What's your experience/opinion of Metal-to Metal body filler?

[sballard]

From what I read, it is a good non-toxic substitute for lead. What is your experience and/or opinion about when it should be used and not used? How thick should it be layered? Is it compatible with more conventional fillers?

[tharbert]

I was intrigued by your question... This came up in a Google search. They don't seem too enamored with the stuff.

[chris_seven]

It all depends what you are trying to do with the filler.

Most polyester fillers are relatively soft and easy to work but not so stable.

We have used UPol D in some specific areas as a lead substitue for about 10 years now and had good success.

Some of the comments about it cracking are hard to understand as we have never had any problems of this type.

We started using it when we saw one of the UK's leading Jaguar restorers using it instead of lead loading.

His comments were that in critical areas where traditional lead needs a great deal of skill because of heat distortion that is was very useful.

We use it in selected areas of a 911 shell.

The early shells were used a lot of detailed fitting together in the factory and there is often a great deal of lead loading. When we strip shells by thermally processing (400 degC) and then acid dipping (phosphoric/citric) the lead runs out and needs replacing.

We use UPol D in these areas and have never had problems.

We also use it when we fit RS style flares to narrow bodied cars and we have vener had any cracking issues in these areas.

I wouldn't use it as a general filler as it is a real pain to flat but is is useful in these critical areas.

[Bob Kontak]

I used All Metal on my 69 AMX I restored back in the 70's.

I saw it at a car show 15 years later with the paint job I put on it and the rear quarters were fine where the bulk of the work was done.

It was a bee-otch to work and I am not sure that a regular quality bondo would have performed any differently given the work I put into the sub structure, meaning it was strong and sealed from the backside.

[jpnovak]

I used All Metal to repair the leaded section at the rocker/QP/latch panel intersection When rust repair is done here the lead must be removed and replaced with something.

After 7 years there is no issues.

Yes, it is a pain to sand flat. I usually do a wet solvent sand with a little acetone to break the surface skin. Then it sands relatively easy after that.

My painter consultant recommends and only uses All Metal for his restorations.

[sballard]

Thanks for the link tharbert. That was useful. The specific product I am asking about is Eastwood's Metal-to-metal, but it sounds like it is pretty similar all metal.

Anyone else like to chime in on the pluses and minuses of this stuff?