SC oil breather leak -- drop engine or remove CIS

[NOLAsc]

Quick question: Is it easier to drop the engine to get to the oil breather cover and hose or pull off the CIS stuff that blocks access to it? I have a leak up there; I can reach around and feel some oil around that spot. And I have enough of a drip to be concerned.

I understand that to change the oil breather gasket, you've got to loosen and lift some intake components anyway even with the engine out. (That's why I chose not to replace it last time I had the engine out. I figured, disconnecting more stuff could only lead to more problems -- particularly if this gasket was not leaking).

Quick follow-up question: If removing CIS is easier, anybody know what I'm in for with regard to other parts -- like gaskets -- to put it back together?

BTW, I have changed the thermostat O-ring and the oil pressure switch.

Thanks,
Shawn

[vash]

drop the motor and change the three points up there that gives up troubles.

[Scott R]

Drop it. You'll be happy that you did in the end. You can do a rear main, maybe some oil cooler seals as well if you need them.

[80-911SC]

drop it ...... getting ready to do the same here ......

just be ready for the "while your in there" but there are some things you should do while your down there or at least be prepared to address ,

IE: cooler seals, main seal, clutch, heater hoses, paint your sheet metal trim, replace the sound pad ......... i am planning to stop myself at the mention of a repaint but will investigate at the time.

Good luck ......

Steve

[kodioneill]

An alternative: Partial drop remove CIS. Not a difficult job at all.

[NOLAsc]

Not worried about the engine drop, but curious about pulling the CIS.

If pulling the CIS, I'm guessing, at a minimum, I'd replace the six gaskets and six rubber sleeves on either ends of the intake pipes. Anything else? Kodioneill, how much do you have to take apart the CIS to remove it? Like, do you pull the injectors? (If so, it might be a nice time to test their flow.)

Whichever route I go, I'd like to have my Pelican package of parts ready.

I should have a nice block of time to work on it the first week of January.

[kodioneill]

It's not hard at all with the engine down or out. Take some photos along the way for the wire connections. Be gentle with the banjo bolts. Label the fuel lines and have fun.

[jmitro]

I know the tech article here on pelican says you can correct those 3 problem seals by tilting the CIS components backward, but IMHO I can't see any way possible to easily access those areas without removing the CIS completely.

My suggestion is to pull all the CIS without dropping the motor, if you can access all the nuts and components to pull CIS.

my motor is out of the car, and I removed the entire CIS system complete with intake runners. it was a piece of cake after that.

[VaSteve]

Drop the motor. The CIS is heavy and awkward. I tried it and ended up having to drop the motor to get the CIS back on.

[NOLAsc]

Leaning toward engine drop. My fear about removing CIS is that I'll upset some working component or connection that's been tight for countless years. Or I'll strip something.

I was nervous about my first 911 engine drop (been too many years -- over two decades? -- since I dropped my 914 engines which are simpler). Much less trepidation now after dropping this engine in recent memory. I think I can cut the drop/reinstall time at least in half.

I think it was the tech article that said you need to remove the heat exchanger to get to the oil cooler seals. Anybody know if that's the case with the engine out? Removing heat exchangers, I'm sure, will mean replacing exhaust studs.

[boyt911sc]

Shawn,

Which ever method you decide to do, you'll be able to get access to the top/rear side of the motor. I've done both these methods (partial or full drop) and will always go for the full drop. Why? For all the effort and time you'll be spending with the engine installed, you'll spend less time and aggravation if you had dropped the engine!!!!!

I did numerous engine drop for my local friends as a hobby. But would not do the removal of the CIS unit with engine installed in the car. Just to remove and install the CIS unit including fixing the leak source/s would take more time and effort!!!! Now if you are the type of guy who likes and enjoys doing simple things the hard way, don't listen to the common wisdom of people!!!!! There is no right or wrong decision, just good or bad.

Now with regards to your CIS, don't worry about it. There is nothing difficult and hard about maintaining it in good running condition. I'm no expert, but I've not encountered CIS problem/s that could not fixed or diagnosed by a DIY'er like youself. There are plenty of help available from this forum.

Merry X'mas to all!!!!! (Season's greeting to all!!!!).

Tony

[T77911S]

drop it. i did when i had to replace my Tstat.

it would also be a good time to reseal the CIS.

you could also do a valve adjustment.

[mtndawg]

I just did this on my '82 for the first time. I thought I would be able to get the breather off without removing the CIS...no way. I did a partial engine drop, which allows 12+ inches to lower the engine while it's connected to the transmission. This made it very easy to remove the CIS assembly. It's heavy and awkward, but you can work it out with patience. You may also consider a new sound mat, intake boots, seals on the oil cooler, seal on the thermostat, and I put in a new pressure gauge...oh and I had somebody hot tank the oil cooler when I did it. When you do the partial drop you have all kinds of room in the engine bay. The entire process was fairly easy. Oh yeah, then reassemble!

[pete3799]

I changed my breather cover gasket (and more) when i had the engine out last winter.
I don't recall having to loosen anything on the CIS to get the cover off. Might have had to
pry up on something a little to get it off.

[vash]

drop the motor. you only need to remove a few hoses and wiggle in there with your finger. two people helps. you can move (flex) the CIS just a tad, and get all the hardware in and out.

i have done it three times. no issues.

[NOLAsc]

Thanks for all the responses. Looks like the motor's coming out again. Kind of looking forward to it.

Couple of while-in-there things to add to the benefit list of having the motor out:
1. I want to pull the starter -- easier with motor out. Seems like I read a thread about cleaning a starter that was gummed up.
2. It looks like I should replace the rubber at the tops of the rear shocks:



A few more questions about leaking. What's this thing the yellow arrow's pointing to on the breather cover?



Do you replace it like the oil pressure(?) switch? Do you seal it in some kind of way?

[rayporsche]

All of that and then some.........some of us will go with option D !!!!

[NOLAsc]

Wow. I didn't anticipate Option D.

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by kodioneill

An alternative: Partial drop remove CIS. Not a difficult job at all.

My recommendation as well - that's exactly what I did a few years back to replace the oil pressure switch and thermostat o-ring. That's also a good time to remove the heat shield pad (what's left of it) and replace it if you'd like.

[MBAtarga]

Here's a pic of the in progress effort: