S engine specs

nostatic · nostatic's Garage

I'm not (yet) up on such things (Wayne, where's your new book?!), so I'm open for comments. Evidently the engine in the '70 I'm looking at is a 2.4S engine with Mahle 2.2S pistons and cylinders, 2L S heads radius cut to 2.2. Carrera tensioner upgrade. Clutch uses an SC flywheel. Brakes are T calipers with Jurid pads front, Mintex rear. 15x7 Fuchs all around. 20K on tranny rebuild, 5K on current engine spec. Does this sound in the ballpark?

Also the argument was made that chassis don't get tired as long as there isn't any rust...and thus track time on a well taken care of car shouldn't be a concern. I know about frame flex when it comes to bicycles (and how modulus of elasticity comes into play), but I thought a p-car tub was a bit more complex system. Opinions?

Still playing phone tag on the yellow '72.

pwd72s · 05:04 PM

The only good "upgrade" I read in your post is the tensioners upgrade. And if "no rust" meant no flex? Well...let's just say they didn't have track tires that stick as well as street tires do today, back when the car was built. ***** happens, so buyer beware.

Early_S_Man · 06-15-2002, 05:12 PM

The 2.2S pistons and smaller combustion chamber of the 2.0 heads mean that the compression ratio is something ABOVE 10:1!!! Assuming that the octane requirement can be met ... it would mean perhaps 10-12-15 hp more than a normal 2.4S ... in the 200-205 hp DIN vicinity! Does this engine have dual plugs?

You may want to ask the seller if the engine will run satisfactorily on 91-92 octane (Pemex) pump gas they are selling in CA lately???

TimT · 06-15-2002, 05:17 PM

If you use 2.2 pistons in a 2.4, you raise the compression ratio which is a good thing. The 2.4's had low c/r to comply with emission regulations or something

All chassis flex, some flex so little you can hardly measure the displacement. Rust somehow finds its way to the highly stressed areas on the chassis...... check the front suspension mounts ( both the a-arms, and the crossmember) and check the rear torsion bar area.... also check the door jambs.... lots of road debris and other crap gets stuffed up there.... it even rusts on galvanised chassis

pwd72s · 06-15-2002, 05:31 PM

"If you use 2.2 pistons in a 2.4, you raise the compression ratio which is a good thing." Tim? It's good, power wise. Might not be so good if you want to have a street car that can run on available pump fuel...most of which is slightly distilled mountain lion urine these days.

Saffs · 06-15-2002, 07:10 PM

That sounds a neat engine set up to me. Any pics of the car, NS?
Are you going to go for it?

nostatic · nostatic's Garage

no pics yet...hopefully early next week. It is ivory exterior with houndstooth interior. Has some dings in the right front fender and a small bit of rust on the front bumper. I've been assured (yeah, right) that there isn't any more rust, but I assume a PPI should give a good indication. From the looks of things all the mechanicals have been gone through on the car.

Saw the yellow one today and was unimpressed. The MFI isn't tuned right, and it is running really rich. There is sag in the driver's side door (a gap between the top of the door and the jam) and the gaps aren't uniform. Some other odds and ends like cracked dash, ignition weirdness, seat mechanisms that don't really work, etc. I don't think it's worth $11K, but maybe I'm not calibrated. It is fairly original, but needs a good amount of work. The sagging door and uneven gaps worry me the most (along with potential MFI service).

The white one on the other hand as I recall has good gaps and is cleaner in and out (except for the needed bodywork).

I also saw a '68T that is only being held together by the rust. The current owner didn't really know (but does now

) Asking $7K...I said he might want to think about selling it for parts, or that he might get lucky and find someone that doesn't really look very hard and unload it at $4-$5K.