Supporting Engine while I work
 

I think I know what the answer is going to be... but just in case someone has done the same.

This is for the RS project that I have.

Engine is out:

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/engine_out9.jpg

I need to replace broken exhaust bolts to get ready to install a set of headers and new exhaust (ordering soon from Brian). So I need to be able to work under the engine. I would hate to break the engine and transmission apart to mount the engine on an engine-stand... what are my alternatives? Or I don't have any??

Reason for not wanting to break apart the transmission from the engine is that I have never done that and not sure how difficult it will be to put back together...

I now need to search on how to best remove broken studs... not sure if I have to heat the broken stud or the head... I am hoping to be able to remove them easily as they did not break flush with the head... search on.

Thanks! SmileWavy

It's not difficult to separate and piece back together. You remove the starter, then remove the bolts joining the two, and then pull back, the clutch fork will pull itself out. To join back together, the hardest part is getting the shift fork into the groove on the throw out bearing. I was nervous about this, but it was surprisingly easy.

I would recommend separating the two before installing the drivetrain just so that you can inspect the clutch, flywheel, and throw out bearing. To replace these you would need to drop the drivetrain again. And nothing is worse than knowing you have to drop the drivetrain right after having it out. The previous owner of my car told me the clutch was new before I bought it. He had just rebuilt the engine and told me it looked good. I had to pull it this past winter because I could hear the throw out bearing groaning. When I inspected the clutch, it was close to the rivets.

Thank you! I will take advantage of you with a couple more questions...

What about that bigas** coiled spring on the side?? Do I have to touch that? :confused:

Also, will I need that engine stand adapter ring?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...nd-mainely.jpg

Or can I use my chepo HF engine stand by itself??

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc04187_small.jpg

Yes... I have worked other cars...even took apart a 951 engine, down to the last bolt and put it back together... but never have I worked on a 911 engine... intimidates the heck out of me... :(

I'm not sure what coil spring your talking about.

My car came with the engine stand adapter ring, so I can't comment on whether you can use the others. You could always separate the two, and then hold your current stand adapter to the engine to see if they align.

Take it apart, the spring for the clutch comes off easy. I took my tranny off while on the jack like your's sits, just use some 2x4 blocking for support.
Get the adaptor ring or the p201 tool and put the engine on a stand, it will make your job a lot easier.

Thank you. Ordered the P201 tool... should be here in a couple of days. It should slide right into my current engine stand.

I have a tranny jack... will lower the table lift so that the tranny rests on the jack and take them apart.

SmileWavy

I was talking about this one:

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/Spring-2.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...0RS/Spring.jpg

All set now. Got an inexpensive 1,000lbs engine stand from HF since I still need to keep that FIAT engine block on my old stand for now... once the P201 gets in I will do the split.

Its all part of the clutch...you will have to pull that off along with the piece next to it in order to allow the engne and tranny to separate...it isnt a big deal..not that much tension on it...

Oh, ok. Yeah, I removed that before even dropping my engine. Just release the omega spring with a screw driver (make sure your fingers are very clear of it), remove the circlip, and the whole assembly will drop off. That is the spring you should be concerned with because it's storing a ton of energy.

The coil spring is mild, just work one of its hooks off with a small screw driver.

I'd replace both of those clutch helper springs while you have everything out of the car and apart.

OK. Added to the Project List. I will order those when it is time to mount everything back. Thank you.

As I looked through the list of parts in the clutch section from our host, I noticed that for this year ('81) there are no needle bearings. So the shaft just runs on a set of bushings?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...per_spring.jpg

Even the pilot bearing is different from what I am used to seeing... might as well order on of those as well and replace it.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...010204200-M157

I will also inspect the rear main seal and overall clutch condition... what else??

Don't bother inspecting the RMS, just replace it. With the engine out, you should replace the most likely oil leakers that are really tough to get to with the engine in the car. The breather gasket, sender gasket, and three oil cooler seals.

To bring closure to this thread...

Best way to proceed was to break apart the transmission from the engine. Mount the engine on a stand and be able to work with some broken exhaust bolts, get the oil lines back dated, and have it ready for when I get the exhaust system that I want.

I also wanted to inspect the clutch's conditon.

Good news is that it was easy to take it apart. And from inspecting the clutch, fork, etc, everything seems to be new.

Thank you for those that responded to this thread on questions about how to take it apart.

First I needed to remove the two tensioning springs...

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/Tranny-1.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/Spring-2.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/Tranny-9.jpg

Removed the starter, the nuts holding the case to the engine... put the transmission jack... and slide out the transmission. I am so happy that it did not give me a fight.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/Tranny-3.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/Tranny-4.jpg

Clutch fork, gaskets, o-rings, all looks to be new...

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/Tranny-5.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/Tranny-6.jpg

Surface rust on the pressure plate...

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/Tranny-7.jpg

And clutch disk also looks to be new...

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/Tranny-8.jpg

All I need to do now is move the engine to the stand and turn it over to access the exhaust bolts


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...rPorsche-1.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...rPorsche-2.jpg

Why would you need the adapter ring if you are not going to separate the case halves?
Just bolting it up to my engine stand adjustable adapters worked ok for me.

Oh you just did not do that!! :mad: Are you saying I spent 225.00 on that adapter without any need ?? You want to ruin my day? Edit your post, hurry!! And make it read that I needed that adapter, that it was a great purchase, great price, and you could have not done the work with out it, do it, do it, dooooo itttttttt!! http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ns/roflmao.gif

:rolleyes: oh well. It looks professional :p

Oh darn..........My very first post to the forum, and I have upset a 988 post veteran:D

All in good fun. Welcome to Pelican!!! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Too Funny... :)

Wachuko will have the satisfaction of knowing he has the correct tool for the job right now and for the future. I bought the cheaper e-bay one, and although it worked, in retrospect I wished I'd sprung the $ for the 201.

"All in good fun. Welcome to Pelican!!!"

Thank you wachuko. Looking forward to more fun:D