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Nickshu's Avatar
 
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Spacer behind engine compartment light?

My engine compartment light has been missing for over 12 years. I ordered a new one from our host and installed it last night. I tested it before attaching it to the rear decklid and it worked fine. As soon as I attached it to the decklid it blew the fuse.

I assume it is grounding out on the decklid. I installed it with all the factory clips/screws directly from the PET so it should be correct.

Is there supposed to be a rubber or plastic spacer behind the lamp to keep it isolated??

Thanks!

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Old 12-12-2012, 06:02 AM
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no rubber insulator called for. - even if there was, the nuts/lock washers would still be metal-to-metal on the flip side.
now you know why it's been missing for so long.
Bill K
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkreigsr View Post
no rubber insulator called for. - even if there was, the nuts/lock washers would still be metal-to-metal on the flip side.
now you know why it's been missing for so long.
Bill K
True on the screws being conductors regardless of spacer, but on the back side there are some rivets that hold down the contacts and I am thinking those are grounding out on the decklid....I'll try spacing it out and see what happens. Maybe the mount strip on my decklid is bent a little, I'll look at that too.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:09 AM
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With the ignition off, measure from lead of light power to a ground point and see what you get. It should NOT read zero ohms as that would indicate a short somewhere in your harness. If that's OK then the short is in the light itself.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:18 AM
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those aren't rivets, they are spot welds
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:18 AM
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I recall the light in my '87 having a plastic surround on the rear side of the light

whoops. My mistake. I was thinking of the other thread regarding the front trunk/hood light. No spacer on the engine lid light. Screws directly onto the lid

Might want to make sure the lid is grounded. There are ground straps that ground the lid to the chassis?
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Last edited by KTL; 12-12-2012 at 10:01 AM..
Old 12-12-2012, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolds View Post
With the ignition off, measure from lead of light power to a ground point and see what you get. It should NOT read zero ohms as that would indicate a short somewhere in your harness. If that's OK then the short is in the light itself.
Good advice, will do it tonight. Thanks!!
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:49 AM
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here's a pic of everything I removed from my 85 (the small clips on the right are the wire looms that clip to the center support)
can't see the back, so I could be mistaken about the spacer.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:58 AM
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Your problem is most likely that you have the wiring around the wrong way. Switch the wires to the opposite terminals on the light fitting and it will probably solve the fuse blowing.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D911SC View Post
Your problem is most likely that you have the wiring around the wrong way. Switch the wires to the opposite terminals on the light fitting and it will probably solve the fuse blowing.
I have the ground (brown) on the side that has the post centered and the power (grey) on the side that the post is offset. Is that correct? I will post a photo later.

It did work fine until I connected it to the decklid, but I didn't leave it on long, so maybe it was not on long enough to blow the fuse.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:04 PM
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Yes, they are the wrong way around. Ground the post that is offset.

You would be blowing fuses when you mount the assembly as this will short the grey wire.

If there is a short the fuse will blow straight away.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:24 PM
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Like D911Sc said switch the wires.
Old 12-12-2012, 12:27 PM
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You guys were 100% correct. I swapped the wires, put in a new fuse and it works perfectly. Once again this forum has saved me! Thanks again!
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:36 PM
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Glad it's all sorted out. Hopefully you'll never need it - after all it is there to assist you on the side of the road at night time!

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Old 12-12-2012, 08:58 PM
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