It is finally time!!

[FL911SC]

It is finally time to drop the motor in my '79 SC. I have owned the car less than a year, have driven it and have loved it. But it is time to drop the motor and address the oil leaks... correction, the "controlled seepage" which is throughout.

What I am hoping to find is someone in the Tampa Bay (FL) area who would be willing to give up a Saturday or Sunday to lend a helping hand (or two). As this is my first time, I would appreciate all the experience and advice that would come with the assistance. If the joy of dropping a motor isn’t enough, the garage has A/C; beverages are provided; lunch will be provided. I have a decent collection of tools, but if there is that one ‘special left handed metric crescent wrench’ that make the whole thing easier, then please bring it with you or let me know and I will pick it up.

I would like to get the motor out sooner rather than later, but can be flexible as I realize I am asking for your time.

Thanks!!

[SpeedracerIndy]

A garage with A/C, and free beer! I'd be there in a second if I was close!!!

Good luck. the first time I dropped my motor it took me about 4 hours as I was meticulous about everything. The second time I did it, I had it out in about 30 minutes. It's amazing how easy it is.

Just make sure you use jack stands and don't get under the car without them. Taking the rear bumper off is only a handfull of bolts and reduces the amount of lift you need to get the engine out of the car.

The only special tools I can think of that I use are long allen sockets for the CV joints and the 36(???)mm wrenches to get the oil lines off.

Good luck! And remember to post the mandatory picture of you in the engine bay after you get it out.

[OsoMoore]

I'm looking forward to these pictures as I also have a 79 SC. Which I hope to never engine drop.

[allaircooled]

I would love to give a hand but I am flying back to Tampa tonight after being away for 8 weeks and the wife would kill me. Only home for two weeks or so before I have to fly off to another job site.

[doublestuff]

Damn, wish we could have gotten together before I moved! Good luck with the drop, I would love to see "my" car with the engine out

Jason

[audi]

A helping hand, while definitely nice for the first drop, isn't necessary if you can't rustle anybody up.

If you go it alone, lift the car off the motor rather than raising the whole werks and dropping the motor (I used a jack on each side and a third jack underneath the nose of the transmission, keeping the shaft centered in the tunnel hole, until the rear was high enough to pull the motor/transmission free). As you separate the car from the motor, do it in small increments and watch for anything that got hung up or you forgot to disconnect.

Before you know it, you too can be standing in your engine bay, looking out at your motor, saying "what have I done?"

Good luck, if I was still in FTL I'd gladly drive over to help.
Audi

[FL911SC]

Thanks for the tips guys!

“Speedracer” – Thanks for the heads up on needing the larger wrench sizes for the oil lines. I will find a couple of sizes around the 36mm to cover my bases. Also, thanks for the tip on removing the bumper. It is encouraging to know that it probably won’t take the 10 hours outline in the “101 Projects” book. I have been studying that to get a good idea of what I am in for.

“Audi” – interesting idea on the solo approach. I am short a jack (only have 2 that have that kind of height) but the approach makes since and will offer a lot more control of the situation if I am running solo.

Jason – You are not that far away and as I stated when I bought the car from you, you are welcome any time!

I am still hopeful to get some assistance with this. Any takers??

[schumicat]

6 ton jack stands are helpful. many other stands won't go high enough. any auto parts store will sell them. for me the hardest part the first time was the cv joint bolts. if they have not been budged in years they can be hard to break loose (plus the limited space and light working under the car). don't let the bearings fall out (use plastic bags and zip ties to keep them in place). definitely check the clutch while engine is out.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by schumicat

6 ton jack stands are helpful. many other stands won't go high enough. any auto parts store will sell them.

AMEN on the 6 ton jack stands. Don't try it with the wimpy 3 ton stands, you'll regret it!

[FL911SC]

Schumicat – You are the second person to mention disconnection the axels as the CV joint. It is my intent to only remove the engine and leave the transaxle in place. I don’t remember reading in the “101 Projects…” book that the CV joints had to be disconnected when dropping the engine only. I did read that the transaxle should be supported once the engine was out, but that’s it.

So the question is, when dropping only the engine, will I need to disconnect the axles? If so, why?

Once again, thanks for the tips guys. These are those unwritten things that make life so much easier when you know what to expect.

[schumicat]

it is much easier and most people will recommend that you drop the trans and engine together. you don't need to disconnect cv if you leave trans in place.

[scotricker]

FL, I just got done (first time) taking mine out and back in, and it runs! I can phone visit with you if you'd like. I will PM contact info.

[CCM911]

In my humble opinion, I would not recommend doing this alone for the first time. I hope you can find someone to help. It is definitely doable to go solo, but I just think you will get more out of the experience with some help.

That being said, best of luck. And no matter how much of a pain it will seem like at the time, you will feel so good when it is done.

[FL911SC]

Bump... I am still hoping to find someone who can lend a hand with an engine removal.

Thanks!

[FL911SC]

I just wanted to give some follow up to let you know that I did successfully get the engine out. This may be a bit cheesy, but I do want to publicly thank “scotricker” for answering a lot of questions and sending some pictures to help. Thanks to “JeremyD” for offering to help out. And a huge thanks to “Brandon-FL” for spending his Saturday under the car and for helping me out. We both agree that while it is possible to remove the engine alone, it is much easier with someone to help out.

My next question is on cleaning this thing. There is a lot of oil/dirt build up in the areas where the oil has been seeping for a while and a rag is only going to insult it. In a post a while back I read where I guy used a pressure washer to clean the big stuff off. I have been looking for a steam/hot water pressure washer to rent, but I am not having an luck with that. So I thought would break out a bottle of Simple Green and hit it with some high pressure water. IS THIS A GOOD IDEA? If so, what are the areas I should avoid hitting with the water? If it helps to know, the transmission and engine are still attached for now. I know not to hit the distributor and won’t shoot water directly into the alternator fan. Any other “Whatever you do, don’t…..” comments?

Thanks again for all the comments and tips for getting the engine out.

[Cairo94507]

Simple green, a couple of soft brushes and cold water to rinse it off. Cover the electronics well so they do not get wet. Take your time and you should be good. I do not think you need a high pressure washer or steam to get it done. Good luck.

[SpeedracerIndy]

Nice work!!!


For cleaning: I used Purple Power, which is similar to Simple Green, and several different types and sizes of brushes depending on the level of grime. My engine had a LOT of oil leaks and it is spotless now, so it can be done. It did take a LONG time and a lot of elbow grease. In most areas I used a 50/50 mix with water. In very tough areas I used full strength, but tried to avoid doing that where ever possible (see below). Also, an engine stand where I could rotate the engine made it a lot easier. Try to avoid electrical areas or wrap them up. And keep water away from the intake if you take any of that apart. Otherwise there isn't much that you can damage with a spray bottle and brush. Keep in mind that the engine is exposed to the elements through the grill on the engine lid, so it is used to getting wet.



I'd stay away from a power washer, but that's just my opinion. You could cause a lot of damage with high pressure water blasting at all those 30+ year old rubber seals, wires, etc.


Any of those caustic solutions (simple green, purple power, etc) will attack the aluminum if strong enough and left on long enough, so I suggest rinsing with a lot of water an very often. They will also attack your skin (!!!), so be sure to wear impermeable gloves of some kind otherwise you'll be peeling skin off of your hands for weeks (been there, not fun). Good luck!

[will hung]

I would save the pressure washer for the engine compartment. My engine compartment is sparkling clean now thanks to a pressure washer.

[Brandon-FL]

Great photo! Glad I could help out, had a blast and learned alot. Its been said before, but this community is as much about the people as it is the cars. I messaged Keith about helping out even though I've never pulled an engine before, thinking I could at least be another set of hands. Turns out we live less than 15 minutes from each other, and while we were working on the car realized that we had met before at a recent Cars and Coffee event.

For those contemplating taking the plunge, find a friend, take your time and ask a lot of questions. Before you know it, you'll be looking at an engine on a dolly asking yourself, "OK, now what?"

[JeremyD]

I use simple green a liberally - trick is to not let it sit to long and rinse with water. Glad you got it out without too much drama.

I promise you it gets easier - I did pressure wash mine - but I took off the intake, stuffed rags in the intake then put AC tape over the openings. THEN was really careful where I applied the full force.





Blue tape after I pulled the rags out...