Everything was fine today until...throttle "bolt" linkage question located by trans??

[H.G.P.]

Everything was fine today, flying high, when all of a sudden no rev upon laying on the gas pedal. Rigged a make-shift to keep the throttle open slightly and "turtled" my way home in first gear.

The problem is with what appears to be a small "swivel bolt", that attaches to a moving "bar" around the transmission. This "bar" (looks like a protozoa to me) attaches directly to the cable that goes to the engine compartment carburetors. Can I use a store bought bolt as a substitute here? Any ideas? I looked here at the Pelican Part list and could not find the "bolt" nor a picture of the linkage??


Thanks in advance


69 911 "Little Bull"

[Early_S_Man]

There is a stud mounted to the driver's side of the transaxle. Two #15 plastic bushings, #14 bellcrank, #16 washer and #17 cotter key all are mounted on that stud! The throttle rod's #11 ball-socket end snaps onto the inboard side of the bellcrank. The #18 throttle rod to the engine slips over the outboard arm of the bellcrank.

Now, do you suppose it would be possible to describe your problem in terminology that someone other than Beavis or Butthead might comprehend?

[CamB]

Geeez thats harsh. You could have put a gun to my head and I couldn't have correctly identified #14 as a "bellcrank". Technical terminology isn't my strong point either

I am also happy to further demonstrate my ignorance by saying that Pelican sells most of the bits here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/por_911M_pedals_main.htm

...but that I don't know if later model parts fit a '69 (because of the change in transmission).

[H.G.P.]

I cannot find a picture in my Haynes, but from the diagram the "swivel bolt" attaches to a part that looks very similar to #18 in the diagram.

I have what appears to be what's left of the swivel bolt, and part of it fits into part #18 (what appears as part 18). "My 18" is ok, its the small "bolt" that attaches it to "#14".

Maybe it's part 15?? My #18 "rests" into the "swivel bolt" part 15 ???.

My "#18" then goes directly into the engine compartment, and hooks up to the carbs.

So in other words I'd like to replace the "connector to" #18! Hardware store part, as a temporary fix?



Thanks Warren


69 911 "Little Bull"

[H.G.P.]

The arm on my "#14" is intact, but the "swivel bolt" that slipped into it is what I think I need. Now there is just a small hole in the "bell crank arm???" where the swivel bolt once was.


Thanks;



69 911 "Little Bull"

[H.G.P.]

Furthermore, having never seen this "swivel bolt" before, I cannot even tell if it's broken or not!

It has a small hollow indentation on the end where it appears to attach to the "bell housing".


69 911 "Little Bull"

[H.G.P.]

OK. I thinks its the "outboard arm" on the bell crank. All there is now is a hole where it once was. Is this replaceable, or was this orginally a permanent part of #14? Do I have to replace the whole bell arm, or can I slide a bolt through there and attached it to the throttle rod?




69 911 "Little Bull"

[Jim Sims]

You'll need an entire bell crank (#14); it is all one piece. While you're in there I'd recommend replacing the two plastic bushings (#15). Cheers, Jim

[H.G.P.]

Thanks Jim, Warren, CAM B.

(Two last questions

1. When pressing on the gas does the outboard arm slide up and down on the throttle rod, in normal operation? Or does the throttle rod, just rotate in the arm?

2. And does number #14 come as an entire unit (both ends), or when the cotter pin is removed only one arm comes off?



69 911 "Little Bull"

[Early_S_Man]

1. When all of the throttle linkage is assembled and properly adjusted ... there should ce no more than 1 mm slack end-to-end from pedal to bellcrank on the intake manifold (carbureted) or throttle body for MFI systems. The long 'P-shaped' opening formed when the transaxle end of that throttle rod was brazed together is for installation purposes only -- the very end with the semi-circle is the 'working' part and stays in close contact with the matching groove in the outboard arm stud.

2. The two arms of the #14 bellcrank are resistance welded to the tube. The ball-end stud and grooved stud are peened into locating holes on the arms. On cars with looseness in the throttle linkage and peened studs that are loose but still serviceable -- meaning acceptable fit to the ball-socker end and throttle rod -- I have nickel-silver brazed those studs in place, and several years of trouble-free operation was observed.

[H.G.P.]

Thanks Warren. Very informative. Yes, I can see right through the hole in the arm.

I had the car up this evening, What surprises me is that the "semi-circle" part remained on the rod. So I'm holding that part in my hand right now and there seems to be about 2mm or so of stud left on it's end. This circular part that goes on the rod looks ok.

I'll check around on obtaining a complete new #14.

( Things look like they need to be spray cleaned and properly lubricated under there, and I'm wondering whether the throttle rod end ought to be cleaned also.)




69 911 "Little Bull"

[Joe911]

HGP ? I have also had to do major rebuilding of my throttle linkage at the transmission.

The throttle rod (#18) had nearly worn through and I brazed it up and filed it down to size. Also the grooved ball end stud on the bell crank (#14) had worn smaller so I may have left the throttle rod slightly larger than original. Actually I may also have brazed and filed the grooved ball stud as will ? it has been about a year and my memory is failing.

I was able to purchase a new ball end stud (for the connection with the cable from the pedal) from Stoddard Porsche (1-800-342-1414) - also via the web. Pelican does not list all these little parts but may have them, so call them first as the are our host. Do invest in Stoddard?s parts catalog so you will have all the Porsche part numbers and they do support the early 911 quite well for the weird little pieces you need.