SB mount

[K Sykes]

I have a very small crack in the rear swaybar mount (1980 Targa). It's been creaking away for a year or so, but just found it today.

Question I have is, can I weld it temporarily? I realize the real fix is to put in the Wevo mounts, but I'd like to do that when I go for a bare metal paint job in 6 months to a year. Or I can just deal with the creaking and wait until I get the paint work done or it tears out.

Thoughts?

[Reiver]

No specific experience with this but I've welded frame cracks, motor mounts etc for years with no problems. Don't just 'let it go'...weld it until you do a perm repair altho the weld, if done correctly, will be a perm repair.

[TRE Cup]

Disconnect the bar temporarily so you can remove the rubber bushing on the cracked mount (you don't want to melt it from weld heat)

Weld up the crack. Next fashion a small strap from 1/8" x 1" wide that will be welded between the flange edge with the threaded nuts on it and the main body center of the sway bar bracket. Paint it, and reassemble.
Suggest you do the same to the other side and you are set to go

[JTL]

Do you autocross or DE at all? The factory rear mounts are pretty flimsy to begin with. Why not replace them with better ones, like the Wevo mounts, since you are going to end up welding anyway. I believe the Wevo RARB Consoles are available here at Pelican.

I had the Wevo mounts installed very shortly after going to the 22mm sway bars.

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by TRE Cup

Disconnect the bar temporarily so you can remove the rubber bushing on the cracked mount (you don't want to melt it from weld heat)

Weld up the crack. Next fashion a small strap from 1/8" x 1" wide that will be welded between the flange edge with the threaded nuts on it and the main body center of the sway bar bracket. Paint it, and reassemble.
Suggest you do the same to the other side and you are set to go

That's the way to go for a street driven car and stock sway bar. If the car isn't driven aggresively you can simply remove the rear sway until you have time to get it done. If track driven I would put Wevo mounts in, positioned to accept a larger bar (to clear transmission mount) should you ever go that route.. but the stock bar may not fit well once you do that, check with someone that has done it.

[K Sykes]

Thanks for all the responses. I do plan to ultimately go to the Wevo's but just looking for a temp solution until I get to the body shop for a bare metal repaint, when I'll do the permanent solution.

[Don Ivey]

May just be a coincidence, but when I had mine welded, andthe shop didn't remove the ECU, started having problems with it shortly thereafter, and soon had to replace completely. Only takes a few minutes, and may save you aggravation later.

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by Don Ivey

May just be a coincidence, but when I had mine welded, andthe shop didn't remove the ECU, started having problems with it shortly thereafter, and soon had to replace completely. Only takes a few minutes, and may save you aggravation later.

Most likely not a coincidence, anytime any type of arc welding is done on a car the battery cables should be disconnected..

[Quicksilver]

I had the rear swaybar mount tear out in mine 10-12 years ago. I drove it a month or so with no real issues. I did an Auto-X with the bar off and it would pickup the inside front 4-6 inches. Very entertaining to watch.

[wildcat077]

I welded mine twice before i finally broke down and installed the Wevo brackets ... have two friends with 80's Carreras who had to replace theirs as well !

Cheers !
Phil

[K Sykes]

Well after all that, the groaning was coming from the t-bar bushing. There's still a crack, but not the source of the horrid groaning. I pulled the swaybar (thanks TRE) to get ready to weld and did a test bounce and same groan. Oh well, on to the bushings.