Replacing suspension pan difficulty

[sojahseh]

I just discovered my driver side torsion bar forward mount is basically floating in mid air.

On a scale from 1-10, 1 being a brake job, and 10 being an engine rebuild, how hard is it to replace my badly corroded front suspension pan?

I have a heated space, plenty of tools, a lift, heat, welders, a little bit of skill, a little bravery, and extra hands if I need them.

Doable?

[Porboynz]

This was the first job I had to do on my 911 within weeks of taking ownership for similar reasons. I would rate it reasonably easy using the tools you describe. Get the front tank support and suspension pan sheet metal and cut the rusted section out to suit. Careful triangulated measuring when refitting will help, all the factory measurements are available. I used the same tools you describe (non heated garage though) and when I did a full resto 15 years later I was very happy to discover the front torsion bar mounts were exactly aligned when the body was put on a proper Celette jig. OK I admit they were both about 4mm high, but fore and aft and left right was spot on. Go for it, great way to bond with your Porsche. Maybe the rust is confined to just that mount (battery acid damage) in which case you can cut back to good metal and save a bunch of work.

[Rich Lambert]

On a scale of 1-10, I'd give it a 5 for difficulty and 2 for fun...it is not fun.

Here's my take on it...Another suspension pan replacement post

[sojahseh]

Originally Posted by Rich Lambert

On a scale of 1-10, I'd give it a 5 for difficulty and 2 for fun...it is not fun.

Here's my take on it...Another suspension pan replacement post

2 for fun!? Thats too bad.

Thanks for your input.

[sojahseh]

Originally Posted by Porboynz

This was the first job I had to do on my 911 within weeks of taking ownership for similar reasons. I would rate it reasonably easy using the tools you describe. Get the front tank support and suspension pan sheet metal and cut the rusted section out to suit. Careful triangulated measuring when refitting will help, all the factory measurements are available. I used the same tools you describe (non heated garage though) and when I did a full resto 15 years later I was very happy to discover the front torsion bar mounts were exactly aligned when the body was put on a proper Celette jig. OK I admit they were both about 4mm high, but fore and aft and left right was spot on. Go for it, great way to bond with your Porsche. Maybe the rust is confined to just that mount (battery acid damage) in which case you can cut back to good metal and save a bunch of work.

Just out of curiosity, how long did the job take? Which replacement pan did you use? At first glance, mine looks pretty bad, I was mentally planning on doing the whole pan, and not just the drivers corner.

[roblav]

I've done this three or four times. I would not necessarily call it "fun". Restoration Design pieces. There are at least two pieces, but last I looked they come in a package. You may run into rust in the sidepanels of the chassis as well and have to repair them, and/or the battery box. A MIG (or TIG) is probably a good idea. You might be able to spot weld in a few areas.

[tobluforu]

I'm about to have this done, but no way in hell I can do it. If you go the RD route, be prepared to wait, pelican states it will take at least two weeks, with some waiting much longer then that. If you can't wait, stoddard seems to be the next choice, Dansk is very pricey.
roblav, come on down to chicago and do mine.

[sojahseh]

Originally Posted by roblav

I've done this three or four times. I would not necessarily call it "fun". Restoration Design pieces. There are at least two pieces, but last I looked they come in a package. You may run into rust in the sidepanels of the chassis as well and have to repair them, and/or the battery box. A MIG (or TIG) is probably a good idea. You might be able to spot weld in a few areas.

I'll definitely have to to a battery box, and the side panel that sits in front of the battery. There's a pretty large hole in the car there. I have an adequate welder, and access to a spot welder.

Anyone ever use Chemweld for this repair? I wouldn't to it without welding, but people claim it can take the place of welding.

[Porboynz]

I used Dansk panels, fitted fine. Chemweld? Surely you jest? MIG or TIG, nothing else.

[sojahseh]

Originally Posted by Porboynz

I used Dansk panels, fitted fine. Chemweld? Surely you jest? MIG or TIG, nothing else.

Mostly in jest, I admit. I was thinking more along the lines of using it along with MIG/TIG for good measure.

[Porboynz]

Fix the new panels in place with self tapping screws while you check the alignment, then tack weld, then fully weld, job done. I chose to do an overlap weld at the box sections for maximum strength and a butt weld elsewhere. (example front panel behind bumper) Depending on your welding skill a little tidying up with an angle grinder then coats of underseal and all set for fun. Plenty of tectyl in the cavity should ensure that repair outlasts me.

[Willem Fick]

Originally Posted by tobluforu

I'm about to have this done, but no way in hell I can do it. If you go the RD route, be prepared to wait, pelican states it will take at least two weeks, with some waiting much longer then that. If you can't wait, stoddard seems to be the next choice, Dansk is very pricey.

I ordered mine from Restoration Design recently. The order was processed very quickly, and the quality of the parts is excellent. They (RD) changed hands recently, and where with the previous owner you needed time and patience, they are really a pleasure to deal with these days.

[tobluforu]

Originally Posted by Willem Fick

I ordered mine from Restoration Design recently. The order was processed very quickly, and the quality of the parts is excellent. They (RD) changed hands recently, and where with the previous owner you needed time and patience, they are really a pleasure to deal with these days.

Thats great to hear, did you order from them or did you get it from pelican. and how long did it take? I have read many posts and from what I gather, their parts fit the best.

[Willem Fick]

Originally Posted by tobluforu

Thats great to hear, did you order from them or did you get it from pelican. and how long did it take? I have read many posts and from what I gather, their parts fit the best.

I was placing a consolidated order on behalf of a number of people here in South Africa and for that reason chose to deal directly with Restoration Design. I confirmed my order late on the Friday afternoon (Canadian time), and it was shipped by early morning (again Canadian time) the Monday. As the parts were delivered to me in South Africa your experience should be much different to mine ito overall delivery lead times.

As for the parts themselves:

I essentially brought an entire front clip for my car. The suspension pan, gas tank support and a few other parts were all made by RD, wheras the rest were a mix of Porsche Genuine and Dansk parts (sourced through RD).

Their parts don't have to stand back one bit to even the Porsche parts when it comes to quality, and if anything they greatly surpassed my expectations. The RD parts came unpainted, but as they are made from galvanised steel they were completely unblemished, and looked as if they were made on the day I got them.

[tobluforu]

Originally Posted by Willem Fick

I was placing a consolidated order on behalf of a number of people here in South Africa and for that reason chose to deal directly with Restoration Design. I confirmed my order late on the Friday afternoon (Canadian time), and it was shipped by early morning (again Canadian time) the Monday. As the parts were delivered to me in South Africa your experience should be much different to mine ito overall delivery lead times.

As for the parts themselves:

I essentially brought an entire front clip for my car. The suspension pan, gas tank support and a few other parts were all made by RD, wheras the rest were a mix of Porsche Genuine and Dansk parts (sourced through RD).

Their parts don't have to stand back one bit to even the Porsche parts when it comes to quality, and if anything they greatly surpassed my expectations. The RD parts came unpainted, but as they are made from galvanised steel they were completely unblemished, and looked as if they were made on the day I got them.

Just what I wanted to hear as I was just about to place an order with stoddards, which I hear is great, but it seems people who have used RD's products always rave about the fit. Placing order now. Thanks.

[jpnovak]

To me it was more difficult to drop the suspension due to rusty bolts than it was to cut the pan out and weld a new one in. I have done 4 or 5. Very straight forward. the pan basically aligns itself if you are careful with the removal.

Careful with cutting the rear facing edge. Make sure its clean and straight. I like to cut so that there is about 1/2 overlap. Then after I tack the front and sides of the pan make the final cut for a very tight butt weld.

for rust repair it is one of the easiest projects.

Now, if the rust has migrated into the inner fender well or into the lateral tank supports you will have a MUCH more difficult time. Especially since the inner fender well sections are not reproduced and the lateral tank supports are expensive.

[E Sully]

I bought my RD panel through Pelican. It fit well and came with the reinforcement pieces for the suspension mounts. The main thing to consider is how much total rust you will run into. I replaced both battery boxes, along with the front passenger side corner bracket. Once you strip away the paint on what looks like fairly solid metal, a lot more rust shows up. Lateral gas tank supports tend to have a lot of thin rusty metal also. When trying to weld in the new solid section, frequently you will find the old metal will evaporate since it is thin from rust.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/724391-miles-go-before-i-sleep.html

[sojahseh]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

To me it was more difficult to drop the suspension due to rusty bolts than it was to cut the pan out and weld a new one in. I have done 4 or 5. Very straight forward. the pan basically aligns itself if you are careful with the removal.

Careful with cutting the rear facing edge. Make sure its clean and straight. I like to cut so that there is about 1/2 overlap. Then after I tack the front and sides of the pan make the final cut for a very tight butt weld.

for rust repair it is one of the easiest projects.

Now, if the rust has migrated into the inner fender well or into the lateral tank supports you will have a MUCH more difficult time. Especially since the inner fender well sections are not reproduced and the lateral tank supports are expensive.

I'm getting pretty anxious to get the car up in the air and look at the extent of the damage. It's difficult to assess while on a jack.

I'll post some pics as soon as I can get my lift freed up.

[jass]

Another tool you will find very useful is a small pneumatic cutter wheel, and be very careful when cutting near the sides as there are portions of the lateral tank supports that protrude into the tank support. I recommend to start your cuts out maybe 2-3" from the side and work your way over to ensure you do not damage the side lateral tank supports

[sojahseh]

Ok, so after getting the car up on the lift, pulling the tank, and cleaning up around the area, here's what I see.

How much trouble am I in here?