Preferred Brake fluid

[mowog63]

Hi All,

Two Brake Fluid questions:

- Whats is the recommended shelf life of a can of unopened brake fluid?
I have a can of Ate Type 200 brake fluid that I did not use/open on the shelf for at least ten years, I'm wondering if I should toss it or use it?

- What is the general population's opinions on brake fluid to use?
I was going to buy more Ate to flush/bleed the brakes on my 85 Carrera, but I'd like to hear opinions.

Thanks!
Erik.

[RSTarga]

ATE is all I use. I would think that if the inner seal on the can is still in place it's ok, but why risk it for 20 bucks.

[cashman]

Not sure about shelf life but I would think its fine.

ATE is fine for every day use and track use.
I use Motul 600 (little higher temp than Ate) because by local track is really hard on brakes and doesn't have a lot of cool down time in-between braking zones.

[GT2BH]

I just bought the original Porsche Dot4 fluid. Thats what I run on my GT2 with no problems.

[NY65912]

Brake fluid is hygroscopic. I was told it can pull water from the air through the container itself, plastic. Not sure about a metal container. I was advised of this and tossed 2 qts of AP Racing 600 which had sat on a shelf for three years. I don't take chances with brake fluid.

[SilberUrS6]

Originally Posted by NY65912

I was told it can pull water from the air through the container itself, plastic.

Maybe if it sat on the shelf for decades.

And no, it will not pull moisture through a metal container.

As an example, I have a plastic container of lye. Sodium hydroxide. It is so much more hydroscopic than brake fluid, comparing the two is almost silly.

It is still in the very same condition it was when I bought it. Twenty years ago.

[NY65912]

Brake Fluid

Toward the bottom of the 5th paragraph down. I was told this by my wrench who is heavy into club racing and race car prep. Just sayin.

[SilberUrS6]

Originally Posted by NY65912

Brake Fluid

Toward the bottom of the 5th paragraph down. I was told this by my wrench who is heavy into club racing and race car prep. Just sayin.

Yeah. Lore is often repeated as truth, even among those who are considered "experts".

The transmission of water through a plastic bottle is so slow as to be insignificant. The fact that plastic itself and plasticizers are hydrophobic should give some folks pause to repeat stuff that is ridiculous on the face of it.

I would be more worried about oxidative and UV breakdown than water absorption.

[afterburn 549]

Silicone dot 5 is hard to bleed and will always give you soft peddle .

[Walt Fricke]

Anyone ever used one of those testers which show the water content of brake fluid? It would be interesting to know what one of those showed on old, sealed fluid vs a can partly used and then capped, vs fluid of various ages from the MC reservoir.

Or don't those really work that well?

[Walt Fricke]

Also, my favorite has been Castrol SRF for a street driven plus track driven car. Highest wet boiling temperature around. The downside is that it comes in a liter can, and you only need half a liter per fluid change. What to do with the rest of the fluid? Stuff is rather expensive.

My experience from instructing is that the ATE blue/yellow is not quite up to the demands of a race track if the car is driven hard. At least sometimes it is not, so I tend to suggest something with a higher boiling point. Though for a street only car the ATE is just fine.

[Jack Stands]

We used to use Ford Heavy Duty truck brake fluid in an IMSA RS Mazda years ago. High dry boiling point, and we bled it after every race weekend. Castrol LMA seems to work fine for my street cars, but I think the most important thing is to regularly change the brake fluid and not let it sit forever.

[CCM911]

I just ordered a fresh can of ATE from our host. I have been using it for years. You'll be fine as long as you go with a decent fluid.

As for an originally sealed can allowing water to pass through.....well, that just doesn't even make sense. Careful of what you read on the internet, LOL.