Bilstein Frt Strut Replacement Issues & Questions
 

Hi Guys-

After reading many PP posts on front suspension upgrades.. started and started my winter project.. sway bar bushings, control arm bushings (ER -OEM rubber kit ordered through or host) ball joints and new strut cartridges.

Won't go through the all the time and effort required to get the ****** BJ nuts off.. because there many GREAT POSTS AND THREADS already on this (one came off after several minutes with the torch and big pipe wrench.. but the other one had to be cut off with Dremel cut off discs) Of course same deal with the treaded "pins" that fasten the BJ to strut. (one popped right out with punch.. but the other one required grinding off the non-threaded end with Dremel and then it banged out with a few wacks)

So... anyway after that.. I expected the strut removal would be easier/quicker - but off to bad start!! I could not get the roll pin out (SEE PHOTO 1) ... BUT I did not have the perfect sized punch (in the next few days will pick up the Sears 43167 roll pin punch set - that has ben mentioned in many posts- but I did not know about until tonight!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358141109.jpg

So here's my first question
I assume the pin locks the lower struct shaft via this groove?? (SEE PHOTO #2) I would have thought there was a hole in the shaft.. but the groove concept is waat was used on BJ so guess it makes sense?? OR did I get order the wrong catridge??
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358141867.jpg

Did brakes last winter (new rotors/pads + 4 caliper rebuilds at Goldline and turbo tie-rods) and didn't see any sense in draining brakes disconnecting tie rods and removing wheel assbly... but the with BJ's + control arms off and top strut nut removed the only thing supporting wheel assbly is tie rods to steering rack .

So here's my second question
The wheel assbly is supported (SEE PHOTOS 3-4) but there's been alot of front to back movement... is it possible to damage the steering rack or tie rod???

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358143295.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1358143379.jpg

JT

1. the roll pin doesn't go in a hole, it nestles in the skinny part of the shaft so it can't move up or down.

2. i'd check if the tie rod boot got ripped from being at that angle

Hate to say it but this job would be much easier if you were to detach the tie rod, brake caliper and associated pad wear sensor wires, remove the rotor, and get the whole assembly on the benchtop.

For anybody reading the posts....the Sears Roll Pin Puch Set worked GREAT!!
A MUST HAVE to get out roll pins in my opinion. Called 5 Sears Harware stores near my house...all sold out. Finally found a store 45 min away had 1 set left.

Couple wacks and stuck pin came right out and other strut pin took only like 5 minutes.

FYI -unlike standard punches there's a little nub on the end of the punch that fits into the center (ID)
Will take a pic and post.

New strut cartridges in.... BJ's and control arm bushings next!
JTT

Good news and good work! Post some more pics and keep on working away at it. I spent a few hours in the garage yesterday and it cold out there. Stay warm and safe.