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I have removed the heater blower and all the tubing from my car (77 2.7). This included all the tubes between the heat exchangers and the engine. I only use the car in the summer anyways, I know notice that the engine is running hotter (I also have pinched cooler lines)
But I am wondering what to do with these openings in the exchangers and engine. Should I block them all off, or reroute them elsewhere? Has anyone done this? It would seem to me that the engine would run COOLER without the heat from the exchangers forced into it, but it seems I am wrong, ideas? Thanks Shawn |
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shawn, i did the same thing to my 1970 911t 2.2. i was advised to block off the round hose holes with cans(beer, or soda) i guess this makes all the air coming from the fan to flow only over the engine and not escape through the hose openings, thus cooling your engine. im not a expert by any means but the pinched cooler lines should be fixed asap. im sure someone else will expand more on this.
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Thanks Fred
I will block those off. What did you do about the "holes" in the exchangers? I assume block them off to so water doesn't get in there. What about the hole from the fan just leave it open for the air to get out? Also I am going to fix those pinched lines this weekend, so that should be OK. Thanks Shawn |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: North Port, FL
Posts: 342
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also plug the holes in the tin that srounds the engine. You could have air getting recirculated (not good).
------------------ Ted Stringer nuke3@juno.com '84 911 Targa aka pocketrocket |
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If you don't plug up the openings on the heat exchanger that are in the engine bay, the vacuum inside the engine bay caused by the cooling fan will suck extremely hot air out of the heat exchanger and into the engine. Not good.
All the openings in the shroud should get covered also so that you don't waste cooling air. Why are you doing this anyway? ------------------ Bill Krause '79 911SC Euro MY PELICAN GALLERY |
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Crotchety Old Bastard
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Shawn - you need to install the a pre-74 ducting in your car. That is what I did with my SC. This system works perfectly on my car (SSIs), saves weight, and looks better. If you have stock exchangers it will still work, just a bit more fabrication.
On my last 911 I installed headers. No heat of any kind. Blocked off the fan shroud exits with foam rubber and a fabricated metal end caps held in place with a band clamp. You will see increased cooling when the fan is using 100% of its volume on the engine. |
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Well to answer Bill Krause first. The reason I am doing this is because I never use the heater- It sucked anyways! And to clean up the engine bay a bit.
Thanks everyone, Rarly I was going to use the pre 74, and I actually have all the parts but, like I said I never use the heater. I will block everything off, my car has been running hot 240ish lately and I was worried. Iam also fixing a kinked oil line and I am going to test my thermometer. Thanks everyone Shawn |
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Shawn,
Even the pre-74 sheet metal tin has two 2.5" openings that need to be covered. Aluminum foil tape from a Heating/Air Conditioning supply store sticks very well to clean sheet metal and the adhesive is temperature resistant, since it is intended for use oon hot air ducts. It is rather fragile, but two or three layers is quite a bit tougher ... I used this stuff on a VW Beetle engine tin for years after blocking off the outlets on the fan shroud. It is very important to the cooling efficiency of the 911 ... to have the engine compartment air-tight, so that all air enters from the deck lid opening! Any redidual leaks from below will allow entry of HOT air from below, and will result in VERY ABNORMALLY HIGH OIL TEMPS!!! ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler [This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 08-14-2001).] |
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