Front suspension Goof up?

[78SCRSMAN]

I just need some sound advice as I have no real world experience with my front suspension setup.
The issue is this: I have Boge front strut housings that have been modified (raised spindles) I'm using Bilstein inserts. With the insert installed (bottomed in the housing) the retaining nut only threads in about half way. In other words, half of the threads can be seen and the other half are threaded into the strut housing. Somehow I must have cut the housings about 5mm too short.
My question is, will this be acceptable in the long run? The nut tightens down just fine and seems ok with only the 2 or 3 threads that are engaged.
The only fix for this would be to cut the strut housing and weld in a small ring to lengthen it.
So whatcha think?

Preferably, I would like to hear from someone with some experience.

One other issue is the mono balls I have (I believe the mounting plates are offset for more negative camber) won't allow enough clearance for the dust cover. Is it acceptable to leave these off?

Sorry, the photo is upside down... how does this keep happening???

[rennworks]

Take a very close look in the bottom of the the strut housing and see if there is a thin spacer ring down there. I have seen them on some of the boge housings. Yes, you can run them without the dust covers.
Warren

[78SCRSMAN]

Thanks Warren,
No spacer ring unless I just can't see it but I farted around with it some more and was able to gain another thread on it so now I have only 1/3 of the threads showing. I took some measurements and it seems I'm at the limit as far as depth goes (heard that before)! There are five full threads on the nut and I have only 2 showing now so I think I'm OK?

[19-911-65]

I just installed a set of Bilsteins this week. The spacer ring looks like these. It will hold the shock about 7.35mm +/- up from the bottom of the strut tube. The total depth of the ring is 8.55mm and it is beveled top & bottom.

When I installed them it held the shock up 2mm too high. I took a coat hanger (as a feeler gauge) and turned a 90 deg. bend on it about a 1/4" long and then hammered the coat-hanger flat. The ring was sitting in the bottom of the tube and the shock was still 2mm high.

There was some rust in the bottom of the strut tube so I acid washed it out and ended up grinding down the circumference of the spacer ring. I ended up placing two 1/2" ID galvanized fender washers in the bottom of the strut tube and torqued them down.

Torque spec calls for 95 ft. lbs +/- 7 lbs. I used "never seize" on the threads and subtracted 10% and torqued at 85 lbs.

The threaded ring kissed down on the top of the strut tube.

My guess is that it will will be very hard to torque the ring to spec with only 2-3 treads engaged??

Best of luck!

Glenn

[Chuck Moreland]

Originally Posted by 78SCRSMAN

The issue is this: I have Boge front strut housings that have been modified (raised spindles) I'm using Bilstein inserts.

Likely, herein lies your problem.

How much did you raise the spindles?

Following your answer I will explain my question, and the likely problem.

[78SCRSMAN]

Originally Posted by Chuck Moreland

Likely, herein lies your problem.

How much did you raise the spindles?

Following your answer I will explain my question, and the likely problem.

IIRC it was 25mm. I first made the cut at the top, removing about a 21mm section of tubing... 2mm for the blade thickness on each cut = 4mm + 21mm section = 25mm of material removed. Also I did only one first so I could be sure the end result was the same length as the original... dammit! I think I just realized what the problem is! It's because the taper is now higher at the bottom isn't it?
If that's the case, how do I deal with that?

[Chuck Moreland]

Originally Posted by 78SCRSMAN

I think I just realized what the problem is! It's because the taper is now higher at the bottom isn't it?

Yes, that is the problem. If you inspect your insert you will find they also have a taper.

You raised the spindles (and taper in the strut housing) too much, and it is now hitting the taper on the insert and preventing the insert from fully seating.

Originally Posted by 78SCRSMAN

I think I just realized what the problem is! It's because the taper is now higher at the bottom isn't it?
If that's the case, how do I deal with that?

Depending on how much thread engagement you have, you may be okay. Hard to image 3 threads tearing out at that diameter.

You may also find the insert gets wedged into the strut such that it is hard to remove. You now have the two tapers interfacing under the force of the gland nut, and they shouldn't be.


We perform the raised spindle modification on the boge straights and normally we don't go above 19mm. We could probably get away with 21 or 22 mm, but I think you exceeded the limit.

[78SCRSMAN]

Originally Posted by Chuck Moreland

Yes, that is the problem. If you inspect your insert you will find they also have a taper.

You raised the spindles (and taper in the strut housing) too much, and it is now hitting the taper on the insert and preventing the insert from fully seating.




Depending on how much thread engagement you have, you may be okay. Hard to image 3 threads tearing out at that diameter.

You may also find the insert gets wedged into the strut such that it is hard to remove. You now have the two tapers interfacing under the force of the gland nut, and they shouldn't be.


We perform the raised spindle modification on the boge straights and normally we don't go above 19mm. We could probably get away with 21 or 22 mm, but I think you exceeded the limit.

Yes, I just went out and measured... Dammit! I think the best thing for me to do is install the spacer pictured above and cut the top of the strut and weld in a 7mm or so ring and re-paint. This won't be the first time I had to re-do something on this project so here we go again.
Anyone have some of those spacers laying around they don't mind parting with?

Thank you Chuck for your insight. I think had I had the inserts in front of me when I did this, I might have avoided this issue... Ok, maybe not. The koni inserts I removed were straight so I just assumed... What do ya do?

[78SCRSMAN]

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[78SCRSMAN]

Well I got to the bottom of this issue so-to-speak. I removed the insert which came out fairly easily and found some marks on the paint from apparent binding but not where I expected. The marks were at the part of the strut where the spindle was welded on. I had read about this issue in a previous thread sooo... I sanded some of the paint off in that spot on the insert to see if I could gain anything there, still the same depth as before. Then the light went off/on?... I dropped a large washer down the strut tube to see if the insert would reach it. YES, the insert was raised up the exact thickness of the washer plus the taper amount on the bottom of the insert. So that means the insert is bottoming in the strut and I simply must have cut them a tad short! Not a huge deal. Like Chuck said, the threads are VERY unlikely to tear out at that diameter. The nut torques down just fine so all is well. Lesson learned!
Moral is: it's easier to install a shim if the tube is too long but not a lot can be done if cut to short... duh!

Again, thanks Chuck and Pelican